|240m. 240m. (The Mosquito) Not a real Lofoten classic but this route has a lot of good climbing and is quite popular. Grass and bushes detract a bit from the overall quality. |
1) 4+, 45m. Start up a V-groove in the left toe of the pillar. Step left at its top and climb a bit higher to a belay above an overlap on a small ledge with a block.
2) 5-, 40m. Traverse right across the blank slab to a ledge with a fixed nut. Continue up and right across the slab and into a shallow groove with a small stance.
3) 5, 35m. Climb the easy V-groove to another fixed nut, then step left across a short slab into a crack which leads into a groove with small trees and a belay on the right.
4) 4+, 20m. Step right to a layback flake that leads into the V-groove - the route’s major feature - which is capped by a huge bulging chockstone. Continue up the groove, past bushes, to a small belay ledge (peg belay).
5) 5+, 25m. Climb the groove above to the bulge (peg) which requires some tricky bridging. Continue with difficulty up the strenuous corner-crack and belay on a ledge on the left.
6) 5-, 20m. Walk up the grass above, then climb out right around a small roof. Layback up the steep corner forming the right-hand side of the huge jammed chockstone at the top of the main V-groove, to a good stance.
7) 5-, 20m. Follow easier cracks up to another long narrow and comfortable belay ledge. Peg on the right.
8) 5+, 35m. From the left-hand end of the ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack (peg - very exposed) into another crack and climb up to a ledge. Continue up and left, following a higher crack to another good ledge.
9) 2, 30m. Finish left easily into the shrubbery above. © ROCKFAX
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