25m. This climbs the impressive dark buttres set high above the sea. Start on a slanting platform that can be reached by a 15m abseil (boulders at the back). A belay can be a arranged but it is sensible to leave the rope just in case. From the platform a cam #1 can be placed by reaching out to a large undercut flake. Now committ to the traverse on poor rock following a vague crackline. After about 8m a good hold is reached and decent gear can be placed. Now move diagonaly up and left using undercuts and laybacks through a vague groove towards flat holds and an obvious block where good gear can be arranged. Now traverse out on stupednous undercuts with big footholds until it is possible to move up and through the roofs where more gear can be found. A bold and serious route with some outrageous situations!

Piotr Wisthal 15/Aug/2010

Dangerous Dave 23/Sep/12 2nd

Tiring on the mind to belay and scary to 2nd! Not a hard climb but the exposure suspect rock and gear add up to an E5 experiance. Good route though

with graham
gforce 23/Sep/12 Lead


whistler 15/Aug/10 Lead β

Cleaned on abseil. There was one section of the climb that I hadn't inspected and it turns out to be the best! Huge undercuts and decent gear! In spite of excesive cleaning and inspection, it felt almost like an onsight! Scary!

with Ryan
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