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|Dorset > Blackers Hole >
|Polaris|| E5 6a|
<< Frank's Little Secret
Exchange of Fire >>
|70m, 3 pitches. A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the fault-line and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto a belay ledge above the huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978
Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests.
Photo: Crux on Polaris - Davey H © Davey H
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.
The guidebook is only 3 years old but none of the ab stakes are there. We accessed with a very diagonal 70m ab from the corner fence post to the lip, then pulled the lead ropes. In situ rope for the escape wasn't essential as the final pitch is solid until it is v easy. Steady pitch 1, exciting crux pitch 2- short and sharp. Great overhanging pitch 3, prob decent E3/4 in itself. Fun route!
morganator - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11
If the tides aren't right, starting from hanging belay.
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09
feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Andy L
Briefly held draw to clip rusty peg on crux...
ellis - AltLd - Sep/02 with Pete Collins
seconded the crux pitch
Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
paulpitcher, Ropeboy, Ed Babs, Mark Warnett, Hidden, quiffhanger