The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Start at the top of the slope on the right. An easier lower wall leads to a good jug at half-height. Make hard moves through the bulge using pockets and layaways, finishing with a long move to gain the jug on Arch Enemies. © Rockfax
Jon Clark Jun/2010.
28 Decent Sport Routes , The Festival Of Shite , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
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Grade: 7a ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))