25m. An adventurous pitch, which is quite intimidating for the grade. Start 5 metres right of Strappados, at a peg and nut belay. Step right from the belay and climb a crack back leftwards and up past a tree stump (runner) to a break under an impressive chimney. Enter the chimney using a crack and jugs on the right (giant crusty thread deep in chimney). Pull over a bulge, and climb a crack, thread, until a difficult move must be made to exit to ledges. Giant thread belay with cable strop. Abseil off.

G Mason, I Adams 1968

Ticklists: Avon sub-VSes, Stanners Mendip mischief ultimate experience ticklist of glory (and surrounding areas).


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 22/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep 2nd O/S
Stanners 21/Aug 2nd rpt
with Jeff Jackson
aptius 21/Aug Lead O/S

Good climbing, bit overgrown at the top. Must return with suitable agricultural implements...

with Rob
catty_9 13/Aug Lead O/S

Lovely route. Little bit of a pain getting to the belay on the left at the top though due to the brambles

danieleaston 07/Jul Lead O/S

bit weird, maybe improved with traffic. Saw a vole in a crack half way up.

with Steve
Steve Bartle 07/Jul 2nd

Nice varied rocks and moves, albeit mostly straightforward. Needs more traffic to clean loose rock

Hidden 08/Jun 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 08/Jun Lead
steve_gibbs 04/May Lead O/S

Amazing climb! It's technical, steep, well protected and best of all..... it's an Avon VS that's NOT POLISHED!!! There's a few suspect pieces of rock, so be careful what you hold on to! Defo deserves a star!!

with Alex Rhodes
Win-yei 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Dan
gobbledigook 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Matt G
KeirVonMarlon 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

worthwhile route with plenty of solid gear

with Rich
richsmithinbristol 05/Jul/15 2nd
KeirVonMarlon 27/Jun/15 2nd

Seconded M's lead. Adventurous path from the top to gain access which adds to the experience. Nice route in the shade with only a little road noise. *

minty1984 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

What a route! Steep, technical and bomb proof gear all the way. Plus a kamikaze pigeon!!

sheelba 07/May/15 2nd

A good addition to the Avon VS's. Sadly the chimney does not require anything too devious

with Kevin
DanHB 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd O/S
grp 27/Mar/15 2nd
Stanners 19/Mar/15 Lead O/S

A VS that I haven't climbed at avon?! Brilliant climbing with an adventurous feel. That chimney is cool. Well worth a star.

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 19/Mar/15 2nd O/S
schwenk ?/Apr/08 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lieraza, Angrypenguin, Mlongman, Hidden, PEccleston, 9fingerjon
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 7
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set