Transcript Direct* HVS 5a
[Skyhook (and one of his rare gear placements), 4 kb]10m.

Rockfax Description
Good, physical climbing up the steep corner and narrow chimney/crack. A forceful approach pays dividends but don't forget to place the bomber gear. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Skyhook (and one of his rare gear placements) © phantom whistler
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 194 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Good gear but hard going. It is all over in about 12m but every hold is hard won.
Dave Mahon - Lead - 15/Aug/15 with Brian Mead

LJC - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/15 with Mark

One small whipper
Ciderslider - Lead - 29/Jul/15 with Luca, Ben

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/15

Jan.Hrb - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/15 with Ales

samohtdoowde - 2nd dog - 10/Feb/15 with Sam Ford

mattc - Lead dnf - 02/Jan/15

ian bryant - 2015

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Dec/14

Hidden - TR - 03/Aug/14

brian watson - TR - 03/Aug/14 with bob mott

riff156 - Lead dog - 06/Jul/14 with Jo Smith

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Felt quite greasy. Didn't enjoy the bottom section!
Pintsize - 2nd - 25/May/14 with Will Benfold

Hidden - TR rpt - 16/May/14

RosePearson - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14 with Becky Howard

leohl - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Jonathon Cook

elbeanio - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13

Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Hector Prieto

hector - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Julian Prieto

Moved right at halfway and finished on Paralysis
danJBA - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Matt Roberts, James Hoar

It was a bit greasy on the key handholds.
RKirke - Lead RP - 26/May/13

AlexD - Lead β - 21/Apr/13 with Scott

Lead the first half, then strayed unintentionally onto Paralysis, E2 5C. Couldn't do that and came down. Tim top roped to my high point and finished the route.
neilwiltshire - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Tim Cooper

daviesp2 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

riff156 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Hannahc

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2013

ianto - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Stroppy - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with Rob Thomas

Lots of seepage on the route, crucial holds were slightly polished and soaking wet.
windle - Lead dog - 12/Sep/12 with james barry

backed off, cracks damp & line looked unappealing once on the route so didn't seem worth it
alastairbegley - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/12

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/12

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/12 with Alan, Scott

Finally got around to leading this, with Scott's helpful comments at the crux confirming my worst fears of the "trick".
Monkey_Alan - Lead β - 13/Jun/12 with Sophie Nunn, Scott Titt

Hidden - TR - 26/May/12

took over from john after going of line
martin clarke - Lead - 06/May/12 with nick andrews, john frost

At the bottom of the chimney moved to the right into Paralysis (E2) and then moved back into the chimney. Off the route I guess, not really gradable, but still interesting climb, I fell off a year ago.
andrzej kierzek - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Tara

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

A bit of a struggle but clean this time - what a great climb !
Ciderslider - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/12 with Mick Ward

Pretty straightforward if you bridge out the corner most the way
LukeyG - Lead - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Very wet, but I made a complete dogs of it this time - fell off twice and gave up
Ciderslider - Lead dnf - 29/Feb/12 with LukeyG

PAJames - 2012

Pete Scott - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11

petecallaghan - 2nd dog - 23/Oct/11 with Nick Donohue

Boogs - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/11 with Scott Titt

Get in there, you beauty ! Finally nemesis led, all be it not an onsight - but still very happy. What a great climb (bit damp today though).
Ciderslider - Lead - 26/Sep/11

After climbing badly all day didn't feel up to leading what I thought would be a real arm buster. Managed to climb it easily on top rope (and wish I had lead it). Next time. A really good climb (which stays in the obvious corner all the way up - slightly awkward move to left to gain upper crack, but its all there - looks like loads of gear placements as well).
Ciderslider - TR O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Nick

took a rest at crux
hotfeet - Lead - 17/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Sep/11

oodie72 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Alan Mountford

ok so i managed to end up leaving the corner and straying onto Paralysis which is the E2 5c,deciding itt felt bloody hard for Vs moved back into the corner chimney! Spoke to the legend Scott Titt who cleared things up for me explaining that "the line shown in the rockfax dorset guide is not very accurate and you should stick to the corner as the first ascentionist would have done". A pleasure meating you Scott and thanx again!
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/11

martin one - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/11 with Gareth

jamespilgrim - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Mark

haydng - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with RachelG

sambosanquet101 - Lead - 21/May/11 with Francy Carranza

Nearly lost a finger! stuck my hand in the pocket above the first bulge and then spent the next few minutes trying to get it back out! The rest of the climb felt incredibly hard after that as my right leg had got massively pumped but I think it is quite tricky anyway. Bomber gear all the way but only if you can stop to place it......
tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with David Proctor

dprctr - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Tom Ireson

Nails! No way VS!
Ceridwen - Lead dnf - 09/May/11 with Alex Dennis

RossT - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Tim Bee, Andrew Edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

gingergeorge - Lead - Apr/11 with Glen Bloomer

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Mar/11

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Scott

jcook1980 - Lead - 2011

steve newman - 2011

Very hard first few moves.
Andy Chubb - Lead - 10/Oct/10 with Jim Mulvaney

francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 08/Oct/10 with Haven Banks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/10

adrianjenner - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Tom Bailey

andycash - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with charlie o'brian

Steady climbing to a rats move over the slab into the corner. Be VERY careful with a direct finish over the stacked blocks.
Zoomer - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Alex Rafferty

Hidden - 21/May/10

greasy hot
dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/10 with Tom

Either we both climbed this completely wrong or it is a total stitch up at the grade. Not fun.
The Ivanator - 2nd - 03/May/10 with Stewart

brian watson - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with anne marie sheppard

Was coming round the bottom of the roof, fliddling some gear in, a bit gripped when a massive wave washed over the belay ledge! Soaked Chris and me! Retreated down the the ledge and were just thinking of what to do when another massive wave soaked us to the skin again. We jugged up the ab rope and went off for a cup of tea!
bigbobbyking - Lead dnf - 27/Feb/10 with Chris Allan

finally managed to get round the roof.
uncontrollable - Lead RP - 20/Feb/10 with Des

Indy Nile - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Frodo Stickel

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/09

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/09 with Chris Weedon

colkurtz - 2nd - Sep/09 with Matt, Robb

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/09

mol - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 22/Aug/09 with Molly Thompson

Darrell Read - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Oliver Mentz

henbot - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with Ben Bradford

uncontrollable - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/09 with Alan B

Tryed going straight up the chimney not noticing the massive flake on the right. Clean next time.
breed - Lead dog - 16/Jun/09 with Kyle Fayers

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/09

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 06/Jun/09 with Lee

Kyle F - 2nd - Jun/09

Sandrine - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Halfwaythere

djking1983 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/09 with Rich Brammall

Bram - Lead - 28/May/09 with Dave King

martin one - Lead rpt - 24/May/09 with dave knight

An after work climb :) Bit of an effort I thought?
jezb1 - Lead - 14/Apr/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Rebecca Holland

Beck Holland - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with Dan_Carroll

Attempted to join Paralysis (unintentionally) at the point where one regains the corner. Was rather concerned for a bit, but an attack of sanity brought me back to the line, and left me happy.
cmsg - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Matthieu Gaudat

somehow missed the line and finished over Paralysis (in a very dogged way) wondering why VS feels so hard
uncontrollable - Lead dog - 28/Feb/09 with Viskii

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

sdht - 2009

hrgcb - 2009 with Joe Prinold

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/08

djking1983 - Lead - 29/Aug/08 with Andy Smith

JDSwain - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/08 with sam cox

sam_cox - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with John Swain

haydng - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 10/May/08 with haydng

tobydunford - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08 with Lisa Paling

LiLaMont - 2nd β - 26/Apr/08 with Toby Dunford

Had bit of a fight on this, think secret is dont stray from corner onto wall. I new-routed Transcript Indirect
manwithacam - Lead - 06/Apr/08 with caiwei

Simon Allcock - Lead - Apr/08 with nick

got my calves well pumped on the second! phew!
w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 24/Mar/08 with david coley

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/08

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 2008 with Scott Swalling

Kirill - 2nd - 31/Oct/07 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/07 with Kirill Spiridonov

aged_ape - Oct/07 with Alex B

riddle - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/07

MontyH - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

jchenoweth - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Fat Alan

alexrp - 2nd - 17/May/07 with Tony F

andyfeds - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/07 with Neil T

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

eldre070 - 2nd dog - 03/Feb/07 with Paul Rigg

Rob Kennard - 2007

Southern Mark Smith - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - TR - 30/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/06

Brucifer - 2nd - Aug/06 with alan rosier

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06

dan gibson - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Dec/05

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/05

timharrison - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Soaking wet!
steve taylor - 2nd β - 01/May/05 with Scott Titt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/05

Marq - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/05 with Jamie (Craggy Island)

Alaric - Lead - 20/Jun/04 with Neil, Karen B

timharrison - 2nd - 15/May/04 with Reuben

Boxy - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/04

ellie macpherson - TR - 17/May/03 with mike henesey

Richard Horn - 2003

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/01

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/00 with Joe

Hidden - TR - 23/Jan/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

akamini - Lead - Apr/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

jl - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/97 with Scuzz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

nacnud - Lead - 09/Nov/96

cem - 2nd - Sep/96 with Graham Dolman

tracyclimber - Lead - 06/Oct/95

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Apr/95

Dringo - 1995

colin milton - TR - 17/Sep/94 with eric milton

jim_randell - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/94 with FW

MoWalker3 - 19/Nov/89

steve taylor - Lead O/S - Apr/89 with mark grover

Nigel Coe - Solo - 14/Jul/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

Had previously seconded this route. Partner and date not known. Early 1980,s.
Russell Lovett - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/84 with unknown

Nigel Coe - TR - 22/Jun/83 with Tim Dunsby

Nigel Coe - Lead - 20/Jun/80 with John Walmsley

Nigel Coe - Lead - 02/Sep/79 with Frank Farrell

Chris Terrey - Lead - May/78 with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford

Nigel Bond - Lead - 27/Jul/74 with Dave Jolliffe, Pete Dainty

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Graham C

Total votes cast 133
hard E10 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E10 of 50
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS2 of 50
easy HVS27 of 50
hard VS13 of 50
VS8 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 44
5b0 of 44
easy 5b3 of 44
hard 5a11 of 44
5a27 of 44
easy 5a3 of 44
hard 4c0 of 44
4c0 of 44
easy 4c0 of 44
3 Stars1 of 39
2 Stars14 of 39
1 Star20 of 39
0 Stars3 of 39
Bag of .....1 of 39
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP