|465m, 11 pitches. An excellent route, varied and devious, with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro-wires. Start at a vegetated bay between Yppersrepressten and Reisen.
1) 5, 45m. Climb easy slabs to the back of the bay then follow cracks leading towards the overlap to belay on a small ledge.
2) 6-, 25m. Climb to the overlap, pull through then move right and continue up cracks to a belay where they end.
3) 7, 30m. Climb to and past the left-hand side of the overlap and climb to a basalt dyke (shared with Ypperstepresten). Move right for 5m to below the next crack line which is reached from the right by poorly protected climbing. Belay 3m higher.
4) 7, 50m. Continue up the crack to its end, them make a difficult move rightwards across the orange streak into the next crack-line. Climb this up and right to a belay in the angle under the Big Roof.
5) 6+, 50m. Climb up then out right to a smooth groove. Head up and left, passing a large detached flake, then continue above this to a crack-line leading rightwards across the slab to a stance on the left of the huge block on Storhylla.
6) 6, 55m. Climb the groove then move left and pull over the left edge of the overlap. Follow the crack to ledges below the prominent right-curving groove on the right side of the pillar.
7) 5-, 30m. Climb the groove to the point where it starts to lean to the right and becomes smooth - belay here.
8) 6, 35m. Continue up the groove until directly below a vegetated ledge, then cross the overhangs to reach the ledge.
9) 6, 50m. Climb up and right to gain the grooves to the right of Vestpillaren's Slanting Corner and follow these (past a ledge leading across to Vestpillaren) continuing for another 10m until move left reaches the stance at the end of Vestpillaren pitch 9.
10) 6, 55m. Follow Vestpillaren past the hollow flake, then continue rightwards up slabs and grooves to cross the top of the black dyke. Climb slabs and groove until the peg on Vestpillaren pitch 11 can be reached. Climb to the Vestpillaren belay.
11) 3, 55m. Finish up the gully as for Vestpillaren. © ROCKFAX|
Photo: Codfather FA Details © Chris Craggs