Rockfax Description
Well-positioned moves on the headwall. The lower moves are easy, but the climbing builds up nicely to a first-class crux sequence. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 28.3.97 28/Mar/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

dannygale 17/May Lead O/S
with Simon, Shane
simo 17/May Lead dnf
with Shane, Fireman Dan
bryan61 01/May Lead dog
with karolina
simonr 23/Apr Lead dog
Nick Clement 31/Mar Lead rpt
with mandy clement
Paul Figg 28/Mar Lead
with Rachel Antill
Nick Clement 25/Mar Lead
with mandy clement
FlavioL1989 21/Nov/15 Lead RP
LJC 08/Oct/15 TR O/S

Cleaning the draws.

with Phill, George
Hidden 08/Oct/15 TR β
tomwright1509 27/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jul/15 Lead dog
Rockmonkey1977 04/Jul/15 Lead dog

Very enjoyable, tricky crux right at the top! Should go clean next attempt, especially using Angela's beta rather than my dyno technique!

xiangoh ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 TR dog
Adamwillclimb 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
Julie Carroll 07/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Leiko
ArrMcC 06/Jun/15 TR dog

Really cool route. Was too pumped on the crux to get it clean. Will need to come back to this one.

Chloe 06/Jun/15 Lead dog

Worked the top moves. Should get it clean soon.

with Arran
L.miura 25/May/15 Lead RP
with Julie Carroll
Nick Russell 23/May/15 Lead RP

Second go after working a sequence for the top. Cool moves, probably high in the grade.

Hidden 23/May/15 Lead RP
paultaylor 15/May/15 Lead RP
with Jimbo
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/May/15 Lead rpt
with Steph
mikespooner 19/Apr/15 Lead dog
with Ethan Howe, Jonathan Terry
leglesslizard 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
Dibdawg 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

Another nails finish as with so many of the routes along this sector!

lewiz 22/Mar/15 Lead dnf
with Beata
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Feb/15 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jan/15 Lead dnf
martin one 29/Nov/14 TR dnf
with Markus
OliverRoss 02/Nov/14 Lead dnf

Too bouldery for me, not enough time to work it.

with Caesar
nacnud 23/Aug/14 Lead
CallumSmith 11/Jul/14 TR
samparsons 28/Jun/14 Lead
pymn nice but dim 26/Jun/14 Lead dog

pumped out in the upper short rest and finished

Ian Bell 15/Jun/14 TR dog

Quick repeat trying to share beta for Tania, still class route

spidermonkey09 09/Jun/14 Lead RP

Got there in the end. Felt 7a for the top section- hard!

Jack93 08/Jun/14 Lead RP

Easy climbing up to the first roof! Sort of like a 6a with a boulder problem on top of it

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/May/14 Lead rpt
Steph Roberts 25/May/14 TR dog

A new project.

with Rob Gates, Sam
James Beaumont 24/May/14 Lead RP
thomb 11/May/14 Lead O/S
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 11/May/14 Lead RP

Second go after an unwise decision on the headwall blew the onsight.

Alex Winter 09/May/14 Lead dog

Got badly spanked by this. I was absolutely shagged by the time I got round to trying it, but I still reckon it's pretty hard for 6c+. Top sequence is great. Nearly got it second RP.

with Ben's stag
Mouse Matt 05/May/14 Lead dog
Caspian Johnson 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tor
Rosea Day ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
will moy 21/Mar/14 Lead
with tom thorne
Hidden 21/Mar/14 TR dog
Dan_Carroll 05/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Debbage
LucasHarazin 06/Oct/13 Lead RP
KDhruev 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Lainy
Elaine Budden 05/Oct/13 Lead RP

Amazing climbing getting progressively harder.

with Rosa, Keiha
BenL 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
philhaigh 22/Jul/13 TR dog
with Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead dog
mike.rigby 14/Jul/13 TR
ben.phillips 13/Jul/13 TR dog
3 Names 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
jwpil 23/Jun/13 Lead RP

Fell once on first attempt, clean ground up second time. Brill crux.

Jonathan Emett 23/Jun/13 Lead dog

couple of gos but no didn't push for the last move!

with ben
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
dale1968 25/May/13 TR
with leon
Steve27 04/May/13 TR


LukeyG 28/Apr/13 Lead
joshchalke 28/Apr/13 TR dnf
with bradfry
Jen 'Banksy' Banks ?/Apr/13 TR dog
with Stefan
Stefan_Morris ?/Apr/13 TR
with jenny
Stefan_Morris 23/Mar/13 Lead RP
with jenny
dprctr 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Abbed of penultimate bolt. Quite scary to climb when sopping wet. Obviously!

with Claudina Tasso
Hidden 15/Jan/13 Lead dog
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead O/S
petegunn 30/Oct/12 Lead
with Davina
dan gibson 17/Oct/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Helen Gibson 17/Oct/12 TR dog
with Julie
stevorobs3 20/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead dog
philhaigh 03/Jun/12 Lead RP
theotherpetehill 03/Jun/12 Lead dog

Fell off last moves to jug before chain

with Tom Codrington
tcn_2002 03/Jun/12 Lead
Jonathan Emett 28/May/12 Lead rpt

retro-flash! well pleased.

with siwan
La Mont 26/May/12 -
with Matt Perks
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead
chrisgee45 23/May/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 20/May/12 Lead RP

2nd RP attempt. First time fell on the top move.

with Eva
philhaigh 19/May/12 Lead dog


nataliehaigh 19/May/12 2nd dnf
philhaigh 16/May/12 Lead dog

Fell of the crux 3 times, but each time got straight back on and did it.. frustrating, but next time....!

with Murray Freestone
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead RP
Paul Bowen 12/May/12 Lead dog
lewiz 05/May/12 Lead dog

Need to remember the big slopey jug at the top next time...

Ian Bell 22/Apr/12 Lead dog

Putting in the clips

Ian Bell 22/Apr/12 TR dog

One fall, ready to RP then started raining.

yarrow 31/Mar/12 TR dog
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd dog
Laurence Everitt 31/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
patrickc 11/Mar/12 TR dog
with Sue
lewiz 21/Jan/12 Lead dog
Dandan82 21/Jan/12 Lead RP
David Staples ??/2012 TR RP
John Mcshea 27/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/11 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 24/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Toby
Toby Dunn 24/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead dog
Jenn Porter 10/Dec/11 TR

with beta on last 2 moves - didn't get last move though :)

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 10/Dec/11 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Oct/11 Lead RP

Second go. Fell off on the onsight.

with Rob
Ali.B 30/Sep/11 Lead RP
dereke12000 11/Sep/11 TR dnf

Started out of curiosity...

with Rich
Kopinski 21/Aug/11 Lead RP
Alex More 11/Jul/11 Lead dog

note to self: must train lock off strength, fell almost at the chains 2nd go in total, will go next time!

with Kyle Fayers, Ed babs
Kopinski 22/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead RP
dereke12000 25/Apr/11 TR dnf

Got two thirds of the way up, just as an experiment, will come back when not so tired.

with Rich
Marti999 13/Apr/11 Lead rpt
ThomasB ?/Apr/11 Lead β


Jonathan Emett 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
Radical-G 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
tobydunford 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Nov/10 TR dog
Ben Harper 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Baby A
andy jennings 06/Nov/10 Lead dog
with ben
Jonathan Emett 27/Oct/10 Lead dog
with ed
garywong 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
GarethHall 17/Oct/10 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 26/Sep/10 Lead RP

2nd go, with a slap - fantastic!

with ben
Hidden 25/Sep/10 TR dog
Stefan Kruger 19/Sep/10 Lead RP
vertigo 18/Jul/10 Lead RP

Went pretty easily after deciding (reluctantly) to do the last move static. Quality route. Could squeeze in at soft 7a.

MarkRyder 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
gb05 06/Jul/10 2nd dog
trev_f 03/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Mike windsurfer, Magnus, Mel
dale1968 01/Jul/10 TR dog
with Tom
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead
with Duncan
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead RP
Mowglee 04/Apr/10 Lead dog

I am not strong enough.

with Ali
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/10 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Feb/10 TR dog
mark_wellin 06/Feb/10 Lead rpt

7a in the new guide... 6c is right

sam_cox 06/Feb/10 Lead β
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
natalietanzer ??/2010 Lead
with nacnud
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead dnf
dswansonlow 15/Nov/09 Lead dog

Fell once at the mantle section.

with sarp
brian watson 15/Nov/09 Lead dog
jacobjlloyd 07/Nov/09 Lead RP

Fell off it at the end of a session months ago. Not a big rp fan, but I remembered the quality of the final crux sequence - so sweet I had to do it again right after I sent it!

Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
michael burrows 16/Sep/09 TR
with rob geaves
Ed Babs 21/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Jeronimo 23/Apr/09 Lead rpt

great rote. The bottoms easy, the tops fingery and sequency. Worked out the moves, then got it clean.

with Dave Thompson, Pete & Mark
DrGav 12/Apr/09 Lead dog

foiled by wrong beta and crap stamina. brilliant crux.

dmoir 27/Feb/09 Lead RP
feilx 20/Dec/08 Lead dog
with Heather
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 30/Aug/08 Lead dog
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the crux. Holds were tiny.

with Carl
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead RP
Monk 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Mandy
Neil Adams 16/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Elizabeth
Stephen Roberts 01/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
ecowaller 18/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 25/Feb/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Lloyders ??/2007 TR
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Richard Horn 16/Jul/06 Lead RP
givemetea 30/Jun/06 2nd dnf
with Ann Chong
Hidden 25/May/06 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Aug/03 Lead RP
CrashMat Rob 31/Jul/01 Lead dog
with Nicky
Kevster ??/1996 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ellie Fuller, RFWilkie, Hidden, Joe Black, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set