Himmelen kan vente*** n6+
[nice corner pitch, 2 kb]310m, 9 pitches. 310m. (Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. 1) 4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Original starten but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack. 2) 6+, 40m. Climb the crack - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above. 3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove. 4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right-leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left. 5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner on The Codfather almost to its end, then head out left to a belay. 6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren. 7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and round the left end of the small roof/overlap and then further left to a right-leaning crack (almost reaching the line of Vestpillaren original finish) 8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall. 9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending. © ROCKFAX


P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997

Photo: nice corner pitch © valecoastclimber
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

valecoastclimber - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/11

The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.
Jonas Wiklund - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Joakim Söderström, Tommy Nilsson

We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish. Once again, outstanding route!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Andy Inglis

Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Ally Fulton

Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard n7-0 of 3
n7-0 of 3
easy n7-0 of 3
hard n6+0 of 3
n6+2 of 3
easy n6+0 of 3
hard n61 of 3
n60 of 3
easy n60 of 3
3 Stars3 of 3
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