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|Lofoten > Presten >|
|Himmelen kan vente|| n6+ |
<< Vestpillaren original starten
Variasjon til en variasjon >>
|310m, 9 pitches. (Heaven Can Wait) The route is not entirely new, the lower section uses some pitches that have been done before. A large cam or two will come in useful.
1) 4+, 25m. As for pitch 1 of the Original Start (page §§§) but move up to a stance at the foot of a left-trending groove.
2) 6+ (or A0), 50m. Traverse left to reach the long cracks and climb this - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right with a quick pull on a nut. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.
5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.
7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and climb this diagonally leftwards (not obvious and poorly protected) to a small stance.
8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending. © ROCKFAX|
P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997
Photo: Andy working out the devious and unlikely looking traverse round the corner on Heaven Can Wait. (Himmelen kan vente) © Fultonius
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This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/11
The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.
Jonas Wiklund - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Joakim Söderström, Tommy Nilsson
We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish.
Once again, outstanding route!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Andy Inglis
Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Ally Fulton