UKC

126m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is the most popular multi-pitch climb on Frontales, which gives good steep climbing and is fully bolted although not so much on the easy first pitch. Reach the start by scrambling up to the grassy bay above the path. Start at a left-leading ramp.

1) 3a, 25m. Follow the ramp easily leftwards to a belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up to a smooth wall. Climb its left-hand side and the ramp above to a belay.
3) 5c, 15m. Head up steeply to a stance and belay.
4) 6a, 16m. Climb the steep white wall to a belay.
5) 6a, 20m. Climb the wall with difficulty and continue to a belay and stance below the steep headwall.
6) 6a, 20m. Make an exciting traverse right to a belay.
7) 5b, 25m. Climb up right to a bolted stance.
8) 4c, 15m. Continue in the same line to a belay. You can abseil down Ebola from here or push on for the summit experience.
9) 3a, 15m. Climb easy but slightly loose ground to ledges © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50 , El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+ , El Chorro multipitch , The Big Easys , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , El Chorro: Best Routes (6a-6c+) , 'Chorro chums , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , El Chorro , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics , El Chorro Recommendations (6a-7b) , ROCKFAX El Chorro 2018: Top 50 , El Chorro Recommendations , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe)

Feedback

User Date Notes
VNT 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Watch out when approaching Amptrax, there is a new route on the right, which is "La Sonriso de Eva" (6b,6b+,6a,6c). This name is painted on the wall, so you should skip it and go left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out when approaching Amptrax, there is a new route on the right, which is "La Sonriso de Eva" (6b,6b+,6a,6c). This name is painted on the wall, so you should skip it and go left.
Kabanos 11 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Done this route again as we really liked it first time. Note: after research we found the extra bolts to the left of the 5B pitch (after traverse) are for the Amptrax extension called La Cojera de Luna, which is 3 pitch: 6B+ (35m), 6A+ (20m) and III (25m) - scramble. Done them on the next day where we connected Z Mapp, traverse from Amptrax but reverse direction and the mentioned Amptrax extension. It was very cool and exciting combination. Highly recommend to try :)
Show beta
βeta: Done this route again as we really liked it first time. Note: after research we found the extra bolts to the left of the 5B pitch (after traverse) are for the Amptrax extension called La Cojera de Luna, which is 3 pitch: 6B+ (35m), 6A+ (20m) and III (25m) - scramble. Done them on the next day where we connected Z Mapp, traverse from Amptrax but reverse direction and the mentioned Amptrax extension. It was very cool and exciting combination. Highly recommend to try :)
Bennyboy1233 31 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: bit polished for the first half, but the top pitches are excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bit polished for the first half, but the top pitches are excellent.
Quintinia 30 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The belay ledges are really small, more like hanging belays, so don't expect to stop for lunch halfway up the face.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay ledges are really small, more like hanging belays, so don't expect to stop for lunch halfway up the face.
MCDerbuss 19 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Take right line of bolts on the 5b pitch then it fits in with the other grades . First pitch is maybe a little harder than 5c but no harder than 6a(5c+?). Traverse is nowhere near 6a(easier). Polish is not that bad.
Show beta
βeta: Take right line of bolts on the 5b pitch then it fits in with the other grades . First pitch is maybe a little harder than 5c but no harder than 6a(5c+?). Traverse is nowhere near 6a(easier). Polish is not that bad.
LongBoiBetley 20 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is very polished but gets nicer on the pitches afterwards
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is very polished but gets nicer on the pitches afterwards
spannaclimbs 20 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Didn’t find any bolts on the first pitch but found belay point so started from pitch 2. Would say top 5b pitch harder than the 6a’s and this pitch had lots of bolts but no real direction. Other pitches all fairly well bolted.
Show beta
βeta: Didn’t find any bolts on the first pitch but found belay point so started from pitch 2. Would say top 5b pitch harder than the 6a’s and this pitch had lots of bolts but no real direction. Other pitches all fairly well bolted.
JohnH1977 8 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This is very hard and sustained for a 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is very hard and sustained for a 6a
ian hendy 4 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: High in grade. Worth it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: High in grade. Worth it!
Paul Sagar 6 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The pitch grades given here are quite misleading - a combination of polish, plus old-school grading, mean this ought not to be under-estimated. A sensible idea would be for parties to go in with the mindset for a 6b route, and calibrate accordingly.
Show beta
βeta: The pitch grades given here are quite misleading - a combination of polish, plus old-school grading, mean this ought not to be under-estimated. A sensible idea would be for parties to go in with the mindset for a 6b route, and calibrate accordingly.

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dedos Sangrientos

Grade: 6a ***
(Valle de Abdalajis)

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