UKC

Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand crack of an inverted Y to the junction and continue direct more easily. One of the best routes hereabouts although the upper section can be dusty. The bouldery Direct Start is 5c. © Rockfax

FA. Rowland Edwards 1960.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The fact that this, like Crooked Crack, gets 2 stars just shows that the Lancashire Quarry fanatics have lost all sense of perspective and really need to get out more. Barely a 1 star route, despite an obvious line. Short, awkward, with some dubious rock and, therefore, gear; and filthy in a way that would be really hard to prevent, since you would basically need to remove all the soil from the top of the route, or perhaps grow some vegetation to hold it in place. Not a route to inspire quarried-grit love.
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βeta: The fact that this, like Crooked Crack, gets 2 stars just shows that the Lancashire Quarry fanatics have lost all sense of perspective and really need to get out more. Barely a 1 star route, despite an obvious line. Short, awkward, with some dubious rock and, therefore, gear; and filthy in a way that would be really hard to prevent, since you would basically need to remove all the soil from the top of the route, or perhaps grow some vegetation to hold it in place. Not a route to inspire quarried-grit love.
Rob Davies 28 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: More like 5a at the start
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βeta: More like 5a at the start
Pekkie 10 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start for the grade, pleasant VS thereafter. The top is a disgrace - clearly overused by groups whose ropes have cut into the earth. All the loose stuff needs shovelling off (not while I'm at the bottom, mind)
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βeta: Hard start for the grade, pleasant VS thereafter. The top is a disgrace - clearly overused by groups whose ropes have cut into the earth. All the loose stuff needs shovelling off (not while I'm at the bottom, mind)
Richard Bradley 17 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The first half/two thirds is superb. the last few feet spoil it a bit because of the dust that washes down from above. Worthwhile all the same. The crux is low down so get your gear in early.
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βeta: The first half/two thirds is superb. the last few feet spoil it a bit because of the dust that washes down from above. Worthwhile all the same. The crux is low down so get your gear in early.
JR 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The bouldery direct start is good at 5c.
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βeta: The bouldery direct start is good at 5c.
gav p 3 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Upper section a bit dusty, at least when I've been on it. Well protected.
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βeta: Upper section a bit dusty, at least when I've been on it. Well protected.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 79
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crew's Route

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hobson Moor Quarry)

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