100m, 2 pitches.
Abseil at 270 deg from the square-cut boulder. As you descend you will see a ledge out to your left beneath a square-cut corner. Avoid during the bird season.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb the square cut corner and then move right up ledges until you reach a wide, guano covered ledge. Ascend the steep crack about 4m from the left edge of the ledge. Belay on a wide ledge above (low headroom).
2) 5b, 50m. Climb the steep groove above, trending leftwards at the top. Move left and climb through an overhang into a short corner (crux). Finish up easier ground.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb the square cut corner and then move right up ledges until you reach a wide, guano covered ledge. Ascend the steep crack about 4m from the left edge of the ledge. Belay on a wide ledge above (low headroom).
2) 5b, 50m. Climb the steep groove above, trending leftwards at the top. Move left and climb through an overhang into a short corner (crux). Finish up easier ground.
FA. Neil Adams, Alasdair Fulton 21/May/2009.
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Route of Interest
Don't Look a Gift Horse in the Mouth
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Ness - The Butt of Lewis)