Via Messner*** VI-
220m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A serious route and not to be underestimated. The rock is extremely compact and protection is hard to find. There is little fixed gear, the route finding is not obvious and the difficulties sustained. All that said the climbing is fantastic, on perfect rock, making the route a must for anyone comfortable at this level of climbing. Not recommended after rain as the middle pitches follow the black streaks created by running water. A set of tri-cams to use in the many pockets can help protect the route.
Start at the left side of the black-streaked vertical wall, just left of a steep corner-crack.
1) V+, 35m. Climb the crack, trending right to a stance.
2) V+, 35m. Traverse right on black rock to arrive directly below a niche 25m above. Climb a bulge then move diagonally left then steeply direct to step into the niche itself on its left-hand side.
3) VI-, 30m. Climb a bulge on the left of the niche, move right then follow a corner left to a thread.
4) V+, 30m. Make a traverse right then climb a steep wall diagonally right towards a niche.
5) V, 40m. Move right around the niche (also possible on the left) then trend left above to an easy-angled corner leading right.
6) IV, 40m. Follow the corner right to a thread.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow two corner-cracks right before moving direct to reach the large ledge under the summit.
8) III, 60m. Move right to reach the ridge, and follow this easily to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Follows a fairly direct line between the two obvious water streaks. Immaculate climbing on big pockets, but should be avoided when wet. 4 pitches of V+, followed by V, IV and IV+

Messner Brothers 1968
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This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

rlade - 2015

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/13

Lenny - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Phil .N

Hahaha, which comedian thinks this is HVS? E2 sounds closer to the money. Varied and interesting climbing. Dolomites classic climbs topo is a bit off...
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Neil Adams

E2 5b I reckon. Timed it perfectly - the thunderstorm started just after we topped out...
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Ally F

Cool line, some tricky route finding and a few runouts but good rock and great climbing.
drysori - AltLd - 03/Jul/12 with Sam Burns

I rope soloed the first 3 pitches the day before.
Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Matt Roberts

roberts1234567890 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Peter holder

Rained off, never been so wet.
Chris_barr - Lead dnf - 2011 with Mike

Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/10 with henward

Very good route. Found it not too hard, but sustained, serious and difficult route finding. Ended up with some big runouts - take some tricams! sustained UIAA VI- seems about right.
danm - AltLd - 20/Aug/09 with bob curry, Jim Danson

jimdanson - 20/Aug/09 with dan middleton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07 with martina

alpinist63 - 21/Jul/07

CAI Padova, corso alpinismo
paola - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/07

chris wyatt - 2007

first route after 8 years off. Cracking... hooked again :-)
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Jerome

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/01 with RGraves

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/00

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/73 with TRE

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlanLittle, mrstarwarsman

Total votes cast 17
hard VI0 of 0
VI0 of 0
easy VI0 of 0
hard VI-0 of 0
VI-0 of 0
easy VI-0 of 0
hard V+0 of 0
V+0 of 0
easy V+0 of 0
3 Stars3 of 4
2 Stars1 of 4
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S