18m. The lovely open wall and breaks. © Rockfax
Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Simon Caldwell||15/Apr||Lead O/S||
The ridiculous undergrading is still there in the latest edition of the local guide. I couldn't do the crux, so detoured onto the adjacent 6a instead for a couple of bolts. At least the scary traverse back left prepared me slightly for the truly terrifying traverse at the top to reach the lower-off! Might be a good route but I was too far out of my comfort zone to tell. 6a surely?
|Jamie Brown||15/Apr||Lead O/S||
The top is ridiculous, you just cant get to the chains. Bailed from the route on the right.
Very hard climb. Undergraded.
The anchor is rather unfairly positioned. Not a route for a new climber.
5+ at least, lower off gone, retreated from mallion
|Matt Smith||18/Nov/14||Lead O/S||
Insanely undergraded, 5+ in local guide but must be harder. The traverse to the lower off is sketchy.
|Little B||19/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
1st route of holiday and not 4+ !
|Rich Malcolm||03/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
Hard crux even for a 5+. Lowered from a maillon that someone had left a couple of bolts before the top.
felt stiff for 4+ even if I had twisted my knee the day before. getting to the shared lower off with del osillo was interesting and its nowhere near where the topo show it??
|Cheese Monkey||28/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
Excellent! Some very good delicate technical moves
Not onsight as Chris did it first
Classic! The best 4+ in El Chorrow
|Tala M||21/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Massive sandbag!! More like 6a, route not where rockfax depicts in the guide, lower off situated lower than expected. Necessitates very difficult traverse! Be warned...
As many have stated this is more like 5+ and the latest RockFax update acknowledges this. However, even taking this into account, the ridiculous position of the lower off should prevent this from being a top 50 route - worth 2 stars maximum.
This is not a 4+, more like a 5+. Went off route at the top (on a sport climb!), expecting the lower off to be at the obvious platform above the last bolt. Had to downclimb and do the delicate traverse left to the chain - a real sting in the tail!
Naomi Fraser, Mike Silver
Very tricky - had to pull on a quickdraw at one stage. Horrible step up to lower off too.
El Chorro Matt
|paul horabin||27/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Will, Dave Riley
no way 4+, the crux is around 6a+ and it looks like some crucial holds have snapped off....
1st route of the hol & we pick a top 50 4+ that turns out to be undergraded & with a lower-off 2m to the left of where you finish that needs a 6a traverse & move to clip. Also dashed lines are missplaced on RockFax guide - starts left of the bush where 13 is shown. The 6a branch off is much better quality.
|Lewis Stewart||11/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
not particularly great, and climbing doesn't really follow the bolts.
|Andy Clarke||27/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
Crux section deserves 5+.
v.polished, great climb, but hard for grade. should be 5+. not a top 50 though
5+ in rockfax update bou write
|Different Steve||23/Dec/10||Lead O/S||
This is not in any way a 4+. I dogged my way to the last bolt before the lower off then backed out, not wanting an awkward fall on a slab. I have no idea why the guidebook lists this as a 4+ - it's dangerously misleading. I don't think it's even a 5+. Those giving it 6a are probably closer to the mark. Beginners avoid!
|Stuart Wildman||07/Nov/10||Lead O/S|
Couldn't do the final move. It was within my ability but too tired. Also the route is not as it appears in the guide!
A sandbag! Has a 6a move
Very much not a good warm up climb!
|Dave Foster||?/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
In the soaking rain. Glad I had a few grades in hand!
Top 50 my left toe!!
|james chesmer||??/2010||Lead O/S|
Ridiculously graded. Was more like 6a than 4+
Much harder than 4+
Dave C (Lmc)
Seemed much harder than the grade
|Ed Westwood||14/Dec/09||Lead O/S|
lovely but harder than the grade in the book - its an F5. Did an fantastic athletic move here where I put my foot in a break, pulled up with my left hand on a crimp whilst mantling with my right and then once I was at right arm extension, reached up for next left hold.
Sara Gilbert, Tom McCulloch
|Simon Rackley||?/Nov/09||Lead O/S||
|joe king||27/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
easily 5+. bad bolting and lower off. but good climbing
Very, very undergraded, long moves between breaks. Really poorly thought out lower off position and incorrectly marked in the new guidebook. Avoid.
|Graham Iles||11/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Pete Robinson, Neil Cooper
|Ken Applegate||18/Jan/09||Lead O/S|
|Chris the Tall||11/Jan/09||Lead β||
Joke grade - at least a 5+