310m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful.
1) 4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Original starten but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.
2) 6+, 40m. Climb the crack - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right-leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.
5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner on The Codfather almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.
7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and round the left end of the small roof/overlap and then further left to a right-leaning crack (almost reaching the line of Vestpillaren original finish)
8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending. © Rockfax

P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997

Pippa 04/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead the odd pitches. Jam did amazingly well freeing the 7 version of pitch 2. Really struggled with the off width a size 4 cam would have helped. The crack in the overhang was tricky but the hard move is up a really thin crack. Managed to do it clean. Some easy scrambling to pitch 4. Half way up the slanting corner slab the crack runs out and it would have been impossible to lead at 6- so Jam stepped right. I tried it on top rope and it was only just climbable on friction alone and palming on the left wall, but would have been scary as hell. Perhaps it goes up the slab to the left and arête rather than the corner? The Swiss team behind us didn't know or care. Pitch 5 was a nice climb up the corner with a tricky exit onto the ledge on the left. Nice technical climbing up the thin crack above. Pitch 7 was actually quite well protected and fairly obvious at the start up the right side of a small triangular niche and then the widest part of the overlap on the left. Then a slab traverse up and left with good cams below. Tiny wires in a small corner then headed up to the crack on the right because the rockfax update suggests this but the crack runs out and it was hard to see the belay above. Shouted to some Norweigans above us who said to traverse back left and up a dihedral. Had to belay at the base of this corner and at the top again to make it. 30m? hmmmmm. Jam did really well again on the technical thin flake above. Really nice climbing. I lead the final roof pitch with dreadful rope drag, got one rope jammed in the crack at the end of the first roof and had to haul myself onto my knees fighting the rope over the second roof. Belayed here and then made the 50m scramble to the top on gear as it feels a bit loose. Great day out. Finished with a gig on Festvastingen by a Norweigan singer song writer, a beautiful sunset and hundreds of people.

valecoastclimber 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead
Jonas Wiklund ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.

with Joakim Söderström, Tommy Nilsson
Fultonius 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish. Once again, outstanding route!

andyinglis 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!

High n7-
Mid n7-
Low n7-
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set