Cassin*** VII-
[After the crux traverse, Sarahs cruising, 2 kb]250m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route that weaves its way up the centre of Cima Piccolissima. Originally the rock was quite loose but, thanks to the numerous ascents, this is no longer the case. A technical and delicate climb, ideal for those working up to Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande because the difficulties are much the same, only this route is shorter.
Start 20m up the descent gully, traversing right to reach the base of a polished corner. Access this direct or from the left.
1) V-, 25m. Climb the corner above, trending left past a series of overhangs.
2) V-, 20m. Climb the wall above to enter a steep vertical corner-crack. Follow this for around 12m then move right to a comfortable ledge below the steep pale walls above.
3) VI, 45m. Move further right to climb a yellow ramp. Move right around an overhang and climb a short technical crack. Climb the wall above direct, or step left (easier but possible intermediate belay recommended), to climb a vague corner and a crack.
4) VII-, 30m. Continue to the overhang above, pull through this and continue up an exposed slab. Climb a technical crack to reach the stance by a detached flake.
5) V, 30m. Climb an overhanging corner-crack on excellent holds to reach a horizontal break in the rock. From here, make a 20m traverse left to reach the base of a pillar.
6) V-, 30m. Climb the corner formed by the pillar with some good bridging moves to reach the top of the pillar.
7) V+, 40m. Step down left then climb a crack following the line of the arete, trending right, to reach a small ledge.
8) V+, 30m. Climb direct from the ledge to tackle an overhanging yellow crack. Continue to the right of a flake then move back left to belay on a good ledge.
9) III, 30m. Traverse left easily along the ledge to belay below a prominent chimney. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent steep route on the sunny south side providing a good alternative to some of the longer north faces.

Photo: After the crux traverse, Sarahs cruising © irish paul
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

james1978 - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/15 with pam

Great dawn start and a good route. Plenty of fixed gear. Some loose rock. Lead even pitches, including the loose last two to the summit (VI and V+ as Kohler & Memmel, not Rockfax). After the first abseil from the summit, the next abseil rings are a scramble to a terrace (cairn) almost on the north face at the back of the gully. 5 hours.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/15 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/15

rlade - 2015

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/14 with Erik

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Sep/14

Fun. Def worth going to the top (last pitches easy). Led P4,6,7,8,10&11.
quiffhanger - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

Good route, Ross led the hard pitch. Abseil down the gully was interesting, full of choss and snow, glad no-one was above us!
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

bede.west - AltLd O/S - Aug/14 with jack lawledge, Henry Francis

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/Jul/14

Great Route!!
RonnydeWeerd - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Tom ten Voorde

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

jcw - 2014

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Sarah

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Matt Helliker

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/Aug/12

monty led crux.
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with monsteratt

Probably the best rock we climbed on all week. Nervous to start and the two hard pitches probably the most 'out there' thing I've lead to date. Marred slightly by loose rock on the descent
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Nick Whimster

Great route, steep and sustained for quite a while. Em led the crux in style and I got the loose tricky pitch near the top, but we were glad to go to the top for the views...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with Emily

Stunning situation with easier climbing than first appearances might suggest!
mgeek - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with adam hughes & Jonny Stocking

Good route. Easy climbing for VII-, soft E2. Great position for a small peak
akhughes - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Mgeek and Jonny Stocking

Kopo - Aug/09 with Emmi

khawk - AltLd - 22/Jul/09 with DT

mirise - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Katerina Matyushevskaja

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/08

Great fun. Descent dangerous as hell though - funnel gully full of loose rock. Pulled on a peg to get over the crux roof - it was hard and I had the rucksack on. The rest all free.
AJM - AltLd - 10/Jul/08 with Alex Gaastra

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Nicos - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/07 with rich howels

laurent - AltLd - 21/Jul/06

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2006 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

chris wyatt - Aug/05 with cardiff mike

clarky_two - Aug/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/88

mark-abz - AltLd - 01/Aug/83 with Walter P

Seymore Butt - 1970

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, web10steelj, Johnny Baker, jonnybull, alexanderjwatts, Lawrie Brand, michael83, ab tat, langar27

Total votes cast 10
hard VII0 of 3
VII0 of 3
easy VII0 of 3
hard VII-0 of 3
VII-2 of 3
easy VII-1 of 3
hard VI+0 of 3
VI+0 of 3
easy VI+0 of 3
3 Stars7 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S