Rockfax Description
The crest of the broad pillar to the left of the central chimney system, initially up the huge left-facing groove, then up the rounded crest of the buttress.
1) N4+, 40m. From blocks, climb easy slabs, grooves and cracks to a stance below and left of the huge left-facing corner system.
2) N7, 30m. Gain the corner and climb it with increasing difficulty - poor protection. The final section may be done with a bit of aid at 6+/A2. Above the roof, belay on a good flake.
3) N6+, 30m. Bold! Climb the slabs to a small flake (gear) then continue climbing in the same line to the sanctuary of the crack systems. Follow these to the grass ledge.
4) to 6) N5. Finish up Coley Smoke. © Rockfax

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