Valentines Day*** 6a
[Nice 6A multi pitch climb, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great expedition with good climbing throughout.
1) 4, 40m. Follow the rounded buttress, corner and wall past a chain to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5+, 40m. Move up left and climb to a cactus and then follow the crack above to another good ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 25m. Climb steepening rock on good holds to a belay.
4) 5+, 25m. Climb on past the final bulges to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the line. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+.

Photo: Nice 6A multi pitch climb © dannygale
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This climb is in 226 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

potnoodle13 - AltLd - 09/Oct/15 with beagle-ears

potnoodle13 - Lead - 07/Oct/15 with beagle-ears

Lead p1 and p2. Bailed off knackered after p2
potnoodle13 - Lead - 04/Oct/15 with Hextoon, beagle-ears

Dan818 - Lead RP - 29/Apr/15 with Matthew Griffiths

jammy4536 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/15 with Viktoria Zekoll

Fantastic route with 4 good contrasting pitches, probably the best of the week. I led the two 5+ pitches, the first of which was soft, the second of which wasn't! I'd grade it 5, 5, 6a, 5+.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/15 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/15

Led pitches 2 and 4 (and the 2nd half of P1, coz we didn't read the route description and Pete stopped at the lower off chain). Great route.
Jamie Brown - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/15 with Pete Bradshaw

Echuum - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15

Led pitches 1 and 3. When pulling the rope through on 3rd belay station whilst abseiling down, rope got caught on a tree. Had to lead up 4 and untangle it. Very frustrating!
WilliamD - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/15

Led for last three pitches. Great climb!
Jamie Jacques - AltLd β - Apr/15

tallginge - Lead O/S - Apr/15 with pete

led p2, p3, p4. really enjoyable route, top three pitches are all ace. we were the first team on it so was a bit of a faff trying to ab down the line through the queue of people climbing up
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/15 with Sarah Roscoe

lead first pitch - 4+ second send/3rd/4th pitches - 5+, 6a, 5+
Sarah Roscoe - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/15 with Matt Harmon

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/15

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/15

Started on Nitti two pitches, the two pitches of this, Exciting.
phil456 - AltLd O/S - 2015 with Tom Ireson as guide

1st + 3rd pitches
madeleine - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/14 with Kieran

Kieran Duncan - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/14

madeleine - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/14 with Kieran

Lee_Meaden - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/14 with Alex Stuckey, James Laws, Kenny Brewster

First proper multi pitch. Not polished at all.
Shortarse.Crowley - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Justin Critchlow

willweatherburn - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14

Binned at the overhang on the 6a
matt10990 - Lead O/S - Apr/14

Missed pitch 1 as did Nitti instead, then continued up this. Nice route, really should have led some of it but not my day!
Danielle Arnott - 2nd - Apr/14 with Matt

meierdaniel - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14

TraverseKing - 14/Mar/14

quickdrawmcraw - AltLd - 13/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/14

Climbed first 2 pitches only as night had fallen. First move is tricky unless tree is used... Second pitch more slabby, moving up then across left to the ledge where ring is.
CTotten88 - Lead - Mar/14 with John Begley

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/14 with Kirsty Kerr

Great route. First pitch more like 5. Beware rock fall from climbers (abseilers) above, so best not hang around the bottom of the climb for too long.
kp64zl - AltLd O/S - Jan/14

Phraxcyst - 2014

Phraxcyst - 2014

Climbed 1st pitch only, 40 m, 4
PhilEQ - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/13 with Isabel

Fragmod - Lead - 09/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/13

Lead 1st and 4th pitch, Jorge lead 2nd pitch and David lead 3rd pitch
DanC1985 - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/13 with David, Jorge

Jordi - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/13 with David, Dani

beth.westonhoward - AltLd - Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Oct/13

Chomp - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/13 with Jo Morrison

2 pitches only.
bestofbritishjanet - 14/Oct/13

Dan818 - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/13 with Joanne scott

joscott - AltLd - Jul/13 with Daniel Longster

Lead first 3 pitches Roy did the last one
johnmctighe - Lead O/S - 20/May/13 with Roy

Hidden - AltLd rpt - May/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Meinertzhagen - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Christopher Lyus

very fun led all pitches, wind is crazy on it but the top is a lovely spot for lunch
CLyus - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Meinertzhagen

lead pitch 2 and 3
beakerburgess - AltLd - 01/Apr/13 with Zeanne Thomas, Andrew Clow, Jonny Webb

Fantastic last day of the holiday, lead pitch 1 and 3 before tying two ropes and abseiling back down in 2 stages
JonnyW - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Zeanne Thomas, Andrew Clow, Neil Burgess

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Braintax - AltLd O/S - Apr/13

Guy Wilson - Apr/13 with Plum, Dave Chapman

Quality route! Fantastic crux and position
partz - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Alex Wade

Alex Wade - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Matt Everett

lead first pitch only
Zara_92 - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Henry

Henry Brown - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Zara_92

Every pitch is excellent! p1 hard for grade but nice delicate moves. p2 is the best, thrilling safe F5 climbing. 6a pitch is steep compared to rest but very good, big holds and well bolted. Final pitch a touch runout and hard for grade but still excellent. 6 abseils to the bottom on 60m rope. Beware, p4 ab requires the full 60m! Ab from p1 stance can reach ledges to downclimb final 5m, however we abbed to chain midway on p1.
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/13 with Vienna

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Mar/13

Up to the first lower-off on P1 only.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/13 with Uncle Bill, Dad

Connorsgrandad - 2nd - 08/Mar/13 with Karl gregory

RD P1 and 3 (cold and blowy - 4 hours including five abseils)
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Sonya

Led pitch 2 and 4. Pitch 1 harder than a 4!
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Anyes Varenne

With Helen. Pitch 1 and 2.
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Helen Garrett

mattgrange - Lead - Mar/13

lead pitch 1 and 3, superbe day with Kim
anyes varenne - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with kim mulji

kitch22 - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with John Proctor

Tala M - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/13 with Mike Brookes

Abseiled by moonlight... awesome!!
tprebs - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Siobhan Vye

Pitch 1
MD - 2nd - 18/Feb/13 with Dangerous Dave

first pitch only . Brilliant climbing. Grade 4
quickdrawmcraw - 13/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/13

Peter Lovell - AltLd dog - 11/Feb/13

angie - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Peter Lovell

angie - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Peter Lovell

spacecadetjake - 04/Feb/13

Great route, better climbing than amptrax, the top 5+ pitch is consistently tricky and run out.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Becky Brown

Eireannach - 2nd O/S - Feb/13 with Niall Browne

Lead first pitch
Siobhan Vye - AltLd - Feb/13

KCheung - Lead dog - Feb/13 with Henry Jones

BeckyBrown1989 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/13 with Will Oates

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/13

First pitch only. Need to be on this route early, very popular!
Dave Pen - Lead - 2013

Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2013

KKilroy - Lead - 2013 with Emma Clarke

mol - Lead - 29/Dec/12 with Jesse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/12

Can abseil down on 70m rope. Great smoking area at the top. My lead: 1,3 John's Lead: 2,4
RyMole - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/12 with John Puddephatt

Led P2 & 4. Brills.
johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with Ryan Mole

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Nov/12

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/12

escostar - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/12

Ross led the first pitch (5+ not 4) and the third with style and enthusiasm, I did the second pitch and after the third pitch had a moment before my resolve returned. After shaking out at the belay started climbing the wonderfully exposed last pitch and haven't enjoyed a route that much this year! Fluttery wonderful climbing. Scary abseil from the top on a 60 though, beware! the first pitch of it is exactly have been warned!
Puckle - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/12

Johann - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Mette

Led Pitch 2, bailed with Nick at the top of 3 to avoid benightment
BenedictIEP - AltLd dnf - 10/Nov/12 with Rowan Leech, Nick Boone, James Pawson, Tom Hobbs

First two pitches only, 5 person ab descent!
thedatastream - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Nick Boone, Rowan Leech

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches did not do last pitch
fooforever - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/12

4 pitches have been subdivided into 6. Didn't realise this so abbed off after 4, not attempting final two (harder pitches).
cathymiller - Lead - 22/Oct/12 with pete archer

Led pitch 1, Mike led 2
runwildjohn - AltLd - 15/Oct/12 with Mike Silver

Pitches 1 and 2 only - Great climb.
stonemikey - AltLd - 15/Oct/12 with John Horton

Climbed in a trio - Konan led P1, Izzy P2, I combined P3 & P4. Excellent climbing, but lots of rope drag if you choose to combine the top two pitches. Great day out!
budchawla - AltLd - Oct/12 with Izzy, Konan

nadine72 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12

Lead pitches 1 and 3. seconded 2 and 4. Fantastic climbing throughout, though i would say that the 4th pitch is probably 6a and quite fluttery at that. We were also being circled by golden eagles which was amazing until i realized they were eyeing us up for lunch, then we made a hasty abseil back to the ground
OliBangbala - AltLd β - 06/Jun/12

Fine to ab on one 60 m rope. Short traverse from top of Nitti gives 2xF5+ instead of P1, seems like a good replacement. Didn't climb P1, led P2 and P4. P3 and P4 are great.
guhj - AltLd O/S - 30/May/12

nadine72 - 30/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/12

Pitches 2 + 3 only.
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/12 with Catrin Nichols

catrin289 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/12 with Liam Ingram

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with morgan trigg

ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Fayers

samfayers - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with sutty

a romantic outing :)
krasavenko - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/12 with Ally Rocke

Wouldn't recommend running the last two pitches together!
allyrocke - AltLd rpt - 12/Apr/12 with Liyen Nhuyen

AndyCook - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12

s.c.white - Lead - 07/Mar/12 with Lauren Wallis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

P1 and P3
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/12 with Benoit Dupasquier

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/12

Lead first pitch F4 Seconded second pitch F5+ Lead third pitch F6a Seconded forth pitch F5+
DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/12 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/12

james.pilbeam - Lead - 07/Feb/12

Gazleah - Lead O/S - Feb/12 with joey gilham

leglesslizard - AltLd O/S - Feb/12

Duz - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

first pitch
Rich Clague - Lead - 05/Jan/12

Tophe - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/12 with Martin Smith

3 long pitches - 40,40,50m. All good, though some loose rock at the top.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/12

tom.ireson - Lead rpt - 2012 with Charlotte Latter

Ace, don't run the last two pitches together. They add to 60m not 50.... Rope drag bad.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/11 with Chris White

1st pitch only.
jgustafsson - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/11 with Jen

bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/11 with Anna

P1 and P3, all pitches are great !! Is possible to abseil with 70m rope as halfway stations in longer pitches.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/11 with Sian Gardner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/11

Led 1+2 on a 100m rope, ace
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/11

mwatson - Lead O/S - Dec/11

Freshprintce - Lead β - Nov/11

paul horabin - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11

fi15 - AltLd - 28/Oct/11

First 3 Pitches
dannygale - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Chris, Will

Started chucking it down so decided to push on before it got "too wet" ran top two pitches together, good fun on wet limestone slabs with no quick draws left!
JRae - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Tom Pitchforth

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

only did the first 2 pitches then the rain came
charlietorrance - 2nd - 23/Apr/11

Gabi=1st pitch, mal=2nd, me=3rd,4th,5th
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Malwina, Mirithiar

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/11

Hidden - 25/Mar/11

pitch 1 tough for grade in middle by chain. pitch 2 an absolute dream,40 metres of perfect climbing at grade 5. pitch 3 great hand holds and bolts v.close at crux. sadly pitch 4 was a let down, tough climbing, sloping hand holds and bolts very spaced. worth having some trad for this pitch.
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Andy Philipson

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with carl manley

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/11

monika paprzycka - 28/Feb/11 with Jeremy Axford

tomhull - AltLd rpt - 22/Feb/11 with rin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/11

luda0801 - 2nd - Feb/11

Ollie Rattue - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Anna duckett - AltLd - 2011

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/10 with Laura D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/10

Stuart Wildman - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/10 with Steve Boxwell

Led as 4 pitches. Busy, had to wait for others before starting... Worth it for the top out though.
Alex Thompson - AltLd - 10/Nov/10 with Dreadlocks Chris

Done in 4 pitches. Brilliant.
willworkforfoodjnr - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/10 with Alex Thompson

led all 4 pitches, brillent route, 3*
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with margaret

Lallylandslider - 2nd - 06/Nov/10 with michael burrows

steve prior - AltLd - Nov/10 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/10

Fantastic route - 1st pitch seemed harder than 4; 2nd pitch broke in 2 - leading to awkward hanging belay; my 1st 6a lead but with rests; left final pitch.
igneouscarl - AltLd - 10/Apr/10 with Liz, Anna Sweet

Danhan - Lead - 07/Apr/10 with Dasa

Lead pitch 1 (F4) and 3 (F6a)
riven - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Liam

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Apr/10

A very nice climb with lots of variety in terms of technique.
Ben ski - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Melissa Ng, Xiaoye Chen

LiamAD - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Joe Barker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

allyrocke - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Robbie

SaraAT - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Jonathan Phillips

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Rob Leuhman

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/10 with Marcus

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Leo Woodhead - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/10 with Ian W

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/10

ccraigg22 - AltLd - 31/Mar/10 with Jack Loftus., Nick

Ianwesterby - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/10 with Leo

Did first 2 pitches of VD and top pitch of new route to the left (6bish)
Stig - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Roy Thomas

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Craig, Nick

Lead first pitch 4+
gb05 - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/10 with James Davies

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/10

better than amptrax. excellent route throughout
tomhull - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/10 with Liam Lonsdale

BETTER THAN AMPTRAX...quality route!
liamlonsdale - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/10 with Tom Hull

nadeem - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with James Morrison

good firs multi pich at el chorro
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 27/Feb/10 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/10

did a 6 pitch route and think the top 2 was part of this. i took the crux. pumpy. you dont need a 70m if you ab down nitti
adam06 - AltLd - 19/Jan/10 with chris carr

Gazleah - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with tom ireson

Katie Marshall - AltLd - 20/Dec/09 with James

alek - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Jenny Lear

mrstarwarsman - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09 with loz

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Nov/09

Climbed to top of pitch 3, claire decided against pitch three due to injury
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Claire Duffield

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/09

Liam led pitch one, I led pitch 2. Liam attempted pitch 3 but due to awkward start blackclipping ensued, resulting in a loss of psyche. I led pitch 3 but by then it was too dark to go on and we abbed off. A 70m rope is just long enough with rope stretch. A great route, look forward to going back and finishing it.
Roberttaylor - AltLd dnf - 05/Apr/09 with Liam Ingram

Stopped by darkness. Scary abseil in dark with rope only just long enough.
Liam Ingram - AltLd dnf - 05/Apr/09 with Robert Taylor

Led pitches 1 and 3.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Calum

Started up Nitti. led pitches 2 and 4.(did the first 2 pitches on the 30th also)
CalumC - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Andy Moles

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/09

Fergus Cuthill - Lead O/S - Apr/09

led pitches 2&4
pimpy - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Marcus Horgan

Led pitches 2 & 3
Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/09 with Hannah Evans

Ended up just leading pitch 2.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - Mar/08 with Sean Jacobs

Hidden - Lead - Feb/08

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
potnoodle13, beagle-ears, aislastringer, BenedictIEP, Seb2007, vix, peter myers

Total votes cast 64
hard 6a+0 of 30
6a+0 of 30
easy 6a+0 of 30
hard 6a0 of 30
6a28 of 30
easy 6a2 of 30
hard 5c0 of 30
5c0 of 30
easy 5c0 of 30
3 Stars33 of 34
2 Stars1 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP