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Polaris*** E5 6a

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[Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris, 2 kb]70m, 3 pitches. A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the fault-line and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove. 2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto a belay ledge above the huge roof. 3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © ROCKFAX
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests.

Photo: Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris © Rob Greenwood - UKC
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This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11

If the tides aren't right, starting from hanging belay.
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Andy L

Briefly held draw to clip rusty peg on crux...
ellis - AltLd - Sep/02 with Pete Collins

seconded the crux pitch
Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Ed Babs, Mark Warnett, Hidden, quiffhanger

Total votes cast 21
hard E60 of 7
E60 of 7
easy E60 of 7
hard E50 of 7
E52 of 7
easy E52 of 7
hard E43 of 7
E40 of 7
easy E40 of 7
hard 6b0 of 7
6b0 of 7
easy 6b0 of 7
hard 6a4 of 7
6a3 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
3 Stars7 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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