Turtle*** E1 5b

Rockfax Description
18m. Climb rock and two veg into the open groove (ancient bolt runner) and exit right around the capping overhang. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Suffered from rockfall approx May 2013 - possibly E3 5c now

FAA. Bill Birch 1969. FFA. Steve Bancroft 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

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This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Whats this about a Rockfall in 2013 maybe E3 5c rubbish??, typical rockfax miss information, didnt seem any different from when i last did it 3 years ago. Unpleasant start but you know that from looking at it, followed by good solid climbing, the gear and holds reveal themselves as you climb, top end E1 due to the run out from the overhang but its all there, just have faith!!
a pedley - Lead - 18/Jun/14

Frank the Husky - 2013

An EXCELLENT CLASSIC GEM on a par with many millstone classics. Think the poor start may have been cleaned recently as not too bad. Thought there was plenty of gear and the crux coming out from under the roof is particularly well protected and not too hard either. E1 5b*** Beta as abseil the line first as a bit concerned about the gear which is impossible to see from the ground. Wish the guide book description and comments on here were accurate as i would have heed to and blown the on-sight. Also seconded as Jim led after me.
Graeme Hammond - Lead β - 24/Mar/12 with Jim

Nice climb, good gear when you need it. Felt fairly soft for the grade but I did get a bit of beta.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Graeme Hammond

Pretty stiff for an E1. It would be a lot better if it was a bit cleaner and didnt have the chossy start.
disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 28/Sep/11 with Wee man

Crap rock, crap gear and not that easy. Seems tough for E1.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 28/Sep/11 with Mark Williams

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/11

ste_d - 2nd rpt - 11/May/11 with mik

mikedelderfield - Lead rpt - 11/May/11 with Steven Delderfield

hilty - Lead O/S - 2011

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Greg

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with goi ashmore

Hidden - Lead - 19/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/08

nige - Lead - Jul/04 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/00

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/97 with mik

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/97 with Steven Delderfield

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/95

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 04/Mar/83 with Paul Clark

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 18/May/82 with Chris Calow

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 36
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E24 of 12
hard E15 of 12
E13 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c1 of 12
hard 5b5 of 12
5b5 of 12
easy 5b1 of 12
hard 5a0 of 12
5a0 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars4 of 12
2 Stars7 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat