Avernus*** S 4a
[Simon on Avernus, 3 kb]20m.

Rockfax Description
A hugely entertaining and fun outing exiting through the same blow-hole as Graduation Day, but at a significantly easier grade. Start near the back of the cave and climb all the way through the chimney/roof to the rock blow-hole belay. Some find a head-torch a big help. © ROCKFAX

FA. M.Hurn, F.Higgins, D.Partridge 22.8.71 22/Aug/1971

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, Through Routes!, West Country Climbs, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, subluminal A to Z .....almost, SW Climbs - Swanage, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Swanage Green Spots.

Photo: Simon on Avernus © doyle12
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 284 logbooks, and on 77 wishlists.

Great route, scary but good holds!
robertmills4 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/15

musgravet - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/15 with Chris cockbain

chris cockbain - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/15

Graham Baxter - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with John O'Grady

Meant to be a chilled route after climbing at boulder ruckle, bex didn't think so. Great fun, bit damp and greasy in places but good gear although I can't be certain in the roof section as it was hard to see without a headtorch.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Becky E

JulianB - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/15 with James Geach, Ian Shore

The previous team bottled it because it was 'horrendous, slimy and wet everywhere' etc. It turned out to be the best climbing fun I have had in ages. OK, it was damp but threads and bridging made the first bit safe and the lovely foot ledges in the roof were perfect. A headtorch would have come in handy to find gear in the roof as the bright light entering the blowhole made it very difficult to spot placements. Belay at the exit.
Dave Mahon - Lead - 15/Aug/15 with Brian Mead

Got scared by the wetness
s1362083 - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/15

twill - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/15 with Will Hartz

martin one - Lead rpt - 23/May/15 with James, Russel scummer

Grim. Slimy and covered in bird poo. Not a single positive hold, an adventure but definitely type 2 fun!
TomGB - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15 with Pierce Ferris, Beth Heeney

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/15

the scariest severe I have climbed by a long shot! Just getting to it was an adventure. Every hold was wet and several were covered in bird poo, but I'd do it again. I think!
beeney - 2nd - 04/May/15

petern - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15 with jane gilmour, AndrewCArmstrong

AndrewCArmstrong - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with Jane Gilmour

Wet, greasy and with liberal amounts of lubricating guano. A great experience and worth the 3 stars. Good, but not clean, fun!
thomas.veness - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/15 with matt1024

Slimey, slippery, covered in bird crap... worth the adverse conditions though.
matt1024 - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/15 with Tom Veness

Spectacular. A proper adventure.
stonemikey - Lead - 14/Mar/15 with John Horton

Terrific route - and with virtually no bird poo at present!
runwildjohn - 2nd - 14/Mar/15 with Mike Silver

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/15

4th time I've taken people up, first time without a head torch. Always enjoyable
JoeCoxson - Lead rpt - 06/Dec/14 with Aaron Donlon, Rob Owen

An adventure - Absolutely gobsmacking
Aaron.D - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/14 with Joe Coxson, Rob Owen

timmsy - 2nd - 22/Oct/14 with David_Gledson

phil456 - 2nd β - 20/Sep/14 with Mitch McIntosj, Tracy

Did the beginning of Graduation Day
JenDurden - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with JoePrem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14

About E1 4b in our conditions! The wet and grease made this an ultimate adventure. Nearly getting smashed by waves on the traverse in and the uncertainty of the line mixed with relentless birdshit and wetness made us both grin and tremble the whole way. Palava getting Andy to the top ! ~Most memorable route I've done. Clearly didn't learn our lesson buzzing to do Benny later on!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Andy G

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14

Climbed the start of Graduation Day, wondering why there was a pumpy overhanging flake on a Severe. As soon as possible I bridged over to the opposing wall and continued on Avernus.
Echna - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Rich

petrch - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Adam Prater-Rushton

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/14

always fun
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 29/Jul/14 with Al Palmer

As expected: cold, dark and covered in Sh*t!! WHAT a climb though. A real adventure and I loved every second of it. I left a no 3 cam in the roof too as my second couldn't get her out. If you can it all yours ;-) Oh yeah...I disturbed a pigeon close to the exit of the blow hole and screamed like a girl as it flapped in my face!!!
Andypotter3 - Lead dog - 27/Jul/14

JulianB - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

RobScarisbrick - 2nd - 26/Jul/14

JulianB - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

andy_pemberton - 2nd - 24/Jul/14 with Steve Gibson

Esoterically Hallam-esq. Good, because its so sh!t, literally!
akhutton88 - 2nd - 22/Jul/14

Greasy, imposing and fecal to the extreme. Difficult to tell where the start is, if its not harry roughers you could wade to the base. Aimee loved it from start to finish. What a tough cookie.
Alex Hallam - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Aimee Hutton

James_L88 - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Kat Day

Sam Husband - Lead rpt - 18/May/14 with Gemma Powell

Dhonny_Jaws - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Andrew Porter

Hidden - 2014

RussB - 2014 with Alex H

Aimee and Oli wanted a piece of the action so I lead it again.
JoeCoxson - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/13 with Aimee Jewitt-Harris, omaskrey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/13

tried on lead the previous day but couldn't finish
omaskrey - 2nd β - 01/Dec/13 with Aimee Lou, Joe

arandall - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Dom

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Alex p, joe c

andork123 - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Joe c, Wendy Watthews

Incredible climb, easy climbing considering the route.
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Alex Poyzer, Wendy Matthews

Aimee Louise - 2nd - 30/Nov/13 with Oliiiiiiiiiiiii

Dominic Taylor - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Alex

Hidden - Solo rpt - 05/Sep/13

Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Zoe Taylor

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 29/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/13

Amazing climb dripping in bird poo!
OliverRoss - 2nd β - 25/Aug/13 with Alkis

Unique and a little bit... pooey! Went in by abbing down the blow hole, got into close personal encounters with a pigeon, got my hands, feet and gear completely covered in bird poo, everything I could possibly hate about climbing, yet absolutely brilliant!
Alkis - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Oliver Ross

Exciting ab in, filthy, insecure climbing. Brilliant fun.
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Adam Ryan

Greasiest thing i've ever climbed.
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Stuart Johnston

Greasy and horrible, neither of us finished it
steveprice.exmouth - 01/Aug/13 with David Coley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Haha excellent
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Pete

Hidden - Lead - Jul/13

AlexD - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Scott

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Floris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12

Scotsken - 20/Sep/12 with Si Ball

Amazing adventure route, had a slight epic in the top back corner until i found the jug hidden in the gloom.
windle - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with james barry

Intrepidsteve - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Alex Mortimer

uncontrollable - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/12 with Viskii

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/12

Hard to believe this is ever dry. Soaking wet, insects crawling all over the place and lots of bird poo. Hard work mentally as you try to work out which way you're actually going.
johnpuddephatt - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Ryan Mole

Harder than S when this wet but still excellent!
RyMole - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with John Puddephatt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/12

ad111 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12

Stroppy - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Sam Husband

Sam Husband - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Ed

RKirke - Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/12

none of the moves particularly difficult, just a bit slippery. great adventure though!
pippa_g - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Scott Titt

Hidden - TR - 20/May/12

davenev - 11/May/12 with Russell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

tobydunford - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Dave Ripley

Geoffers - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Lauren

Headjamm - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Geoffers

Ian JL - 2012

T'was dark & wet , it ruined me not an ideal place to have a physical & mental meltdown at the end of the day . Great route & recommend good protection .
Boogs - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with Scott Titt

Well this proved to be a mini adventure! Crux was navigating over pigeon shit ledge. Seemed to spend a lot of time faffing with gear placements but then it was dark after all.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Abigail Greves, Alex Street, Julia Kelly

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

tomB - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Juliette

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 23/Sep/11 with Clare, Tilly

ngreen - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Chris Manasseh - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Andy Gee

reece.robinson - 2nd dog - 10/Jul/11 with Phil Wallam, Kev Faux

Kevster - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

Davenglish - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11 with tt85

jcook1980 - 20/May/11 with Matt Tyson

Jonathan Emett - 2nd O/S - 15/May/11 with gary

feilx - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Heather

nick hawkins - 2nd - 13/May/11

Hidden - May/11

jasoncash - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Charlie O'Brien

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

jchenoweth - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Marc

Marc-G - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Danger Jon

JenDurden - 2nd β - 09/Apr/11 with Sevan, Max

It's been a long time old friend (or should I say fiend !). What an adventure ! Not sure that my trusty second thought so !?!. Don't remember it being so hard last time (think that it should carry some form of health warning). A great climb that everyone should do (at least once !)
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Ian Stephenson

ciderspider - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Ciderslider

good fun. unique
rustaldo - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Kit Perry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

sarpedon - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Will Fuller - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Sarp Ackay

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Scott

A really fun route. Try not to get wet on the approach.
Rich K - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Wayne Cheung

Great climb, just really greasy.
gjh - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

jon thompson27 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Ian Woodroe

TerryLines - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

mattshort - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Nick, Matt Wallace

mattpw - 2nd β - 06/Mar/11 with Nick Butler, Matt Short

blakey - Lead - 2011

tobydunford - Solo rpt - 25/Oct/10

gibsond - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/10 with Thomas Vaughan

tev - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Darrell

LukeyG - 2nd - Aug/10 with Danh89

LukeyG - Lead - Aug/10 with Danh89

Danh89 - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with LukeyG

Danh89 - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with LukeyG

Rustyjas - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/10 with Mike Henesey, Chris Keville

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/10

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - Jul/10

colkurtz - Lead - Jul/10 with Robb

Backed off the lead. Find it hard to believe it was a severe in the conditions we did it in. Greasy, Wet, Covered in Bird Shite, Dark (take a head torch) but worth doing for the atmosphere.
Fatclimber - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Jason Garnham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

martin one - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/10 with pete

It's bonkers but makes you think about ropework
rd20 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Leilah, Hannes

Brilliant climb
cas smerdon - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Mark S

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/10

tscoobydoo - Lead - Jun/10

Hidden - Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/May/10

uncontrollable - 2nd rpt - 22/May/10 with Viskii

Epic adventure route. Technically easy and loads of gear but psychologically demanding, especially if the tide is chasing you up into the cave. Lost a sling as the large boulder it was round rocked and trapped it.
mullermn - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Kylie Richards

Pretty exciting! very damp and quite exposed, quite an adventure.
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with mullermn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10

Awesome atmospheric climb definitely worth a visit
climbtim - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Tom Thorne

Ken Taylor - 2010 with Gerry Dunford, Roger Wilson

tev - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Des

Brilliant fun! looked greasy but was dry and cool after a few days of calm solid sunshine.
Indy Nile - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Thomas Vaughan

lostinmidlands - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with mikeP, nil4e

cliffy - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Pilar Martinez

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Aug/09

Becky C - 2nd - 08/Aug/09

mattshort - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Dave West

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with andrew porter, nick bullock

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/09

haha . . .what a climb - this is a must do!! :)
sonic46 - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Mike Kean, & Nick Brown

JonBrown - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Mike

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Jesse Lloyd

jezb1 - Lead - 25/May/09

What an experience! Very atmospheric indeed, with lots of excellent climbing :D
northnorthnorth - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Tomo

Mmmmmm bird pooh! Bizarre but most awesome :)
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

vertigo - 2nd β - 05/Apr/09 with Mark Ryder

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Mar/09

Blisco - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09 with Sarah Kaye

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with John Scarrot

A bit panicky at the back of the cave, but made it through eventually. Rather damp.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 15/Feb/09 with Frodo Stickel

simply insanely entertaining.
uncontrollable - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/09 with Viskii, Alan B

Hidden - 2009

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

paulh1967 - 2009

Absolutely brilliant. More than made up for not doing the Conger AGAIN as the swell was a bit much. Moves are a bit hard to read at first, but it's a great route once you get going.
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/08 with Chester

Very amusing climb, a must if you enjoy wet confined spaces!!!!
crobinson - 2nd - 15/Sep/08 with Tom Last

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Absolutely insane, complete experience, very entertaining.
whiting.jp - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with jamesca and rig

rig - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with James Carpenter, Jonathan Whiting

doyle12 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/08 with Tristian

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/08

great climb, one of the best we have ever done! great cave climb
doyle12 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08 with Tristian

Badly timed with high tide
grakgrak - 2nd - 05/Jun/08 with duncan

aged_ape - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/08

Chris Plewa - Lead O/S - Mar/08

orangutan64 - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

steve2006 - Lead O/S - 2008 with andre

munkeyseemunkeydo - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Josh

gdb4060 - Lead - Sep/07 with Steve

wet,slippery,covered in bird shit,but good fun!
MontyH - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

Hidden - 2nd β - Jun/07

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Lisa Paling

LiLaMont - 2nd β - 26/May/07

eldre070 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Jase White

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Seb B

Brilliant fun romping up the cave. a bit tight at times for tall people.
starfish - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with ST

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07

broc - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

GiveHerHelen - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Jon Moulding

Rapidly became one of my favourite routes of all time! Awesome! (Just ignore the bird****)
Jonny M - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Helen Tsai

trev_f - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/06 with John Godding

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Jez - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead - Sep/05

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Aug/05 with Pete

The first of three attempts so far and the 'cleanest'. Grade depends on conditions but definately a bit dangerously slippy.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Ian Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

jonberry791 - Lead O/S - 2005

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/04 with Dan & Tim

Damp misty day. Sopping wet had to be climbed very cautiously.
Alaric - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/04 with Paul L

Haglington - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Sandy Ogilvie

stuartf - 2004

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/02

leonjones - 2nd - 2002 with Sean Case

Alastair Hudson - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/01 with Ian McNicoll

mark4344 - 2nd - 21/May/01 with dave tourell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/01

andybenham - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/00

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with South African bloke

FrankW - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/00 with Bernard K

FrankW - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/00 with Adam M

FrankW - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/00 with James R

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

CraigMac1 - 2000

big wave blood soaking
Stone Muppet - Lead dnf - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

NickP - 2000

sixties - Lead - 16/Sep/99 with hrd

Matt Tranter - Lead - Apr/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Sep/98 with Rob H

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1998 with Bob Macleod

Gareth - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/97 with Hannah

craig h - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/97 with Janet Hannah

jl - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/97 with Scuzz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/96

Lovely route. Lots of threads.
andyfeds - Lead - 20/Apr/96 with Penny H

babymoac - 2nd - 06/Nov/95 with graham d

iskra2000 - Lead - 29/Jul/95 with Jane Latham

tracyclimber - 2nd - 20/May/95

First time of many leads!
tracyclimber - Lead - 14/May/95

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/95

Dringo - 1995

fried - 1995

colin milton - Lead - 17/Sep/94 with eric milton

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/94 with FW

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 1994 with Bean

r0b - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/93 with Andy Jefferies

james wardle - AltLd - Jun/93 with simon Longley

timreynolds - Lead - 25/May/91 with Tony Hayward

Hidden - Lead - 10/Nov/90

ferret newman - 2nd - Mar/90 with Moley

craig h - Solo O/S - 27/Jan/90

Approx date
Nigel Coe - Solo - 1990

ChrisJD - Lead - 03/Dec/89

kp64zl - 2nd - Dec/89 with Mark Ryle

steve taylor - Lead O/S - Jun/89 with mark grover

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/88 with Tim Oakes

bazzag - Lead - 1988 with iain

Moses - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

GuyM - 1985

Nigel Coe - Lead - 06/May/79 with John Walmsley

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1977 with Allan Yeend

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
TomWeeks, SenzuBean, samohtdoowde, DanChad, tomdawson4, edmundro, dereke12000, jing, simonjkinsella, humptydumpty, montymoo, andrewmcleod, magicmartin, petersheppard, dh7892, poeter210, cdpuk, Matt250, vix, budchawla, alexporter, jadias, rustaldo, toogreytogrind, RamblingRyan, MarkyGee, DanMc, ElBarto, syv_k, Dan Lane, Ztephan, johnpr, Ian Archer, Stepanek, RandomHero, PerrinT, Pete Randall, givemetea, SuseH, tdudley, carlbakes, Ceridwen, DerwentDiluted, AndyM-LVB, neilfish, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden, fivestar, simoncov, tibetsky, boynamedsue, MagnusL, Stick, Nix Ward

Total votes cast 166
hard HS3 of 43
HS3 of 43
easy HS2 of 43
hard S7 of 43
S23 of 43
easy S5 of 43
hard HVD0 of 43
HVD0 of 43
easy HVD0 of 43
hard 4b0 of 58
4b1 of 58
easy 4b1 of 58
hard 4a6 of 58
4a41 of 58
easy 4a9 of 58
hard 3c0 of 58
3c0 of 58
easy 3c0 of 58
3 Stars60 of 65
2 Stars2 of 65
1 Star1 of 65
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Bag of .....2 of 65
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Clean repeat