|85m, 4 pitches. |
An incredible link-up that forces a chilling line through some of the Great Cave's most daunting territory. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof..
1) 5b, 16m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche. Pull up rightwards to easier ground and take a hanging belay below a right-leaning rib above..
2) 6c, 20m. Climb up steeply until it is possible to make a bunched traverse rightwards past pegs and threads. Make a safe, but very hard move into, and out of an open groove to gain sloping holds above. Continue up on good holds to a bush, then traverse left above the roof to a hanging stance below the corner and capping roof of Dreadnought..
3) 6b, 20m. Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left to gain a thin horizontal flake which is followed out over the lip of the roof to some hard moves past a square block to the bulge above, peg. Pull through the bulge, thread, and small overlap above to gain a thin break, peg. With difficulty, climb the groove above to an overlap then head up leftwards to a peg-belay..
4) 6a, 32m. Move left to a white scoop and climb it to a vague break in a long overhang. Pull through the overhang to flat holds that lead rightwards, thread, to a ledge. Climb the short groove to a blank face above, past a peg, and make hard moves up until better holds lead out right to a ledge. Finish on good holds above. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps there is such a thing as a four star route?
Ken Palmer 1998
Ticklists: West Country Climbs.