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Directe 5a

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[Just in case you're not sure where the route starts ;-), 2 kb]500m, 13 pitches. 5a, 4a, 5a, 4a, 5a, 4a, 4a, 4a, 4b, 5a, 5a, 4a, 4c Over to the right of the Normal. Scramble up then follow the big corner for 4 pitches. Tricky move left onto the main slab and then head for the notch in the skyline in another 8 or so pitches. Was in the Schweiz Plaisir guide by Jurg von Kanel when we did it.
Gollut and Wattenhofer 1963

Photo: Just in case you're not sure where the route starts ;-) © paulerussell
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

mes32 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14

Wonderful day out; magnificent, varied crux pitches. 5c/D+
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/13 with Ellen B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/13

LardClimber - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

Wayne S - 2012 with Jon Croxford

guy757 - AltLd - 01/Sep/11 with John Frost

Frostie - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Guy Buckingham

Great route, but the squeeze on the third pitch of the chimney is harder than VS, especially with a rucsac on.
Andy Chubb - 2nd - 26/Aug/11 with Twid Turner

Sparse bolts, particularly on easy sections. Struggle up letter-box not so pleasant, excellent after that.
paulerussell - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Matia Mallia

unpleasant at letterbox section but comfortable after the first 3-4 pitches.Some of pitches are joined in one long one so now about 10 pitches normal size in total.long and tiring walk down the crag.polished.otherwise super.a set og nuts very comforting at the last 3-4 5a pitches but this depends on your confidense and the grade you climb comfortable.
matiamallia - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with paulerussell

Started trying Zygofolis, but the 5c+ pitch is REALLY hard. That scared us off so we traversed over to this route. Sadly it's basically fully equipped now. There are some long run outs between the bolts on the really easy bits but those are basically a walk. Shame, it would have been more interesting if it were trad :-( Amazing piece of rock though!
bigbobbyking - AltLd - 16/Jul/11 with Georg

abbeywall - AltLd - 11/Jul/11 with K

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10

Trobbo - 2nd - 31/Aug/09 with ali welsh/martin bennett

The Boite aux Lettres is harder than MVS would suggest, and was wet to boot! Nice climbing after that.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - Aug/01 with Zoe Wilkinson & Debbie Wilkinson

agagsgrot - Jul/97 with Chris

Excellent.
rogerskews - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/92 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
islandlynx, benclimbing, richardw87, Happy Haggis, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, Hidden, Bradders, Chris Sansum, Hidden, JamesM, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard 5c0 of 3
5c3 of 3
easy 5c0 of 3
hard 5a0 of 3
5a0 of 3
easy 5a0 of 3
hard 4c0 of 3
4c0 of 3
easy 4c0 of 3
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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