4 pitches.
The Chasms are bounded on the East by an impresive overhanging wall Xanadu wall with a steep grassy rake running the full height of the cliff. About half way down the rake springs an obvious slanting line, which is followed by Xanadu.
A fine route,serious,sustained and inescapable,some loose rock.
Start at the foot of the prominent diagonal crack line.
1. 80ft Surmount the overhanging crack(nut for aid,bong runner)and continue with difficulty up the crack line,using firm holds on the right wall. peg belay.
2. 50ft Continue in the same line,over shattered rock,untill a steep wall leads into a cave like recess.poor stance and several poor pegs belay.
3. 30ft Break left through overhang using one peg for aid. Continue on steep rock to a sensational stance. Bong belay.
4. 40ft Continue in the same line,up steep rock to the top.
It may be well to note this info is now rather old.
Peg belays may now have perished.
A fine route,serious,sustained and inescapable,some loose rock.
Start at the foot of the prominent diagonal crack line.
1. 80ft Surmount the overhanging crack(nut for aid,bong runner)and continue with difficulty up the crack line,using firm holds on the right wall. peg belay.
2. 50ft Continue in the same line,over shattered rock,untill a steep wall leads into a cave like recess.poor stance and several poor pegs belay.
3. 30ft Break left through overhang using one peg for aid. Continue on steep rock to a sensational stance. Bong belay.
4. 40ft Continue in the same line,up steep rock to the top.
It may be well to note this info is now rather old.
Peg belays may now have perished.
M.Thomas. W.Cheverest. J.Watson 05/May/1972.
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Route of Interest
Torque Test
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Chasms)