|350m, 11 pitches. The most popular route on the face with continually interesting climbing on good rock. There isn't a great deal of fixed gear and there are some reasonable run outs, so climbers need to be happy at the grade. The route continues past the descent terrace but it is loose and unpleasant and hence not described here. |
Start at a right-slanting ledge just left of a prominent white roof. The bolts of Via dei Ricordi (Route of Memories) further to the right at the other side of the roof can be a useful indictor.
1) IV+, 40m. Follow rocky steps first right then back left and belay on a large horizontal break.
2) V-, 20m. Step left from the belay and continue direct towards a large yellow overhang. Just before this step out right to the belay.
3) V-, 30m. Step right from the belay and follow a shallow corner on black rock until you reach an area of very pale rock - belay here (be careful you don't go too high up the corner towards the large roof).
4) V+, 7m. Make a short but exposed traverse (with limited gear) to the right until beneath a steep-looking crack with a little roof.
5) VI-, 40m. Climb the corner-crack with a strenuous move to leave the belay and a few blind holds higher up. Trend slightly right towards the top to a small and cramped belay.
6) IV+, 30m. Follow the crack above direct for a few metres before trending right up to a large ledge. Follow the ledge back left and belay under a prominent black chimney-corner.
7) V-, 40m. Climb the chimney then follow the natural line as it leads slightly left then back right and ultimately to the descent terrace. © ROCKFAX
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