UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

25m.

Rockfax Description
The huge ship's keel is exhilarating and photogenic. Stay as close to the arete as possible for maximum exposure. © Rockfax

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , ULMC Classics , ICAS Climbing Club , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Spanish crew 2018 , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland , No Hand Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pawel W 23 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. The best in Fallen Slab. Good for beginners.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic. The best in Fallen Slab. Good for beginners.
jakubvronsky 7 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block around last bolt. Have marked with an X
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block around last bolt. Have marked with an X
howens 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route; tempting to move right away from exposed arête; attractive-looking loose piece near top still there (30 May 2021)
βeta?
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βeta: Fun route; tempting to move right away from exposed arête; attractive-looking loose piece near top still there (30 May 2021)
LlionRoberts 20 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock is still there (18 Apr 21).
βeta?
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βeta: Loose rock is still there (18 Apr 21).
vb308 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Again loose rock still there 3/4 of the way up (12/08/2020)
βeta?
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βeta: Again loose rock still there 3/4 of the way up (12/08/2020)
SimonPaver 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware! There is still a loose block near the last bolt (as of Sunday 3rd August 2020)
βeta?
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βeta: Beware! There is still a loose block near the last bolt (as of Sunday 3rd August 2020)
Jamdahll 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Went up in approach shoes, kicked loose block off by last bolt before anchor. Hopefully all good now.
βeta?
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βeta: Went up in approach shoes, kicked loose block off by last bolt before anchor. Hopefully all good now.
jamesnchlsn 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock flake 3/4 of way up. Doesn’t seem likely to come down currently but is an obvious hold. Cracking route
βeta?
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βeta: Loose rock flake 3/4 of way up. Doesn’t seem likely to come down currently but is an obvious hold. Cracking route
Eduardo2010 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock 3/4 of way up
βeta?
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βeta: Loose rock 3/4 of way up
Eddietheed 17 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock about 5kg near the top of the route
βeta?
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βeta: Loose rock about 5kg near the top of the route
BertieP42 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block near the top looks like its close to coming out
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block near the top looks like its close to coming out
Luke Guzkowski 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: loose rock at near the top
βeta?
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βeta: loose rock at near the top
AlecJayBrown 22 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there's a loose rock near the top of the route
βeta?
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βeta: there's a loose rock near the top of the route
Hector Thornton-Swan 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: loose ish block at the top
βeta?
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βeta: loose ish block at the top
omniscient_penguin 11 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Loved this one, nice and easy with lots of options all the way up. Once top-roped my belayer could barely keep up. The only disconcerting moment on the lead was being unable to see where the penultimate bolt was due to the curvature of the arete, but by that stage the climbing is easy enough to just push on through.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loved this one, nice and easy with lots of options all the way up. Once top-roped my belayer could barely keep up. The only disconcerting moment on the lead was being unable to see where the penultimate bolt was due to the curvature of the arete, but by that stage the climbing is easy enough to just push on through.
nugski 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not a bad route. Didn't enjoy as much as i thought i would! Probably gonna solo it as will be more enjoyable that way! Nick trad climbing is pointless. If i had my way every rock face in the world would be bolted!!
βeta?
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βeta: Not a bad route. Didn't enjoy as much as i thought i would! Probably gonna solo it as will be more enjoyable that way! Nick trad climbing is pointless. If i had my way every rock face in the world would be bolted!!
Sash.C 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great choice got beginers, but still very enjoyable for those with experience. Nick get over it. Damn trad climbers! no doubt you don't use chalk and like hugging trees too.
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βeta: A great choice got beginers, but still very enjoyable for those with experience. Nick get over it. Damn trad climbers! no doubt you don't use chalk and like hugging trees too.
Alex More 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with steve an absolute gem! Great setting and perfect place to introduce friends to the joy of climbing
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βeta: Agree with steve an absolute gem! Great setting and perfect place to introduce friends to the joy of climbing
mwh 30 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun. The lower off is a bit oddly placed, though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun. The lower off is a bit oddly placed, though.

Logged Ascents

3210 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
Votes cast 202
Votes cast 234
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intermediate Route

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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