|220m, 7 pitches. A serious route and not to be underestimated. The rock is extremely compact and protection is hard to find. There is little fixed gear, the route finding is not obvious and the difficulties sustained. All that said the climbing is fantastic, on perfect rock, making the route a must for anyone comfortable at this level of climbing. Not recommended after rain as the middle pitches follow the black streaks created by running water. A set of tri-cams to use in the many pockets can help protect the route.|
Start at the left side of the black-streaked vertical wall, just left of a steep corner-crack.
1) V+, 35m. Climb the crack, trending right to a stance.
2) V+, 35m. Traverse right on black rock to arrive directly below a niche 25m above. Climb a bulge then move diagonally left then steeply direct to step into the niche itself on its left-hand side.
3) VI-, 30m. Climb a bulge on the left of the niche, move right then follow a corner left to a thread.
4) V+, 30m. Make a traverse right then climb a steep wall diagonally right towards a niche.
5) V, 40m. Move right around the niche (also possible on the left) then trend left above to an easy-angled corner leading right.
6) IV, 40m. Follow the corner right to a thread.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow two corner-cracks right before moving direct to reach the large ledge under the summit.
8) III, 60m. Move right to reach the ridge, and follow this easily to the summit. © ROCKFAX
Follows a fairly direct line between the two obvious water streaks. Immaculate climbing on big pockets, but should be avoided when wet. 4 pitches of V+, followed by V, IV and IV+
Messner Brothers 1968
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|Style of ascent|