Ski Club 18** VF5B

Rockfax Description
This via ferrata was equipped in 2009 and is one of the hardest in the area, being of comparable difficulty to Cesare Piazetta and Magnifici Quattro. The climbing is steep and sustained requiring good fitness. Being such a new via ferrata there are still sections that need cleaning, but the flip side of this is a wonderful lack of polish. With the aid of the Faloria cable car the approach is relatively short and the descent non-existent making it an ideal half a day out from Cortina. Traditionalists be warned - whilst this route offers a good physical challenge it lacks a few of the elements of the 'older' via ferratas. There are no war ruins, it doesn't have that same Alpine feel and the 'summit' is a busy plateau from which a number of winter ski lifts run.
Approach - Park at the Faloria lift station car park in the centre of Cortina (well signed). Take the cable car to the mid station at Mandres. From Mandres, follow path 206 to the east. After 10 minutes the path forks; take the right fork following signs for the via ferrata. The path was quite small but is now becoming more obvious and is marked with cairns and red paint. A steep but brief walk up the hillside brings you to a plaque and the start of the route.
Alternatively it is possible to walk from the lift station to Mandres following path 220. The path can be quite difficult to follow because it has been diverted several times as new construction work takes place.
VF - The route starts steeply up a vague arete giving you an immediate taste of what is to come. The rock here can be a bit greasy, particularly after rainfall, but it gets better the higher you go. Shortly after you reach a ledge which you follow right onto the next face. Climb this, heading vertically with excellent climbing and good exposure, until you reach another ledge. A rising right-trending traverse takes you around an arete that you climb on the right-hand side. Keep a lookout for the Faloria cable car which passes directly overhead. At the top of the arete another small traverse rightwards along a ledge drops you into a notch below a slightly loose looking short chimney. Climb this into a little amphitheatre with a ledge running through it at half height. Follow the ledge around the bowl until the path brings you underneath another steep arete. Climb this with the aid of numerous fixed stemples to the top and another ledge. This is the end of the main difficulties. Continue following the wire on easier ground until you top out at Faloria, just south of the cable car station.
Descent - The usual descent is via the Faloria cable car back down into Cortina.
For those wanting to descend on foot, path 212 to the south is the quickest. The path is steep with a number of switchbacks and brings you directly back down to Mandres at the Faloria cable car mid station. From here you can either take the cable car back down the rest of the way or follow the aforementioned path 220 signed towards Cortina. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The "Sci Club 18" is a demanding new via ferrata which winds its way up the Crepe di Faloria face, immediately beneath the cable car which leads up to the top of Monte Faloria above Cortina. This difficult and exposed ferrata offers spectacular views over the entire Ampezzo basin and was created by the Cortina Mountain Guides and the Faloria company with 700m of steel cables and more than 300 pins.

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This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - 13/Sep/15

Great route, my second time. Climbed it mostly "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock (clipping the cable only for protection) -- except for about five moves with Aid of cable or rungs (first time it was ten moves Aided). Lots of free moves in the Euro 5a-5c range, a few 6a. I'm guessing perhaps it all (except the ladder) goes free at Euro 6b or 6c. Problem with pushing free-climbing difficulty is what you hit if you fall (e.g. protruding rock horns, or fixed steel hardware). I used a special VF kit (Skylotec Skyrider) that if used correctly prevents any significant fall. Without that I'd grab the cable much more.
kenr - Solo - 09/Sep/15

bclifton - 07/Sep/15

IJHunt - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Fiona

Andy Fielding - Solo - 13/Aug/15

Really enjoyable VF! Didn't find it to difficult to say it gets a grade of 5B...
Tim Harper - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/15

Jim Malo - 18/Jul/15 with Mark

ali macphee - Solo - 11/Jul/15 with Hilary

Complete and utter choss pit but strangely enjoyable... Loved the big solid wall towards the end.
embob - Solo - 21/Jun/15 with Alex, Pa

Strenuous but very enjoyable - will wear gloves next time!
JulianD - Solo - 12/Sep/14 with Paul B, David H

yelotango - Solo - 24/Aug/14

dnf - retreated in the rain
hazeysunshine - 23/Aug/14 with Sharon, Cristina

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Aug/14

kb273 - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - 02/Sep/13

Marq - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Paul Lucas, Vicky Lisle, James Rowe

a lot of pulling on cable
Vicky L - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/13 with James R, Marq

Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
nblackbeard - 21/Aug/13 with Gemma Foster

Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
nblackbeard - 21/Aug/13 with Gemma Foster

Fun! approach from inter-mid station was 30mins,and Ferrata was about 90mins. In the morning, all section in shade.
moviti - Aug/13 with Norico

Easily accessible on paths without the cable car. Strenuous but not hard and very well cabled.
Mike-W-99 - 13/Jul/13 with Fiona

Probably more like VF4C than 5C.
Fiona Reid - 13/Jul/13 with Mike

jhobbs - 05/Jul/13 with Richard Harvey

Harvdog - 05/Jul/13 with John Hobbs

Steep, strenuous and exposed but not particularly technical. Good fun!
MariaT - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Dan Piddock

dpiddock - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Maria Walker

This VF has a fearsome reputation. After climbing it, my view is that it's not really deserved. Having said that, it is a fantastic via ferrata: steep and sustained climbing, loads of exposure, lots of variety, and it keeps throwing stuff at you. It's also really pretty and a crowd pleaser - listening to people gasp at someone on the ferrata while descending in the cable car is quite a rush! One of my favourite VFs - will do again.
sarahlizzy - 12/Aug/12 with Syv

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/12

Hidden - 27/May/12

Griff87 - Jul/11

Griff87 - Jul/11

Hidden - Solo - 18/Aug/10

Hidden - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - 09/Sep/09

Dunx - 2009

Total votes cast 19
hard VF5C0 of 9
VF5C1 of 9
easy VF5C3 of 9
hard VF5B0 of 9
VF5B4 of 9
easy VF5B1 of 9
hard VF5A0 of 9
VF5A0 of 9
easy VF5A0 of 9
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S