II, 215m. When this route is accessible, it provides an excellent set of crack pitches, protected by wires and small cams. There are also some pegs and even a few bolts on the bolder slab sections. The belays are equipped with pegs and glue-ins. IMPORTANT - There is often work going on at the top of the couloir to the left of this route so check if this is the case, and if so, climb elsewhere as the workmen don't hold back on chucking rocks down the couloir! 1) 5b, 20m. Climb rightwards to stand on top of a block, below and left of a tough-looking slab.2) 6b+, 30m. The slab is indeed tough! Cross it leftwards, past a couple of bolts, until beneath an overhanging groove. Climb this with considerable difficulty, clipping some fixed pegs, before reaching a peg belay. 3) 6b, 35m. Climb the corner-crack above for 10m (6a) to reach a ledge. Traverse leftwards along this to reach a corner-crack to the right of a pillar. Climb this up some grey rock to a belay beneath an imposing, steep wall.4) 5c, 20m. Fire up the wall itself via steep cracks for 10m then traverse right along the ledge system to a sunnier belay, back on the golden rock of the south face proper.5) 6b, 15m. Follow the right-leaning groove above using plenty of grunt before traversing back left to a notch.6) 6b, 40m. Climb directly up and out of the notch to reach a series of ledges. Move right and follow a long system of grooves to the crest of a ridge, overlooking a gully on the left. This belay is shared with the Rébuffat-Baquet.7) 4a, 15m. Cross the gully leftwards (possibly some snow here in early season) to a belay at the foot of a long corner.8) 6a, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb the slab and crack which takes you leftwards to reach an exposed ledge on the crest of the arête. Climb just to the right of the arête to the summit of the pinnacle via some excellent cracks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Amazing climb following crack lines up the 'grey' side of the South face. Sustained and flawless. Takes longer to dry than the rest of the routes in the South face.
Handful of zeros recommended. Tape gloves optional.