|310m, 9 pitches. |
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. 1) 4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Original starten but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.2) 6+, 40m. Climb the crack - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above. 3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right-leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner on The Codfather almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and round the left end of the small roof/overlap and then further left to a right-leaning crack (almost reaching the line of Vestpillaren original finish)8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall. 9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending. © ROCKFAX
P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997
Photo: nice corner pitch © valecoastclimber
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