Sit Start 2 metres right of Garbage crack at a 2 ft long veritcal crack. With a foot on the rickety hold and a crimp either side of the crack, launch up to the water worn crimp and then the rougher hold (used on the traverse) above. From here make a very long reach to the chipped flat hold on bummel zug and then on to the shield.

Dooge warb, Franco 10/Nov/2008

Hidden 07/Dec/14 Sent O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Solo
Sam Marks 05/Sep/11 Sent x
Dave Warburton 24/May/09 Sent rpt

Hate the sharp sloper horror hold.

Dave Warburton 10/Nov/08 Sent x

A low 6a if you start slightly different and undercut the break. High 6a if you go straight up as it makes holding the sloper/crimp a tad harder. Upper section is balancy, either a 'pop' for the good hold or an intermediate 'pebble' can help.

Franco Cookson OLD 10/Nov/08 Sent

crimps in the break to intermediate crimp, then rough slopery crimp. Then a hugggge reach for flat hold.Awesome!

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Style of ascent
Not Set