Polaris*** E5 6a
[Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris, 3 kb]70m, 3 pitches. A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the fault-line and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove. 2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto a belay ledge above the huge roof. 3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © ROCKFAX
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests.

Photo: Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris © Rob Greenwood - UKC
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Totally mega! P1 + 3. The first pitch is mediocre, but the second and third are absolutely superb. Access: We couldn't find the stake described as 40m downslope of the corner fence post, but the grass is long so it could be there. We abbed off the corner fence post instead to the grassy hollow (less than 50m) where we found two stakes to the east. Abseil from these to to the base of the route (less than 50m). We did the second ab on the climbing ropes and pulled them. We set up another rope for the top out and I was glad we did.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Iain Moodie

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with michael porter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14

The guidebook is only 3 years old but none of the ab stakes are there. We accessed with a very diagonal 70m ab from the corner fence post to the lip, then pulled the lead ropes. In situ rope for the escape wasn't essential as the final pitch is solid until it is v easy. Steady pitch 1, exciting crux pitch 2- short and sharp. Great overhanging pitch 3, prob decent E3/4 in itself. Fun route!
morganator - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11

If the tides aren't right, starting from hanging belay.
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Andy L

Briefly held draw to clip rusty peg on crux...
ellis - AltLd - Sep/02 with Pete Collins

seconded the crux pitch
Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
paulpitcher, Ropeboy, Ed Babs, Mark Warnett, quiffhanger
Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard E60 of 10
E60 of 10
easy E60 of 10
hard E50 of 10
E53 of 10
easy E54 of 10
hard E43 of 10
E40 of 10
easy E40 of 10
hard 6b0 of 10
6b0 of 10
easy 6b0 of 10
hard 6a4 of 10
6a6 of 10
easy 6a0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 10
5c0 of 10
easy 5c0 of 10
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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