South Yorkshire > Burbage South Quarries >
 
Millwheel Wall*** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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Cartwheel Wall >>
[Wayne, eases through Millwheel Wall, 1 kb]12m. The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds, the odd tiny runner and a brisk mantelshelf finish. Stake belay. © ROCKFAX
FA. Len Millsom solo 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

Photo: Wayne, eases through Millwheel Wall © sasmojo
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

WillDoyle - Solo - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/14

Wet windy morning which turned to rain. Rock face was wet to touch and just got worse as the morning went on, however Dean took first go and lead the route clean on sight. I took second go and took the route clean.Gear placements are good as we re climbed it on top rope and placed gear to check ready for the lead when its dry.
ffdalton - TR β - 18/Mar/14 with Dean Dalton

more than a decade after the first time I soloed it just as good!
Jus - Solo - 05/Oct/13

feilx - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Chris Froud

feilx - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Chris Froud

Hidden - Solo - Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/13

Dom Cordner - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Sam Wimpenny

Hidden - 2013

Dom Cordiner
SamWimpenny - Lead - 2013

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/12

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/12 with Jake Shaw

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Fragmod - TR - 25/Jun/12

Coel Hellier - Lead - 25/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Anna

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Rachel

al123 - Solo rpt - 16/Jun/11

Not totally impressed with the gear. Small but generally positive holds.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

Pythonist - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/11

Harder again!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Graham Parkes

Tamati - 2nd O/S - May/11

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 26/Apr/11 with Will Ward

lovely climbing
tuftynick - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/11 with rich cross

Easy but scary. Good climb.
aretherenoneleft - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Henry Jepson

Felt pretty serious but I can't imagine it'd be any less serious with a rope dangling between your legs! Thin, sustained and excellent.
lrandall - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Rich Crag Rat

really fun, reminded me of a slate route.
al123 - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/11

henryjepson - Lead - Apr/11

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

richardashe - 2nd β - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/10

AdamjBailes - 2nd - 16/Sep/10

Finally led after years of being a blank gap in my hitlist. Not the most revisited spot Burbage Quarry! Anyway... Lead felt great, nerve jangly all the way, but with footholds and eventually handholds just about big enough to calm things. My gear eventually got pulled out sideways but there's enough up there to suffice when really needed
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/10

slacky - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Ben

jwpil - TR O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Gordon

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Pippa - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Jon

Pown - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10

LakesWinter - 2nd rpt - 11/Jul/10 with Angus

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/10

Classic
nathanlee - Solo O/S - 04/Jul/10

gordonday - TR rpt - 26/Jun/10 with clive

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Shaun

Managed it ground up after falling from well above the tiny gear, exciting!
LakesWinter - Lead β - 11/Jun/10 with gustav

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Matt G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/10

radioactivekid - 2nd dog - 23/May/10 with Kyya

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 20/May/10 with Jules

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 05/May/10 with D. Waters

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/May/10

Really nice!! much more positive crimps for hands and good foot holds than on first appearances from below. Thought the crux was the move up to the first gear slot but as the moves where on good crimps it didn't feel bold. The gear was better than expected (actually rather good) and not warn though I did have some pea nuts that may have helped? top cam slots where fine too.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 04/May/10 with Rob

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 04/May/10 with Graeme H

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - Solo rpt - 17/Apr/10

burto - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with fergus

Fergus Cuthill - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10

Pete Graham - Solo - 16/Apr/10

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Rozzy

Hidden - Lead β - 2010

Felt harder than when I used to solo it!
Chris Craggs - TR - 25/Sep/09

Good route. Gear (small nuts) is very poor and worn, I don't really think it would hold, particularly falling on to it from the right as you would. A WC zero 2 or similar tiny friend would be better, but my smallest (a zero 4) was way too big.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09

highrepute - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09

dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - Jun/09 with Matt S

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

PenJD - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Jim Walton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/09

Hardcore Pat - Lead β - 05/Apr/09 with Chris Vanderz

First route since Oct...
jameshall - 2nd - 21/Mar/09 with Tom Blond

Felt quite intense!
Sankey - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Luke

Really nice route, sustained thinness.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 03/Sep/08 with just me

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Agree that for an onsight solo this is an intense little number at E1
Tommy G - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Bri Mac

Glorious, balance start, balance middle to gear (small wires) then nice moves up to top. Well worth three stars.
Jim Walton - Lead - 09/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

joese7en - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

alaan - Solo O/S - 09/Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Nov/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/07 with dave johnson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/07

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/07

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Ellie Joyner

EllieJ - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Paul Phillips

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/07 with Sion

Rjukan - Oct/06 with Sam

Budge - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Ludovic Laurioux

fun little route
WB - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Jim

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Liam

Fantastic. My second route after moving to Sheffield.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Solo rpt - 08/May/05

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 26/May/04 with Rich Hatton

cem - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/03 with Neil Northrop

samwelli - TR O/S - 22/Jun/03 with Reuben Brown

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/03

Monk - Solo O/S - 2003

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/02

chris sm - 2nd - 27/Jul/02

Jus - Solo O/S - 2002

willackers - Solo O/S - 2002 with John Atkinson

Stece led on pre-placed gear
Siderunner - 2nd - 28/Jul/01 with Steve G

Soft touch
Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 01/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

The Pylon King - Lead - Apr/01 with sean dark matter

Hidden - Solo β - 08/May/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99 with Graham Hewitt

bigphil - Solo - 18/Mar/98

r0b - Solo O/S - 14/Aug/97

Hidden - Solo - May/97

Hidden - Solo - 13/Apr/97

top holds were damp, made mental note to stop soloing.
Dave Douglas - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/96

Laramadness - Solo - 08/Jul/96

robyn1 - 1996

leadmat - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Solo - 03/Sep/94

jamiev - Solo O/S - 14/May/94

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jul/92

Done immediately after I'd led it
Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - Jul/92

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 14/Jun/92 with Andy Watts

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/91

mark-abz - Solo - 31/Aug/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/91

Rich Kirby - Solo - 23/Apr/91

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/90

NickJH - Solo - Jun/90 with I Smith, D Townsend

beaumap - AltLd - Oct/89 with Bernie Green

Hidden - Solo - 19/May/89

Hidden - Solo - 13/May/89

babymoac - 2nd - 30/May/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/87

I remember meeting a guy called simon (I think he was very good) and I asked him to show me some problems. He said you should solo this (Millwheel wall) I promptly did and then he told me it was E1, I had only just started climbing E1. I rode my bike home elated after that I used to solo it twice or three times a visit just to get my 'head in' so I could scare myself to death on Pebble, above and beyond and the knock. I climbed it when my dad came to visit he didn't say a word to me for an hour after!
Nic_Sandy - Solo - Mar/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1987

Hidden - Solo - 13/Sep/86

Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/86

shark - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/86

Stoney Boy - Solo O/S - 1986

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 14/Jul/85

AlanLittle - Solo - 20/Apr/84

stp - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/84

Hammy - 2nd - 18/Apr/81 with Jonathon Stacey

Mark Kemball - Solo - 09/Jun/79

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/79

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/79

Andy Fielding - TR - 1979

Hidden - TR - 23/Sep/78

Great route. Subsequently soloed in my old school shoes carrying a rucksack and coiled rope - for some reason.
KRB - Solo O/S - 04/Aug/77

Hidden - TR - 18/Aug/76

andy gittins - 1972

mikej - TR - 01/Aug/71 with E

mikej - TR - 24/Apr/70 with Mike Browne

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, rurp, Hidden, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, Hidden, Marcusk, Ewano, Chris_barr, jeffsheard, Dan Lane, Jonathan Hall, catblack, Chi Cheng, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Pythonist

Voting
Total votes cast 102
hard E20 of 35
E20 of 35
easy E20 of 35
hard E114 of 35
E120 of 35
easy E11 of 35
hard HVS0 of 35
HVS0 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard 5c0 of 35
5c0 of 35
easy 5c0 of 35
hard 5b4 of 35
5b24 of 35
easy 5b7 of 35
hard 5a0 of 35
5a0 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
3 Stars20 of 32
2 Stars12 of 32
1 Star0 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Soloed56 of 175 (32.0%)
Lead62 of 175 (35.4%)
Followed29 of 175 (16.6%)
Toproped11 of 175 (6.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 175 (0.6%)
Unknown16 of 175 (9.1%)

'Climbed'72 of 175 (41.1%)
clean O/S85 of 175 (48.6%)
clean β6 of 175 (3.4%)
clean rpt10 of 175 (5.7%)
dogged1 of 175 (0.6%)
dnf1 of 175 (0.6%)