Rockfax Description
18m. The lovely open wall and breaks. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50.

MD 16/Nov Lead O/S
with Jo
s1362083 07/Nov Lead
dvincen6 31/Oct Lead
with Lucy
potnoodle13 21/May Lead O/S
beagle-ears 21/May 2nd
pulseroom 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Alan Sanderson
Simon Caldwell 15/Apr Lead O/S

The ridiculous undergrading is still there in the latest edition of the local guide. I couldn't do the crux, so detoured onto the adjacent 6a instead for a couple of bolts. At least the scary traverse back left prepared me slightly for the truly terrifying traverse at the top to reach the lower-off! Might be a good route but I was too far out of my comfort zone to tell. 6a surely?

with Carmen
Jamie Brown 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Dave D
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd O/S
bobstones 13/Apr Lead

The top is ridiculous, you just cant get to the chains. Bailed from the route on the right.

Sameer 04/Apr Lead O/S

Very hard climb. Undergraded.

with Bex
clarendon 02/Apr Lead
with Tris
Topsy Turvy 02/Apr 2nd
with Mike P
mariannekhoo 24/Feb Lead O/S

The anchor is rather unfairly positioned. Not a route for a new climber.

rd20 24/Feb Lead O/S
philhaigh 03/Jan Lead O/S
bridget143 29/Dec/14 TR β
with Simen
Conor1 06/Dec/14 Lead β

5+ at least, lower off gone, retreated from mallion

Hidden 18/Nov/14 2nd dnf
Matt Smith 18/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Insanely undergraded, 5+ in local guide but must be harder. The traverse to the lower off is sketchy.

wyzfen 17/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/14 2nd O/S
D Tempest 28/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul
rfdl100 17/May/14 Lead
with Nicole
Little B 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Isaac, Jane
ASchwirtz 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Puma 01/Apr/14 Lead
lithos 01/Apr/14 Lead

1st route of holiday and not 4+ !

Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Lead
Rich Malcolm 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
buddha1369 27/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/13 Lead dog
Climbster 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Vick
jayyaj 23/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Hard crux even for a 5+. Lowered from a maillon that someone had left a couple of bolts before the top.

Hidden 17/Nov/13 Lead dnf
SGD 05/Oct/13 Lead

felt stiff for 4+ even if I had twisted my knee the day before. getting to the shared lower off with del osillo was interesting and its nowhere near where the topo show it??

Dan818 25/Jul/13 Lead dog
JonnyW 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
beakerburgess 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent! Some very good delicate technical moves

with Vienna
cem 18/Mar/13 Lead β

Not onsight as Chris did it first

CrispsSmiths 18/Mar/13 2nd
with cem
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
lecko ?/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Dave Pen ??/2013 Lead

Classic! The best 4+ in El Chorrow

mol 24/Dec/12 Lead
with Ken, Jesse
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Nov/12 Lead
Nevil 10/Nov/12 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 10/Nov/12 2nd
with Nevil
escostar 31/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Oct/12 2nd β
Tala M 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Massive sandbag!! More like 6a, route not where rockfax depicts in the guide, lower off situated lower than expected. Necessitates very difficult traverse! Be warned...

matthomas79 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tala M
ChrisB.19 21/Oct/12 TR
with Allan
stonemikey 13/Oct/12 Lead

As many have stated this is more like 5+ and the latest RockFax update acknowledges this. However, even taking this into account, the ridiculous position of the lower off should prevent this from being a top 50 route - worth 2 stars maximum.

runwildjohn 13/Oct/12 Lead

This is not a 4+, more like a 5+. Went off route at the top (on a sport climb!), expecting the lower off to be at the obvious platform above the last bolt. Had to downclimb and do the delicate traverse left to the chain - a real sting in the tail!

with Naomi Fraser, Mike Silver
Sannan75 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
cactus111 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
samfayers 09/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with sars
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead
johnmctighe 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very tricky - had to pull on a quickdraw at one stage. Horrible step up to lower off too.

with Austin
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Feb/12 Lead
will909 ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Rich Clague 02/Jan/12 -
Kevster 27/Dec/11 Lead O/S
RachelEm 27/Dec/11 2nd
callans 18/Dec/11 Lead β
with El Chorro Matt
Tesni 14/Dec/11 TR O/S
mwatson ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 26/Nov/11 Lead
with Steve Webster
lottiec 21/Nov/11 -
with Mikey P
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
paul horabin 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
fi15 27/Oct/11 TR
david0811 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Will, Dave Riley
MrRiley 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

no way 4+, the crux is around 6a+ and it looks like some crucial holds have snapped off....

with Will Owen
hellboundblr 16/Oct/11 Lead
john_ni 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

1st route of the hol & we pick a top 50 4+ that turns out to be undergraded & with a lower-off 2m to the left of where you finish that needs a 6a traverse & move to clip. Also dashed lines are missplaced on RockFax guide - starts left of the bush where 13 is shown. The 6a branch off is much better quality.

with Ian Wilkinson
Frostie 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Lewis, Cam
Lewis Stewart 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Frosty, Cameron
Hidden 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
waynem1985 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
igneouscarl 27/Apr/11 Lead
with Robert Jones
pete1185 25/Apr/11 Lead
JamieSparkes 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

not particularly great, and climbing doesn't really follow the bolts.

llamaglama 18/Apr/11 2nd
with Jam
richw2k2 27/Mar/11 Lead
with Monika
Andy Clarke 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Crux section deserves 5+.

with Dale
mark4344 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

v.polished, great climb, but hard for grade. should be 5+. not a top 50 though

with Dale Knox
Dale ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

5+ in rockfax update bou write

with Andy
Hidden 26/Feb/11 Lead
monika paprzycka 26/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Different Steve 23/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 07/Dec/10 Lead O/S
sarahlizzy 28/Nov/10 Lead dnf

This is not in any way a 4+. I dogged my way to the last bolt before the lower off then backed out, not wanting an awkward fall on a slab. I have no idea why the guidebook lists this as a 4+ - it's dangerously misleading. I don't think it's even a 5+. Those giving it 6a are probably closer to the mark. Beginners avoid!

with Syv
goi.ashmore 11/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Stuart Wildman 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Seema
philgeorge999 25/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the final move. It was within my ability but too tired. Also the route is not as it appears in the guide!

with ihsan
RalphC 05/Oct/10 Lead
with Caroline
Hidden 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 19/Mar/10 Lead

A sandbag! Has a 6a move

with Guy Hustinx
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Dizz 04/Mar/10 Lead dog

Very much not a good warm up climb!

with Ed
Dave Foster ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

In the soaking rain. Glad I had a few grades in hand!

with Alex
Nature_Boy12689 22/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Top 50 my left toe!!

auld al ??/2010 Lead
james chesmer ??/2010 Lead O/S
CathS 29/Dec/09 Lead dnf

Ridiculously graded. Was more like 6a than 4+

lucasp 29/Dec/09 Lead dog

Much harder than 4+

with Dave C (Lmc)
Hidden 17/Dec/09 Lead dnf
katiep 15/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Seemed much harder than the grade

with Jit
Ed Westwood 14/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 14/Dec/09 Lead O/S
RachaelB 07/Dec/09 2nd O/S

lovely but harder than the grade in the book - its an F5. Did an fantastic athletic move here where I put my foot in a break, pulled up with my left hand on a crimp whilst mantling with my right and then once I was at right arm extension, reached up for next left hold.

with jon youles
Hidden ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Luke Gilbert ?/Nov/09 Lead
with Sara Gilbert, Tom McCulloch
Simon Rackley ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with stan hodson
timcedwards ?/Nov/09 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
joe king 27/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 01/May/09 2nd dnf
alexrafferty1986 29/Apr/09 2nd O/S

easily 5+. bad bolting and lower off. but good climbing

with Zoomer
Zoomer 29/Apr/09 Lead

Very, very undergraded, long moves between breaks. Really poorly thought out lower off position and incorrectly marked in the new guidebook. Avoid.

Graham Iles 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Robinson, Neil Cooper
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Giles1 11/Mar/09 Lead O/S
woodenwealth ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Simon
steve prior ?/Feb/09 Lead
with Roz C
Ken Applegate 18/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Jan/09 Lead β
with Dave Coley
wheelo 27/Dec/08 Lead

Joke grade - at least a 5+

with cas
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/08 Lead O/S
timjones 27/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/01 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bobstones, pc1983, Andreas.Klaedtke
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set