The Magic Flute*** 7c
The overhanging drain-pipe tufa is stunning. 4 bolts to a lower-off. © ROCKFAX
Climb the soaring (well, sort of) tufa until tricky moves right gain a hanging undercut / sidepull. Using this, pull right into shattered holds and then back left to the short finishing slab. Brilliant! Rebolted 2009 Jon Ratcliffe: the 3rd clip has 3 bolts, 1 old and 2 new; use the lower of the 2 new bolts (the top one has not 'bitten' and is unsafe).
George Smith 1988

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Annoyed: made it to the broken rock twice but as with each of the 4 attempts today (after a go to re-familiarise) the new high point proved more difficult than assumed. The moves going back left after the broken rock aren't so easy - I was pretty wrecked after trad efforts y'day so will give myself the benefit of the doubt. Superb and not so bad I have to come back...
ksjs - Lead dog - 26/May/13 with Joe C

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Nov/11

1st rp after blowing the flash. Really good climbing and quite unique for this country!
JM - Lead RP - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Pinnington

sensational - a bit of Spain / Kaly in North Wales! 1st go: worked moves to 3rd clip, couldnt move right 2nd go: as first but got to 4th clip 3rd go: linked bottom to top in 3 sections. one hard move just before 3rd clip, will be interesting to see how clips feel and how long this takes to go...
ksjs - Lead dog - 20/Apr/10 with jo

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dswansonlow, Mattlamb90, owain86, Dan_Carroll
Voting
Total votes cast 9
hard 7c+0 of 4
7c+0 of 4
easy 7c+0 of 4
hard 7c2 of 4
7c2 of 4
easy 7c0 of 4
hard 7b+0 of 4
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easy 7b+0 of 4
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