Rockfax Description
A cracker. Short but steep, varied and surprisingly pumpy. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 29.8.92 29/Aug/1992

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

chiverstom 30/Aug Lead O/S
Tru 02/Aug Lead RP

Awesome route finally got the tick, good feet at the top helps.

Sam4242 18/Jul Lead G/U
will black 05/Jul Lead rpt

Retro flash, still felt pumpy as hell at the top!

Linc 13/Jun Lead β
with Rob
rd20 08/Mar TR dnf
with Vince L
Hidden 07/Mar Lead dnf
MontyH 01/Feb TR
with Brian
brian watson 01/Feb TR RP

Top roped cleaned after dogging lead

Alex Handley ??/2015 Lead O/S

Good but Vulcanites is the main event

with Adam
Sam4242 10/Sep/14 Lead dog

fall last hold

Harvdog 23/Aug/14 TR
with Olly Dewhirst
Wilbur 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Vinny
Vince 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Will
RKirke 14/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Aaron B, Liam Day
lday 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Got it clean apart from the very last move allowing to clip. So grabbed the draws

JackMac 25/May/14 Lead dog

One to come back for fresh. Nice moves.

with Dave
Marcin78 ?/May/14 Lead rpt
with Andy
Rupey 15/Apr/14 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead β
BenL 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
ad111 23/Aug/13 Lead dog
ianstevens 23/Aug/13 Lead dnf
R2B 04/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Couldn't find the top holds on the first go.

with Crispin
jonleighton 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Nearly onsighted but I messed up the beta quite a bit, it was bloody hot, and I lunged for a hold at the top which didn't exist.

Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ben harding
timharrison 18/Mar/13 TR dog
with Matt Carwardine
mattc 18/Mar/13 TR
with tim
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Jobbo 09/Dec/12 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 07/Nov/12 Lead RP
tscoobydoo 15/Sep/12 Sent O/S
Jobbo 02/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
rxmac 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Bish
kermit_uk 26/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Ian
timharrison 03/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Matt Carwardine
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Dec/11 Lead RP
Rupey 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead RP
dan gibson 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Joe Black 03/Oct/11 Lead RP

amazing route work out the moves and its only the pump that can stop you.

will black 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
mattc 25/Sep/11 Lead dnf
bikeguerra 15/Sep/11 Lead dog

awesome, will get it clean next time, cant wait

ASchwirtz 10/Sep/11 Lead RP

2nd attempt

with Ben Harper
mrmoe17 09/Sep/11 Lead dnf

hard climb, very pumpy. failed 2 moves from top

Gazleah 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with joey gilham
timharrison 11/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Matt Carwardine
mattc 11/Aug/11 Lead dnf
timharrison 10/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Matt Carwardine
tom.ireson 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Got way too pumped for the final moves first time then got it on second go, just! Really did not expect to get quite so pumped then end up above the clip on sketchy footholds. A test of nerves as well as brute force, highly recommended and not soft at the grade.

with Stewart Terry, Sarah Procter
timharrison 17/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
Jonathan Emett 29/May/11 Lead RP

1st go today. still pumped beyond belief though! really glad to finally get it.

with ben
Jonathan Emett 28/May/11 Lead dog

2 gos. nearly got it second go but back clipped the last clip and couldn't fix it.

fildac ?/May/11 Lead dnf
La Mont 02/Apr/11 -
with jane weir
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29/Jan/11 Lead RP
samtucker 22/Jan/11 TR dnf
MarkRyder 09/Dec/10 Lead RP
with Lee
feilx 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf

dark and tired

with Andy L
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 25/Sep/10 Lead RP

Second go. Final hold is hard to spot, and popping for the chronically dusty top had me off in a sprinkle of pebbles and dirt. Some lovely moves, and unusually it feels improved by the polish?! You've got to love a route where the final move is the crux.

with Febrizio, John Scarrott
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR RP
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/10 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise ?/Aug/10 2nd dog
Roberto 25/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead RP
brices 02/May/10 Lead RP
3 Names 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead β
GarethHall 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf
with Philip George
Hidden 28/Mar/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Mar/10 Lead RP
dale1968 17/Oct/09 TR
with Tom
Noodles 06/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Get your big guns out. Pumped too the max. Will return and nail this and the one next door.

sthame 05/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Chris_barr 25/Jun/09 Lead RP
vertigo 21/Jun/09 Lead RP
JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
hippo99 19/Apr/09 Lead β
with sam em
matt green(uni) ?/Apr/09 Lead RP
Dandan82 ?/Apr/09 Lead β
with matt green
sam_cox ?/Apr/09 Lead β
Vince 22/Feb/09 TR dog
with Nick Sexton
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead RP
archiecb 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
Reeges 07/Feb/09 Lead O/S
mark_wellin ??/2009 TR O/S
DaveFidler ??/2009 Lead RP

Did crux onsight, wimped out on top section. lowered to ground, pulled rope. Sent. Local told me it was 6b+, until I did it. First 6c.

Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead β
FrostyWebb 25/Sep/08 Lead dog

big roof, very pumpy, very nice

with Chloe
Hidden 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 03/Aug/08 Lead dnf
with Matt, Geoff
Matt Bennett 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt
thomb ?/Aug/08 Solo
with Pete
nblackbeard 21/Jul/08 Lead dog

dogged so we could work on top rope. Lovely Climb :-)

jw231 21/Jul/08 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
Ben Tyrrell 17/May/08 Lead O/S
feilx 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Andy L
georgel 22/Mar/08 Lead RP

not as good as vulcanites

with will
catt 21/Mar/08 Lead

Flashed. Had previously done The Vulcanites. Felt easy for 6c.

with Richie
Hidden 18/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 21/Jan/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
trevor macalonan 03/Dec/06 Lead dog
with Tim
timharrison 03/Dec/06 2nd
timharrison 18/Nov/06 Lead dog
bigie bob 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
bronsonite 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
mrblue ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with James
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
A Longleat Boulderer ??/2006 Lead
with John Hemps
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Lloyders ??/2006 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kevster ?/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 29/May/05 Lead β
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Floris
Hidden 29/May/04 -
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/02 Lead RP
FrankW 14/Jan/01 Lead rpt
with Joe
FrankW 01/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 25/Oct/99 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Lee Bartrop
r0b 19/Oct/96 Lead RP
buzby78 22/May/96 Lead O/S
Roget 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
goi.ashmore 18/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
kristian ??/1995 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead dnf

Been on it countless times since '94. Every time I find the crack moves so strenuous I have nothing for the finish. Seeing a friend almost deck off the top (pulled loads of slack to clip then tried to climb past the lower-off with it in his mouth!) didn't help either.

with Rich Howard
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 17/Oct/92 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, alexjz, Hidden, Hidden, Wurzel, jameswhitty, mm1982, Dave89, Hidden, cha1n, Vince, trevor macalonan, silhouette, Ezy Ryder, nblackbeard
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set