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|Dorset > Blackers Hole >|
|Polaris|| E5 6a|
<< Frank's Little Secret
Exchange of Fire >>
|70m, 3 pitches. A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the fault-line and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto a belay ledge above the huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978
Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests.
Photo: Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris © Rob Greenwood - UKC
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11
If the tides aren't right, starting from hanging belay.
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09
feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Andy L
Briefly held draw to clip rusty peg on crux...
ellis - AltLd - Sep/02 with Pete Collins
seconded the crux pitch
Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Ed Babs, Mark Warnett, Hidden, quiffhanger