Rockfax Description
An all-time favourite of the area that pleases time after time. Start by the bad step in the ledge, and follow the thin crack past a rusty peg to an easing. The appealing, smooth-looking wall on the right is taken intricately to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, subluminal A to Z .....almost, Get out on Rock, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender.

elfka 23/Oct Lead O/S
with Hugo Gibson
David Sz 23/Oct Lead O/S
with Ollie
Matt.c.Warner 20/Oct Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 04/Oct 2nd rpt
with Liz Y, Phil
LJC 03/Oct 2nd rpt
with Phill
mark4344 25/Sep 2nd
with Matt Payne
Cyborg 12/Sep 2nd dog
ChrisH_273 12/Sep Lead G/U
onlyfoddington 09/Sep Lead O/S

Felt relatively in control (apart from when trying to place gear).

with Ian
ian d f 09/Sep 2nd rpt
musgravet 04/Sep Lead O/S
chris cockbain 04/Sep 2nd O/S
StefanP ?/Sep Lead
Graham Baxter 30/Aug Lead O/S
with John O'Grady
Pete_Frost 28/Aug 2nd rpt

Very nice, deserves its three stars.

with Andy Hemsted
BarrySW19 15/Aug 2nd O/S
with Jon
SenzuBean 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Barry
andycash 09/Aug Lead O/S
Youngmre 08/Aug 2nd
with ryan mcconnell
LJC 07/Aug Lead rpt
with Marion
Jamesmoly 04/Aug 2nd O/S
Laramadness 04/Aug Lead O/S
with RF
LJC 29/Jul Lead rpt
with Mark
Ciderslider 29/Jul 2nd rpt

1st with Ben

with Ben
Ciderslider 29/Jul 2nd rpt

Then with Luca :-) Great route done twice

with Luca
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
ian d f 17/Jul TR rpt
with shunt
KDhruev 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Rich
A Jackson 11/Jul Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 05/Jul 2nd dog
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 05/Jul Lead O/S
ian d f 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Liz F
Dizz 24/Jun Lead O/S
with Ian F
Hidden 13/Jun Lead
Jan.Hrb 13/Jun Lead O/S
with Ales
Steve_T_Taylor 08/Jun 2nd O/S
with louise kennedy
mattprince 08/Jun Lead O/S
with Craig Fox
RosePearson 30/May Lead O/S

Warmup - it was nice

with Matt Kingston
LakesWinter 27/May Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May 2nd
Hidden 23/May Lead β
markfromstoke 10/May 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 10/May Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 01/May 2nd O/S
MontyH 15/Apr TR O/S
with brian and Pete
tcn_2002 12/Apr 2nd
Dan0Me 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Moritz
BRoe ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
Hidden 14/Feb Lead rpt
ian bryant ??/2015 -
euge74 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Tim Dunsby
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Stu.Cossey 06/Dec/14 Lead
Matt1234 05/Nov/14 Lead RP
timmsy 22/Oct/14 2nd

not 'that' good.

felixizzy 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Greasy, remembering chalk would of helped.

with Mike
Mike Turner 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
EllieWoods 20/Sep/14 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 TR
lcullum7 11/Sep/14 2nd β
SarahA 11/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead
Stanners 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not quite as good as its meant to be I dont think?! late in the day I reckon with saw feet and thirst! was a bit close to the VD at mid height?

with Andy G
brian watson 30/Aug/14 TR
with shunt
Ian MK 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 30/Aug/14 2nd
with Ian
Sam4242 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 15/Aug/14 Lead rpt

This time going the correct way rather than straying into Grandmas Groove.

Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Echna 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
brian watson 09/Aug/14 TR rpt
with shunt
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
petrch 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Prater-Rushton
nige pacer 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
Hidden 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead rpt
andy_pemberton 24/Jul/14 2nd
with Steve Gibson
RFWilkie 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Sort of, actually did about the bottom 3rd then drifted into grandmas groove. Thought it seemed tricky for VS!

Thinker01 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Becster
Tom Gregory 06/Jul/14 TR
with Jenny Page
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
don pfaff ?/Jul/14 TR
with Daisy Waring
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Tom Gregory 22/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Jenny Page
Montecore 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Hard and scary. Also nothing special...not sure why the 3 stars

with Matt Ray
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead
Justin T 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Nancy
SuperLee1985 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climb, and not a hard vs as some voters seem to think. Plenty of gear, plenty of rests, some nice delicate moves, highly recommended.

with simon gale, stevie lee
StevieLee 25/May/14 2nd O/S
MPSBunny 24/May/14 2nd
Brannock 24/May/14 Lead
Gareth 16/May/14 TR rpt
with on shunt
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd rpt
islandlynx ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Jack J Keogan 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Lottie Thorne
Lottie Thorne 24/Apr/14 2nd dog

loved the top of this, found the bottom half tricky to hold on to- need to be stronger

Sophie Nunn 17/Apr/14 TR rpt
mattc 17/Mar/14 2nd β
TimKnight 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Got drawn a little left at the start but the fun's at the top anyway

with Dave Marshall
Dhonny_Jaws 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
harry_lewis ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Jed
jedster1111 ??/2014 2nd
Sophie Nunn 29/Dec/13 TR rpt
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead rpt
arandall 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Would have been better if the peg wasn't so rusty, but really good climb.

with Dom
Wendy Watthews 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Alex p, joe c
andork123 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S

felt oddly sustained, loved it!

with Joe c, Wendy Watthews
JoeCoxson 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome delicate route, took a few minutes to sort out what I was doing at the start, then the climbing was fine with good gear.

with Alex Poyzer, Wendy Matthews
Dominic Taylor 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Sweaty fingers!!

with Alex, Joe
David Mayers 15/Nov/13 Lead
with Paul Widdowson
petecallaghan 10/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with Jamie Trump, David Coley
sheelba 29/Oct/13 TR
John Foster 17/Oct/13 Lead
with Geoff
Hidden 16/Oct/13 2nd rpt
brian watson 06/Oct/13 TR rpt
with shunt
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Jevans ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Kitesurfer.alex1990 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
clarendon 16/Sep/13 2nd
with Tris
Topsy Turvy 16/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mike P
Topsy Turvy 16/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mike P
Dan Hostford 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
will_benfold 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Palfreman
cameron_hall 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mes32 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Cameron
OliverRoss 25/Aug/13 2nd β
with Alkis
Alkis 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First lead of the weekend and first lead in Swanage, which meant pumped and running up, placing very little gear!

Matt77 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Owen
Luxulyan 28/Jul/13 2nd
with Kev Brown
Wevcore 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Rich
Geoffers 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Tim
Matthew Robinson 25/Jul/13 Lead
with Joe
skunky456 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Katya 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alex Bryant 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Katya
Cheese Monkey 17/Jul/13 Lead β

Climbed too far too the left and missed all the fun stuff. Luckily Pete pointed it out and was happy to belay me on it again so I could do it properly! Good route

with Pete
halfwaythere 17/Jul/13 2nd
with ben
Ronan72 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BenNorman 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lovely little route, good to feel comfortable a little run out and well within myself on the climbing, 3 stars

brices 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
chriswood 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 07/Jul/13 2nd dog

Made a bit of a dogs of the lower section (and was a bit off route)

with Ben
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/13 TR
Bert 14/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Beautiful climb

Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd
Luxulyan 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
ellmang 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

Dogged the lead then abbed in and seconded the route to collect gear. Felt easy on top rope afterwards. Loads of gear.

Didymus 06/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Nick
Sophie Nunn 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Scott
torsok 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Took gear nicely, provided great photo opportunity and challenged with consistently sound climbing at the grade well worthy of rating

with Pete B, sabrina
Topsy Turvy ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Mike P
clarendon ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Tris
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 24/May/13 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 21/May/13 2nd O/S

Favorite climb of the day, sustained climbing all the way up, great to get that pumped & accomplished feeling!

martin one 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Neil Nand
TommyA 13/May/13 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 13/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
jon_gill1 05/May/13 2nd rpt
with ross garfoot
tedburt 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
philmcf ?/May/13 TR
Alfredo 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Ben H
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
reece.robinson 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf
illwizod 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Bown, Dave Raymen
Monkey_Alan 13/Jan/13 2nd
Lawrence Dudley 13/Jan/13 Lead
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 2nd
JCAshman 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S
mark schramm 27/Oct/12 Lead β

with Jamie
nickstephens 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Emma Grant
Jamiet297 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Kirill 30/Sep/12 Lead dog

French free.

with Alexey Kravets
ASchwirtz 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
matt.jj 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
brew_guru 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Simply awesome ***

rustyfishhook 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S

EPIC! Hat off to Paul, not in a million years for me me old mucker. Great route though, deserves it's TOP 50!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

joe hallam 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

AWESOME! crux low

with greg williams
andycash 30/Aug/12 TR O/S
with chris day
alastairbegley 28/Aug/12 Lead dnf

backed off into the corner before the blank wall, didn't fancy falling onto micro wires. Felt more like HVS than VS

GPN 26/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
selbs83 23/Aug/12 2nd
budchawla 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Warm-up - great little route

johnpuddephatt 18/Aug/12 Lead RP

Terrifying - either a hand or foot popped off unexpectedly just after clipping the peg as the evening mist had made everything very greasy. Did clean second time but with absolutely no confidence.

with Ryan Mole
RyMole 18/Aug/12 2nd RP

Greasy, damp conditions.

mattyork2 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really great face climbing on this one after a little bit of a tricky start.

with Johnny Richard
Hidden 09/Aug/12 TR rpt
Anthony Dixon 04/Aug/12 Lead
Dax 04/Aug/12 TR O/S
with RhysP
Geoffers 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Lauren, Tim
Headjamm 29/Jul/12 2nd
with Geoff
Gareth 27/Jul/12 TR rpt
with on shunt
The Biochemist 25/Jul/12 Lead β
djking1983 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Moved onto after start on E2

kelliroberts3 30/Jun/12 2nd
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 13/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Alan, Scott
Monkey_Alan 13/Jun/12 Lead rpt

A complete wobbler! Got there eventually, but far from good style.

Stroppy 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Sam Husband 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Ed
tombushell 04/Jun/12 Lead
with John Bushell, Roger Kirke
RKirke ?/Jun/12 -
halfwaythere 24/May/12 TR rpt
with jarod
wi11 22/May/12 2nd β
Graham Westbrook 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with wi11
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
jon_ridley 06/May/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
UnkArl 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, gear gets a bit sparse/fiddly at about half-height but press-on and the holds get better and better.

with Matt, Debbie
Debs 06/May/12 2nd
with Karl
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd O/S
jarodbishop ?/May/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 TR
Matt Smyth 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Timo Austino 14/Apr/12 -
with Jose, Annie
LJC 13/Apr/12 Lead
ben.richards 13/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Don't think we can quite claim this as due to the grease we did a bit of zig-zaging to follow the more forgiving holds rather than the direct line that the guide suggests...wanted to lead it but I was too pumped having just lead Elysium in the Ruckle, my locking elbows were a testament to this! Will be back to lead.

metal arms 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 07/Apr/12 2nd

Chris's lead, he'd not done it before and missed the pro until placing a hex on the adjacent route (cheat!)half way up that then fell out a la Tom Bouex (no more cheating!!). Scared the wits out of his mum and dad. A bit wet by the time me and Sean seconded it, bit of a bloody struggle, harder than I remember it when I lead it.

with Chris Lodge
tomshanti 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

lovely route,real shame it felt greasy today lower down.great climbing on the top wall

Julian Prieto 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
Sophie Nunn 19/Mar/12 TR rpt
joedoherty 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Irving
Sophie Nunn 12/Mar/12 TR rpt
Ciderslider 29/Feb/12 2nd rpt

Great Climb (shame it's so short)

with LukeyG
nick hawkins 20/Feb/12 -
Voltemands 13/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Feb/12 Lead

My first VS? May ave dropped a nut too? Hmmm.

mark schramm 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Dave C
LJC 13/Jan/12 2nd
with Jack, Tom
Hidden 06/Jan/12 Lead
PAJames ??/2012 -
DP1977 ??/2012 Lead O/S

Meant as a warm down, but did it with lower half in the shade and therefore slick from sea spray. Spicy.

with David Potter
Hidden ??/2012 -
Sophie Nunn 19/Nov/11 TR rpt
Pete Scott 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
chris_B 05/Nov/11 Lead
louby 05/Nov/11 2nd
roberts1234567890 01/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Kayan 01/Nov/11 2nd
LJC 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
LJC 15/Oct/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Lee
LukeyG ?/Oct/11 Lead
with C-nunez
wildrover220 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 23/Sep/11 Lead
with Clare, Tilly
tomB 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Juliette
hotfeet 17/Sep/11 Lead
oodie72 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
wild_nomad 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Nice climbing but with a bold top half!

with Paul Day, Kevin
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Nevil 20/Aug/11 Lead
jon_gill1 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Again the line in the rockfax guide is completely wrong! Did the correct route which is fantastic!

Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
JezzaCat ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Richard
csd23 ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Richard Dodds
Chris Manasseh 29/Jul/11 Lead
with Andy Gee
3 Names 27/Jul/11 2nd
Takacs 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Jake Lodge
thetradlad 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

bag of wank

Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd
Curly Rich 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd rpt
matt.jj 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Not bad. Polished.

Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead β
ciderspider 10/Jun/11 2nd dog
Ciderslider 10/Jun/11 Lead β

Abbed in down the line of the climb and had a look at gear placements. Had to move left to place a cam about 10 feet above peg (dragon cam 1 still there - has my name and mobile on label - reward). Great route though.

Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/11 2nd

OK, but not worth three stars!

JenDurden 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Needed another #1 nut two-thirds the way up!

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
fatwallawoods 21/May/11 Solo O/S

Climbed this many times over the years. Great solo climb with positive holds in the top section allowing you to take your time and really make the most of your situation. Not sure if it should be 3 stars but still a good route.

haydng 21/May/11 Lead rpt
with RachelG
jcook1980 20/May/11 -
with Matt Tyson
nick arding 19/May/11 Lead
with Lee Pooley
tobydunford 14/May/11 2nd rpt
with Angus
Seb Lee 08/May/11 Lead β

very enjoyable climbing

with Angus Girlspie
runwildjohn 23/Apr/11 TR
with Keith Stone
batterj2 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Mark Griffiths
Marc-G 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Gareth 15/Apr/11 TR rpt
with on shunt
jchenoweth 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Marc
Marc-G 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
Sophie Nunn 04/Apr/11 TR rpt
ian1234567 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
mikespooner 27/Mar/11 Lead β
with Richard Bingham, Tom Downes
Neil Rigiani 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Excellent climb

Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/11 TR rpt
Rich K 22/Mar/11 TR
with Wayne Cheung
rustaldo 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

nice to lead this after TRing it a couple years ago..

with Uncle Dave
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
TerryLines 19/Mar/11 Lead
thomb 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
mattshort 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Nick, Matt Wallace
mattpw 06/Mar/11 2nd β
with Nick Butler, Matt Short
nickdunn 05/Mar/11 2nd
paultaylor ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 24/Feb/11 2nd rpt
with Ceri
Ceridwen 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/10 2nd O/S
petegunn 23/Dec/10 Lead
with Davina
msoldn 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

damp but fun

with Dan
nikinko 17/Oct/10 2nd dog

rested on rope after first few moves. lovely balancy climbing.

with liam
risby 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Lovely warm day; hands have never been so sweaty as on this climb

Monkey_Alan 16/Oct/10 2nd
adi bryant 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
gibsond 30/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Dropped my small nuts into the sea at the crux!!!! Thought about heading into second corner, but was brave enough to push on. Made it a very interesting head game!

tev 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Darrell
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
rob askew 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with nick brindley
Jen Crook 15/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead
Gareth 12/Aug/10 TR rpt
with on shunt
mark schramm 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Got completely sandbagged. Someone from below said go right when I should have gone left. Perhaps this could be a new variation Freda with Grandma's finish.

with tom m
tommoulds 07/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Schramm
Stepanek 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Well protected first few moves, where needed. Then a few technical moves on worse gear before an easy finish. Very good climb all in all.

Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Takacs 01/Aug/10 2nd

fell on crux due to hand injury

with Chris Stepanek
Seth.J 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with BA, Alex Stone
WalnutHorse 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
cayteye 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
saz_b 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice route, worth doing. Good start and bolder upper section, handholds better than expected.

with Dugald
ScottyD 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Amy Kilpin 06/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Solo
Kevster ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
davenev 28/Jun/10 Solo O/S

enjoyable again

Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Alexandre Buisse 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Lewis
Garron 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
lewiz 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
katiep 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ceri, Robin Head
Ceridwen 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Robin Head, Katy Preston
Robin Head 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Katie
Different Steve 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Clio Jameson
andrzej kierzek 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Si dH 17/Jun/10 Lead

Did the first half of this up the crack but hadn't read the guidebook properly and it looked pretty unlikely up the top wall, so I went up the severe to the left instead. Rock very soapy. Ego brought down a peg or two by first Swanage route!

with Mike Henesy
mikehenesy 15/Jun/10 2nd

Well it was kind of three climbs, a bit of a zig zagging traverse if the truth be known. Simons first trip to Swanage, I did suggest kicking off on a nice HS balcony but he said he might not visit again so he may as well tick off the three star VS, well for starters any way. He prefered to ignore my advice on where the route went too. I trust he won't put it down as 'done' in his logbook? Who knows maybe he'll be back??

with Simon
al99 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 27/May/10 2nd rpt
with Tim
timharrison 27/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead rpt
brian watson 11/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jeff and Anne Marie
Hidden 10/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd
nick hawkins 04/May/10 -
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Mr G 18/Apr/10 TR O/S

Fantastic Dorset weather, sun burn and dolphins :-]

Hidden 06/Apr/10 Lead O/S
g1m147 25/Mar/10 Lead
with Steve, Mick.
The Ivanator 17/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, tough proposition at the grade.

with Stewart
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Alexstone ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Seth
David Mayers ??/2010 Lead
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 11/Dec/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/09 2nd rpt
Indy Nile 07/Nov/09 Lead dog

denied! too late in day, dodgy finger, dodgy day, I could go on, finished up second corner, well miffed.

AlistairB 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
Steve13 25/Oct/09 2nd
Nexonen 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Jon
JonBrown 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Fogot which way it went, felt a little run out without micros, but sweet moves all the way to the top

with Andy
clukins 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Thomasina
RCrockford 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Really greasy at the bottom, felt nails for the grade!

with Jonah
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah Wysling
Ben Harper 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with lauren davies
lostinmidlands 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with mikeP, nil4e
Hidden 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S
nick hawkins 09/Sep/09 TR dog

Self belayed on a gri-gri

cliffy 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Not exactly onsight as it was dark, well done Tom. Would have been easier if he had switched his head torch on though. Easier for me as those nice boys in the Lifeboat illuminated the entire climb. Think Tom found it particularly gripping especially when 'the' hex fell out. Otherwise lots of pro if you can see it.

with Tom Boeux
Sophie Nunn 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great route! Slightly blank in the middle, but good edges after that

uncontrollable 05/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Viskii, Alan B
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd β
Hidden 15/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
henbot 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
KarlH 04/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Greatly lacking in confidence. Was psyched out and pumped by the smooth wall section and was lowered down. - Disappointing.

with Phil and Matt
BruceW 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Becca
mikehenesy ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S

At last I went the right way!

with Tom Boeux
JonBrown 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
jacobjlloyd 14/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Jesse Lloyd
michpaulatto 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
rustaldo 06/Jun/09 TR
with Uncle Dave
jacobjlloyd 05/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with John Scarrott
tbs105 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with jake
colkurtz ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Betti
djking1983 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Bram 28/May/09 Lead
martin one 24/May/09 Lead rpt
with dave knight
gingerdave13 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jon
Gareth 01/May/09 TR rpt
with on shunt
Ben Watts 26/Apr/09 2nd
with Brad Reed
breed 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
jezb1 17/Apr/09 2nd

Repeat, lead before

MontyH 15/Apr/09 Lead
with pete frost
jezb1 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Really nice route. Keeps your interest through the whole climb unlike a lot at Sub.

Indy Nile 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Dorset 12/Apr/09 TR

Easy!! Why didn't I lead it!!

with Mark James and Julian Taylor
martin one 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with dave knight
AndyM-LVB 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S

One of the best trad routes I've done.

with Nicolas Tardy
trev_f 02/Apr/09 2nd rpt
cksrealm 25/Mar/09 2nd β
dmoir 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Floris
Ed Westwood 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
EmmanuelF 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S
davenev 16/Mar/09 TR O/S

Tricky start but then simply great climbing.

with solo
feilx 15/Mar/09 Solo
dswansonlow 15/Mar/09 2nd
with John Scarrot
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
pete.hutchings 14/Mar/09 TR O/S

dropped nut key in the sea so had to tope rope.

trev_f 08/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead rpt
@ndy 01/Mar/09 Lead dog
London Luke ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Simon Allcock ?/Mar/09 Lead
with nick
uncontrollable 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Viskii
Hidden 28/Feb/09 2nd
Gareth 17/Feb/09 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
sdht ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
st_reymann ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
clipskipper 29/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Ed Babington
jchenoweth 21/Dec/08 TR O/S
with Fat Alan
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead
Alaric 11/Oct/08 2nd
garywong 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
givemetea 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Tracey Tomlin
Hidden 11/Oct/08 2nd
GPN ?/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
Mr Tickle 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S

delicate first section

with davenev
theone 04/Aug/08 2nd O/S

a lovely climb!!! nice and easy towards top

with rik dawes
jez_palmer 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Pretty good but it ain't Pembroke.

with Tony
davenev ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with luke
JCookie 27/Jul/08 2nd

What a shocker. Second corner, to the left gave slight assistance during the struggle at the bottom ( Yes, Chris, I know!). Route got better though- nice delicate stuff. Not sure I was!

with Chris Poad
Ing 27/Jul/08 2nd
with Stevie G
RiPomc 27/Jul/08 2nd

A tough climb for me.

with Chris Poad
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 20/Jul/08 2nd β
gdb4060 07/Jun/08 Lead
aged_ape ?/Jun/08 -
camjberry 30/May/08 2nd
with Greg Grace
tobydunford 27/May/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 27/May/08 2nd β
jamie ward 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with Martyn Eales
haydng 10/May/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel
RMG 10/May/08 2nd
with haydng
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd rpt
MarkRyder 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Alex
LeighAdams 03/Apr/08 Lead
with Col fiddy
MontyH 02/Apr/08 Lead
with lee lander and Paul Milton
Hidden 02/Apr/08 2nd
Will Homoky 02/Apr/08 Lead RP
with Tom Hindson
w.pettet-smith 24/Mar/08 Lead

lovely jubly

with david coley
Matt Bennett 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/08 2nd
riddle 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Delicate for sure, great climb. Lots of atmosphere, we climbed it with a good size swell crashing at the belay ledge

with Yasmina
Matt Bennett 09/Feb/08 Lead dog

lead 1/3 of the E2 beside, got very hot+unpleasent, hung off a camm and moved back onto route

Jonathan Emett 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Matt
jamie ward 08/Feb/08 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
ASchwirtz 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Claire Johnston
manwithacam 05/Jan/08 Lead

retreated from piton first attempt. Quite wobbly lower down

with Alex
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Kirill 31/Oct/07 2nd
cem 31/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Tom Gadsden 14/Oct/07 Lead dog

One rest on dodgy nut when gear got a bit short, otherwise clean; need plenty of small nuts

with Kit
Kit Gillibrand 14/Oct/07 2nd dog
davidgent ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Luke and Lydia
Theeni ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Matt Kemp
MontyH 03/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
dannyboy83 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sion
andy mcc 04/Aug/07 Lead dog

Really ran it out above the peg and then nearly shit myself as I wobbled halfway up. Got some gear in, quick rest and then finished OK. Photo of me on it here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=71251

with Jason King
Tobias at Home 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S

very good.

with featuresforfeet
featuresforfeet 22/Jul/07 2nd RP
with Tobias at Home
AJ007 22/Jul/07 Lead
with Mike H
mankrambler 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with CUMC
Lauren Davies 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
Matt Shepherd 10/May/07 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/May/07 Lead

strayed to the crack on the left a bit, cool moves up face

with arpollard
manwithacam ?/May/07 2nd

Gets easier I think

with Martin
kenneM ?/May/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
Hidden 30/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Fat Tim 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
eldre070 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Jase White
Siderunner 21/Apr/07 2nd

Good route with hard start

with Seb B
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
MontyH 26/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Hidden 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Tim Steward 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
Will Homoky 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Nick Ingram
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
with rob gajland
maybe_si 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with fat alan
daviesp2 18/Nov/06 2nd
Tom Last 11/Nov/06 2nd


with Nick and Denise
Stick 21/Oct/06 2nd

Ab in from top of second corner

with Fat Al
timharrison 08/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with Suse
Hidden 25/Sep/06 Lead
Norman_P_W 25/Sep/06 2nd
with Bob M
winter_burn 09/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Dave Kerr 25/Jul/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
Hidden 25/Jul/06 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Pete
Rob84 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Awesome route - wanted this tick for ages and it definately lived up to the hype!

with Jules
Andy Chubb 21/Apr/06 -
with Robin Nicholson
Morgan Woods ?/Apr/06 Lead
with Matt
Ed Babs ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ryan
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd
Andy Chubb ?/Mar/06 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/05 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 22/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Perry Beale
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Richard Horn ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/05 -
Oli 31/May/05 Lead O/S
with Lucy Garner
Hidden 16/Apr/05 Lead dog
Boxy 19/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Vince
chrissloan84 ??/2005 2nd
with rhodri
feilx ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead
Hedley ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Reuben
cem 12/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Alaric 25/Jul/04 2nd rpt
with Paul L
timharrison 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Great route

Owen W-G 15/May/04 Lead O/S

Best VS under the lighthouse.

with Matt Baynham
Hidden 14/May/04 2nd O/S
shoulders 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with maria, mart, chrisevans, dai
Marq 13/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Paul L ??/2004 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2004 Lead O/S
DavidR 09/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Steve Reece
Hidden 28/Jul/03 -
ellie macpherson 17/May/03 TR


Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
ellie macpherson 17/Apr/03 TR


Alaric 16/Nov/02 Lead O/S
Alaric 29/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Paul L
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
James B 06/Jul/02 -
with Nigel
Ian JL ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
Alaric 22/Jun/02 2nd O/S
with Paul L
MontyH 17/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with rob guppy
Hidden 15/Sep/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd
pezzerrr 11/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jan/01 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
FrankW ??/2000 2nd O/S
with Joe
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden 20/Jun/99 -
Gareth 17/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Graeme
Matt Tranter ?/Apr/99 Lead
akamini ?/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
Hidden 19/May/98 Lead
chris wyatt ??/1998 2nd
with Surfer Mark
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Bob Macleod
craig h 01/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
andyfeds 09/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Paul H
Budge 12/Apr/97 2nd
with Mike Oates
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
nacnud 07/Jun/96 Lead
mikej 24/Sep/95 Lead
with Mike Byles
tracyclimber 20/May/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
colin milton 17/Sep/94 TR
with eric milton
Didymus 25/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with pete
r0b 30/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
Geoffers ??/1994 TR O/S
with Bean
Hidden 09/Jun/93 Lead O/S
james wardle ?/Jun/93 AltLd
with simon Longley
Okecroak 08/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy
Roget 16/Nov/91 Lead O/S
with jon
kp64zl ?/Apr/91 Lead
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Dec/89 Lead
steve taylor ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
MoWalker3 27/Nov/88 -
Hidden 25/Jul/88 TR O/S
RichardMc 05/Mar/88 Lead
with Tim Oakes
Hidden ??/1987 Lead rpt
Nigel Coe 20/Dec/86 -
with Brian Wyvill
Moses 26/Oct/86 Lead O/S
Moses 12/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/86 Lead
with Ian Birch
RichardMc 21/Jun/86 Lead
with Steve Gould
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 19/Jul/83 TR

Barefoot as I'd forgotten my EBs.

with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/83 TR
with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 22/Jun/83 TR
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 09/Jun/83 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
Russell Lovett 20/Mar/83 Lead rpt
with Tim Freeman
Andy Fielding ??/1982 2nd
Nigel Coe 11/Oct/81 -
with Allan Yeend, Tim Dunsby
Ken Taylor 20/Sep/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden ?/Aug/78 TR
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford
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Votes cast 125
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Votes cast 125
Votes cast 117
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set