Col dei Bos** VF3B
[The Fanes Group from Col dei Bos, 2 kb]300m.

Rockfax Description
The via ferrata on Col dei Bos is sometimes known as Ferrata degi Alpini, after the Italian military from Bolzano who constructed the route in 2007/8. It follows the line of a previous route that was used frequently by the army in the sixties. The route was also something of an experiment to create a 'safe' via ferrata, so is particularly well equipped with short run-outs and rubber caps between cables. It is a relatively long via ferrata but has a short walk in and easy descent. Apart from the initial section, it is considerably easier than its grade may suggest.
Note - Before heading out to do this ferrata, it is worth giving the tourist office or Ristorante Da Strobel a ring to check the route's status - the army usually reclaim the ferrata for two weeks during July, closing it to the general public.

Approach - From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the SS48 to the west, following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Continue for 8km up the pass until you reach Casa Cantoniera Ra Nona, a large red building on the right-hand side of the road. From here continue a further two hairpins up the road to Ristorante Da Strobel. There is ample parking on both sides of the road. Alternatively, and depending on your chosen descent, continue up to the top of the pass and park at the Lagazuoi cable car.
From Ristorante Da Strobel, Ascend the path behind the restaurant, following dry steam beds, to join path 423, just before the Falzarego Towers.
From the Lagazuoi car park, ascend path 402 and after 50m branch right following a white sign for Ferrata Col dei Bos. Follow the path through shrubs, contouring below the base of the rocks on the right. Shortly after crossing a small bridge, pass underneath the Falzarego Towers to reach the remains of an old military hospital. Continue past the hospital and branch left onto a small path leading up to the base of Col dei Bos.
VF - The first few moves of the via ferrata are by far the hardest, and the taut cable is appreciated on a strenuous and fairly technical vertical crack. Make a short traverse right then continue vertically in the corner before exiting onto a wide and open ramp. Follow the ramp then overcome a short steep wall to reach easier ground. From here you can relax in the knowledge that the worst is behind you. The wire acts as hardly more than a handrail as the route ascends straightfoward ground until reaching another more vertical section, followed by an exposed traverse. The route now continues, alternating between walking and short sections of climbing, with excellent protection throughout. Make a short descent to reach the third and final section of the via ferrata. This section can sometimes be wet but otherwise poses no problems as the holds are excellent. Top out from the wall at the end of the wire and continue walking easily for a few minutes to reach breathtaking views on the summit.
Descent - There are numerous possibilities from the summit. The most direct descent is to follow a path left to reach the saddle between Col dei Bos and the Falzarego Towers, then take the loose and rather unpleasant gully back to the remains of the military hospital. A more civilised option is to descend north from the summit to reach Forcella Col dei Bos, then turn right onto path 402. Follow this to reach a vehicle track then continue on path 412 to cut below the face and return to the start of the route. For those wishing to extend the day, other options are to descend northeast from the summit to reach Forcella Travenanzes, then either descend path 402 back to the Lagazuoi cable car or ascend up the ski piste to reach the top station, then descend the interesting Lagazuoi War Tunnels (headtorch required). © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A new VF put up in 2008 by the Italian Military. Currently not marked on most maps. Starts on the arete to the right of the old WW1 field hospital.

It's worth considering the day to climb this VF as Saturdays and Sundays can result in queues of up to 50+ people at the base. The local Alpini (Special army branch) can also take over this VF on certain days stopping public access.

Photo: The Fanes Group from Col dei Bos © Trevers
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

tim newton - 25/Aug/15 with rachel slater

Rachel Slater - 25/Aug/15 with Tim Newton

Tim Harper - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/15

yossarian714 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15

ali macphee - Solo - 13/Jul/15 with Hilary

John Foster - 26/Jun/15

Superb VF. Can climb on rock without using the cable pretty much all the time - very enjoyable. Great views from the top. Glad we carried walking sticks for the descent.
Juan S - 21/Jun/15 with Wei

timmyhobby - 17/Jun/15

purplemushroom - 28/Sep/14 with Ben Wetherill

Superb route. All of the various descriptions regarding the 'filter' at the start are true. There are a couple moves that are not typical of the grade...but fun.
LauraChilterns - 26/Sep/14

charlielow - 11/Sep/14 with Sue Low

Sean Martin - 11/Sep/14

Hidden - 10/Sep/14

Celia Watson - 10/Sep/14 with stuart watson

Good new route, with nice wandering descent down behind
JulianD - Solo - 09/Sep/14 with Paul B, David H

Simon Pelly - 07/Sep/14

Nice route, tricky start but much easier thereafter and possible to climb on rock rather than use the cable/aid which adds to the enjoyment.
Oujmik - Sep/14 with Jyoti

hazeysunshine - 17/Aug/14 with Sharon, Cristina

Hidden - 01/Aug/14

First vf3b. Mostly easy, couple of trickyish moves. Continued up to the summit and then down the gully. Dropped Adams camera. Oopsy.
wjcdean - 07/Jul/14 with Adam Bird, Trevers

Fun via feratta, cables are safe as houses but a lot of loose rock. Awesome views from the top.
Trevers - 07/Jul/14 with BStar, wjcdean

Excellent VF, probably one of my favourites in the area. Pumpy first section then it eases off.
BStar - 07/Jul/14 with Trevers, Will Dean

kb273 - 25/Jun/14

Hidden - 23/Sep/13

Hidden - 18/Sep/13

Alex Eperon - 14/Sep/13

Giles Eperon - 14/Sep/13 with jena meinecke

Hidden - 09/Sep/13

Marq - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Cath Sanders, Vicky Lisle, James Rowe

good route the start is the hardest bit
Vicky L - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/13 with James R, Cath S, Marq

Hidden - 27/Aug/13

Roger Cruse - Solo O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Kris

Cheese Monkey - 08/Aug/13 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 08/Aug/13 with Ben Darby

Jontro - 24/Jul/13 with Fiona Hollinshead

jhobbs - 03/Jul/13 with Richard Harvey

Harvdog - 03/Jul/13 with John Hobbs

JonnoP - 27/Sep/12 with Caroline Larkman

Pompey - 27/Sep/12 with JP

mike_hough_uk - 09/Sep/12 with chri55ie

chri55ie - 09/Sep/12 with Mike Hough

MariaT - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Kelly Smith, Marcus, Dan Piddock, David Walker

David Walker - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Kelly Smith, Marcus Povey, Dan Piddock, Maria

Kelly Smith - 06/Sep/12 with Dan Piddock, Maria Walker, Marcus Povey, David Walker

dpiddock - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Kelly Smith, Marcus, Dave Walker, Maria Walker

Much better climbing; no wire pulling. Great traverse halfway up
lucyh - 05/Sep/12

Monkey_Alan - 04/Sep/12 with Simon Blanchflower

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

JamesRich - 03/Aug/12 with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich

zoeimogen - 02/Aug/12

Hidden - 23/Jul/12

jhobbs - 16/Jul/12 with Tim Melrose

tmelrose - Solo - 16/Jul/12 with jhobbs

Done with Steve, Ed, Jon, Mike, Ruth & John.
jshields - Solo - 13/Jul/12

With DMC
Sankey - 13/Jul/12

Done with Jon, Eddie, Steve, John, Ruth, and John
MikeDowsett - Solo - 13/Jul/12

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

danieleaston - Jul/12

Hidden - 27/Jun/12

First VF3B I've done! We had to queue behind a large group of soldiers. Thankfully they exited down a gully before the final section of climbing.
Moby Copperfield - 26/Jun/12

Neil Metcalfe101 - 03/Jun/12 with Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - 21/Sep/11

Hidden - 04/Sep/11

Done again with a party of 22!! Long day on the wire but much easier now I'd got the hang of moving over VF terrain.
IamAJMiller - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/11 with rch3l

First VF, tricky start but that's 'cause I wasn't used to clipping. Once I got the hang of it we bashed out the route in 1hr 20mins. A cracking route, brilliant!
IamAJMiller - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11 with rch3l

Stunningly well built, new VF. State of the art protection and some nice climbing. Very highly recommended.
sarahlizzy - 27/Jul/11 with Syv

liabilityliz - Lead - 22/Jul/11 with Brian Evans

Hidden - 16/Jul/11

Thought the start quite hard for the grade. Great views.
Mike-W-99 - 14/Jul/11 with Fiona

Very well protected but some pretty stiff moves for 3B. The descent path down the gully is pretty unpleasant but the approaching weather encouraged us to go for the quick way down.
Fiona Reid - 14/Jul/11 with Mike

Griff87 - Jul/11

Similar difficulty to VF Sandro Pertini, which is graded 4B.
syv_k - Jul/11 with sarahlizzy

Good route throughout, though climbed past the corners section and climbed a face with many friable holds and not much gear to rejoin the route at the top of pitch 5. Drop your sac for the penultimate squeeze. Can be done with the bag on, but it's physical!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Davey Boy

Done many times
rch3l - May/11

Hidden - 24/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/09

Hidden - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - 13/Jun/09

monkeytennis - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Mark Sauer, Mark

A really good route.
CathS - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

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