UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Often used as a descent route but also worthwhile as a beginners' route. Start at the toe of the slab and ascend to its tip - not much gear. A couple of short awkward corners complete the route. The right edge is even easier. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop et al early 1910s.

Ticklists

Stanage; Diffs on the cliffs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Stanage Popular Greens , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage 'Difficults' , Graham Hoey’s Best Peak District Gritstone Routes for Beginners , Pre-WW1 Stanage , Stanage Mods for 'Soloing'

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ola Czerwiakowska 15 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Horrible route. Shouldn\'t be classed as beginners as it doesn\'t teach anything. Bottom slab part is a great boulder and should finish there. Top part not protected, again doesn\'t teach beginners anything.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Horrible route. Shouldn't be classed as beginners as it doesn't teach anything. Bottom slab part is a great boulder and should finish there. Top part not protected, again doesn't teach beginners anything.
Rhys.allen17 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Good beginner climb, always take people new to trad up this. Try to use this as a route to show gear placements, albeit not a huge range of options. 2 cams on the slab, 1 nut just past the ledge and another larger cam further up. Also not the easiest to build an anchor at the top!
Show beta
βeta: Good beginner climb, always take people new to trad up this. Try to use this as a route to show gear placements, albeit not a huge range of options. 2 cams on the slab, 1 nut just past the ledge and another larger cam further up. Also not the easiest to build an anchor at the top!
Jgaskell27 26 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route, pretty poor gear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun route, pretty poor gear
Queen of the Traverse 6 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Getting off the ledge halfway up via the corner is pretty bold for the non-lanky-man-sized - looked like a step up onto the face from top of the boulder behind, but a big step up and unprotected! (If there is gear I couldn't reach it). Cheated and went up on the left but no way that move was Mod - would even question that one move being Diff.
Show beta
βeta: Getting off the ledge halfway up via the corner is pretty bold for the non-lanky-man-sized - looked like a step up onto the face from top of the boulder behind, but a big step up and unprotected! (If there is gear I couldn't reach it). Cheated and went up on the left but no way that move was Mod - would even question that one move being Diff.
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Descent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent
springfall2008 24 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: One slightly tricker move off the ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One slightly tricker move off the ledge
Lancs Lad 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 2 * Easy Diff, nice ramble up easy rock, protectable where needed, easy solo tho
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 * Easy Diff, nice ramble up easy rock, protectable where needed, easy solo tho
Richard Hession 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice cave 2/3 of the way up for a bivi :P
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice cave 2/3 of the way up for a bivi :P
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This was my firs tever climb outdoors, its more of a mod as people say. I used it as a descent at stanage today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my firs tever climb outdoors, its more of a mod as people say. I used it as a descent at stanage today.
Dominion 13 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a cakewalk, and definitely more of a Mod than a Diff, didn't bother with a rope or pro for my 2nd gritstone "lead"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a cakewalk, and definitely more of a Mod than a Diff, didn't bother with a rope or pro for my 2nd gritstone "lead"
Simon Caldwell 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very hard to protect so could be quite scary as a first lead. But then again, if Black Hawk Right Hand is Diff, this is surely only Mod?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very hard to protect so could be quite scary as a first lead. But then again, if Black Hawk Right Hand is Diff, this is surely only Mod?!

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