Restricted Access
Can seep so dry days are best. On the other hand it gets very hot in the sunshine.
On the right wing of the crag there are two rare Rock Whitebeam trees, these are some of the only remaining Rock Whitebeam in the Yorkshire Dales and likely represent a genetically distinct population. They are close to the routes Nettle Rash, Britvic Fifty-five and Mettle Nettle. Climber have been reported as damaging one of these by pruning. Under no circumstance should these trees be climbed on or pruned further, regardless of any encroachment onto routes. If climbing and free growth of these trees is not compatible then the affected routes will have to be banned.
Rockfax Description
Having reached the thread by one of the methods outlined below, climb the well-positioned groove to the roof. A big pull around this leads to the easier upper groove. Abseil off the tree.
The thread can be reached by one of three methods.
1) Aid up the bolts or use a stick to clip the thread and haul up to it - A0.
2) Traverse in from any of the previous three routes - 6b.
3) Climb direct via some painful and small pockets - f7C at least! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Fixed slings replaced 2021. There are bolts above the route or move right to the lower off on I Travel and so save the tree.
FA. R.M.Wilkinson, Bob Garnett (aid)1961. FFA Rob Gawthorpe 1982.
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A Plaice Lost In Time
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Smugglers Terrace)