Hairy Mary*** VS 4b
[The best VS in Scotland, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Skye Rock.

Photo: The best VS in Scotland © JamieSparkes
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 52 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/15

Juggy and hairy
Natalie Berry - UKC - 2nd - 25/Jun/15 with Chris Prescott

utterly brilliant pumpy jug-fest in wild position.
Gregory - Lead - 22/Jun/15 with grimer

Climbed for Operation Moffat. Ace, ace ace. Gwen woulda loved it. Saved climbing in our bikinis cos of the midges.
clairejane - Lead O/S - Jun/15 with Miss Jen Randall

HarryNewmark - Lead - Jun/15

What a brilliant route.
olekemi - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with Mark G

Wonderful!
Becks87 - 2nd O/S - 07/May/15 with Adam L

Now this is one of the best climbs I've ever done. It's got to be one of the best VS routes in the country. Great exposure and protection is excellent throughout. Had a bit of a problem with rope drag at the start, I didn't feel brave enough to do the first moves without gear. Ended up belaying Rebecca up past the overhang and into the corner before I moved out onto the face. Absolutely glorious climbing and crazy to see the waves crashing below. See where it gets its name from once you're on it. Encrusted with furry lichen but it does nothing to hinder the beautiful experience. Those holds at the top are ace. Well worth the hike out
atom - Lead O/S - 07/May/15 with Rebecca Wood

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/15

malone - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Andrew Appleby

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 06/Apr/15 with Sam

doughnuts - Lead O/S - 2015

freudy_love - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/14 with Squirrel

wild for the grade
danimal88 - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with charlie

Dougie Harvey - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with Steve Addy, Mark Littlewood

alice_loudon - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Niels

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14

Amazing position above the waves, feels a bit sustained for grade but big holds.
Captain Solo - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Cal

alex toomey - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

alexmcmillan - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Kitty Selkirk

Victor Ivanov - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Anne Peale

annep11 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Anna D, Victor Ivanov

samwillo - Solo - 24/Apr/14 with Marianne Lalli

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/14

Unique and more amenable than appearances suggest.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Tim Clarke

James Thacker - 2014

colin.morrison - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Ewan

Bry - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Chris Hind

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/13

Craig Holden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13

tom.e - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Charlie Everett

Andy Moles - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13

Sophie Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Danielle Arnott

Liam Ingram - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Catrin Nichols

Danielle Arnott - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Sophie Gilbert

Awesome
catrin289 - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Liam Ingram

Triggalicious - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Fergus Cuthill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13

Still great, though the lichen is clearing off the line now so it's a little easier to see where to go.
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 07/Jun/13 with Suzy Howat

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/13

maryleese - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Bobby Greig

I had to come back for this! Unbelievable route. Mary is quite hairy though...
Alex the Alex - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Callum T - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Euan Strachan

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Ben Barnard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - Aug/12

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/12 with Clement Hutin, Rachel

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Catherine Marsh, Joanna

horsefeathers - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Catherine Marsh, Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

The Big Sender - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/12 with catrin

catjm - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Joanna Lisiowec, Harry Holmes

Bizarrely graded HVS 4b in the 2012 guide - this implies some sort of danger which put us off the day before, but after checking UKC comments that evening decided to go back. And it was well worth it - a brilliant route, and I wish I'd had the nerve to lead it! Shame the sun was in the wrong place for any photos - good excuse to go back and do it again. All the gear you could possibly need, but you wouldn't want to hang around too long to place it and it could be interesting getting back on the rock if you fell off - so probably VS 4b. At Peak Scar (which is similarly steep and juggy) it would get HS!
Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/12 with Carmen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12

Robin Woodward - Lead - Jun/12

Alex the Alex - 2nd - Jun/12

Michael Ryan - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com

Full value for the grade with wild positions and pretty damn steep but plenty of holds and gear, lovely climbing, well worth doing....
Chad123 - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with Emily

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Great climb with fantastic exposure!
crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Andy Peters

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with McNally

burto - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with phil

ferdia - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Katie Main

Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Tom HS

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Tom Eadington

gforce - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Emma

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10

Fantastic climbing in a truly stunning position, would be 4* if I had the choice!
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with rcammack

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10

Excellent!
rcammack - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Jamie Sparkes

Probably only HS 4b, but really great climbing in an excellent position.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/09 with victim of mathematics

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sea_lene, oscaig, Urgles, danieleaston, skirton, CM1992, DavidR, paulpitcher, BDA - changed, vix, j.richards, jonnybull, Jacob k-d, cjbaker, Andypandyroo, Palmer, theloringharvey, Tangerine_Kingdom, Brendan, Dave89, Ander, aldo56, mike_tamanawis, Katherine Ross, Ann S, Rob99, Lawrie Brand, andymoin, Euan Strachan, Thoms6974, JonmapDL, holly138, Ropeboy, Woodiee, michael83

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard VS2 of 15
VS10 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard HS2 of 15
HS1 of 15
easy HS0 of 15
hard 4c0 of 14
4c5 of 14
easy 4c1 of 14
hard 4b6 of 14
4b2 of 14
easy 4b0 of 14
hard 4a0 of 14
4a0 of 14
easy 4a0 of 14
3 Stars13 of 16
2 Stars3 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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