Kalymnos > Grande Grotta >
 
DNA*** 7a+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Aphrodite
 
DNA extension >>
[Peter Stollery, DNA, Grande Grotta Kalymnos, 3 kb]50m, 2 pitches. 1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+ © ROCKFAX

Photo: Peter Stollery, DNA, Grande Grotta Kalymnos © laurasmith
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 205 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

alek - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Laurence Everett

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 04/May/13 with Claudia

claudia Hesleden - Lead RP - 04/May/13

no_need_for_lube_yan - Lead O/S - 03/May/13

Placing the clips. Perfect end to a great trip.
Brendan - Lead RP - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

adamjeffs - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/13 with Elaine Owen

Tom Smart - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/13

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13 with Rob Richardson, Alex Hallam

Cruised till the 7th bolt, messed up the sequence. Definitely would go as an RP. Skip the last bolt and head straight for the rock "branches" by the lower-off. Spectacular route!!!
I_hang_dog - Lead dog - 06/Apr/13

matiamallia - Lead β - 05/Apr/13 with galerito, pawelgregorczyk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13

One attempt, dropped the last move after 'dithering' on nonrests.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/13 with Remus Knowles

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Kirsty Kerr

tommurrell1 - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Tessa, Richard

miastacey - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Nick Warren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13

womblesi - Lead RP - 31/Mar/13

Well we gave it a go, Tim even placed the first four qd's, sterling effort. Maybe I'd have got further if it hadn't been the first thing after a long lunch, but then maybe not. Inspired by Em's near completeted on site. She came back later and did it in a one'er, magnificent display!
mikehenesy - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/13 with Tim Johns

Ian Fidd - Lead β - 28/Mar/13 with mic_b

rxmac - Lead β - 28/Mar/13

Luxulyan - TR O/S - 27/Mar/13 with Tess Lyons, Tom Murrell

awesome..good holds all the way up and tons of kneebars
galerito - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13

DeanT - Lead O/S - 2013

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 27/Oct/12 with Ruth Buckberry, Annie Rose Clarke

Flash due to finding approx 4 no-hands rests.
Ahab - Lead β - 27/Oct/12

First indisputable 7a onsight. Bonza. Awesome route too. Had to skip the last clip as bolt was way out of reach.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/12 with Richard Popp

chiverstom - Lead RP - 23/Oct/12 with Sam Keyne

mic_b - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Heidi

cayteye - TR dog - 18/Oct/12 with stephen pearson

cayteye - TR dog - 18/Oct/12 with stephen pearson

2nd go
tommytuffa - Lead RP - 17/Oct/12 with Libby, Felix

Nice warm up, Doh!
Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

Gus - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Gus Hudgins

Worked on the 12th and 14th, done 4th go. Found ALL the no hand rests. First redpoint. Great climb.
GuitarGenius92 - Lead RP - 17/Sep/12 with Alistair Brash

dan ely - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with em

Surprised to get the flash - first 7a lead ever. Felt soft - no hard moves, just sustained. Creative resting makes things easier.
Jack J Keogan - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Tim Brown

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Lisa

Laura - Lead β - 30/Jul/12

Where do I start. An experience to remember! Climbed 1.5 times, dogged my way up bolt to bolt, didn't find any moves particularly hard but the last clip is very awkward. Need the stamina of 1,000 stallions to climb this clean. Will probably come back before the holiday is over. Had to climb again on top rope to recover the draws. Finished on the route about 8.30 and walked back down in the pitch black, epic adventure!
R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 14/May/12 with Jay

davidliu - Lead O/S - 11/May/12 with Dave Rose

dave_rose - Lead O/S - 11/May/12

Alice.001 - Lead dnf - 04/May/12

innes - Lead O/S - May/12

Fredrik Nyberg - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/12

Got the redpoint after falling off the crux going for the on sight. Should have been more aggressive!
climbinmunkey - Lead RP - 25/Apr/12 with Helen

Bisset - Lead dog - 23/Apr/12 with Phil B

Jay81 - Lead β - 18/Apr/12 with tris

Nearly Onsighted fell off faffing at the last bolt before the anchors, got it first go once i put the clips in.
Jake Young - Lead RP - 17/Apr/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead β - 17/Apr/12 with Kalymnos 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Apr/12

TR to strip draws. retroflash, felt pretty steady this time! :-) but still just as awesome, if not more so.
Quiddity - TR rpt - 14/Apr/12 with Hazel

Brilliant! Got up to last bolt on 2nd attempt but had to rest before clipping it. Really, really want to go back to get it clean!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

pete1993 - Lead - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/12 with Ken Tranter

Hidden - TR dog - 10/Apr/12

so close, one clip from the massive rest before the top got my fingers stuck, really really good though
CRiddiford - Lead dog - 08/Apr/12 with Jonny

mwatson - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

dctarrant2000 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/12 with Polly Cleall-Harding

got half way and was mega pumped. lots of rests if you are more creative than me :) stamina test
charlietorrance - Lead dnf - Apr/12 with Meg93

Dogged - pumped
tommack - Apr/12

tom harrison - Lead - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dog - Apr/12

Aaron Lines - Lead - Apr/12 with jim, Dan

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Mar/12

mike reed - 2012

Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gordon Jenkin

JulesV - Lead O/S - Nov/11

Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/11 with Anais

sam_cox - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11

Julie Carroll - Lead dog - 20/Oct/11 with Ben Aspland, Mark Oz

Awesome
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

offroute - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with karen dalzell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/11

Tufa lovin brilliance
Tris.w - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11 with sash.c

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11

offroute - 04/Oct/11 with karen dalzell

So good. 3 sit down rests and 4 no hand knee bars on a 20m route. No harder than 7a
mark_wellin - Lead β - Oct/11

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

wilsonmackenzie - Lead β - 01/Sep/11

7a in new guide.
RdC - Lead RP - 01/Sep/11

ChrisCSC89 - Lead β - 01/Sep/11 with Nic, Ross, Wilson

phil.cheeseman - Lead dog - Sep/11 with Tim Emmett

Upside down 5+. brilliant hands off rests whilst upside down. Looks short, feels long. Almost too many holds to choose from.
Twisty - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Byron Buck

david taylor - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

says 7a in the guide book. Got it second go.
Stuart trautS - Lead RP - 24/Jul/11

4th bolt clean then dogged.
xcomm - Lead dog - 06/Jul/11 with Jess

1st pitch. One word...wow!! Never climber anything like it before. Absolutely over the moon for onsighting this monster genius pump, a real fight.
Vertigo1 - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Kerstin

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Alan Sarhan

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/11

ewen - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Apr/11

jug fest just really steep!!
con321 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

steve.warrington - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with Ash Wolsey-Heard

Billg - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with Will Calvert

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Apr/11

had a few takes as pumped, fell from last QD
Claire S-J - 2nd dnf - 11/Apr/11 with rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Adam Clifford - Lead O/S - Apr/11

azachariades - Solo dnf - Apr/11

Superb, on sight, clips.
Clip gate - Lead - Apr/11

tom rookes - 2011

John Henry Wynn - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Nov/10

Robbie_Phillips - Nov/10

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Oct/10

aidanb - TR dog - 25/Oct/10

SarahM - Lead RP - 22/Oct/10 with Skygodley

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Amazing!
chris_j_s - Lead RP - 10/Oct/10 with James McCartan

AshWH - Lead β - Oct/10

Very pumpy as there are few knee-bar rests. Massive holds though! (There was probably a lot more knee bars than I found!)
martroberts - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10

Got very lost at the crux. Moved too far left into a big tufa mess and couldnt return - massive lob though!
lanky_bastard - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10

Took rather a lot of rests due to bizarre 'head pump' - all the blood went straight to my head with the exertion, maybe another way of saying I was too gripped. Never mind.
jonnybull - Lead dog - Sep/10 with Cheehan

JayNewfarm - Lead - Sep/10 with KM

MonkeyDawson - Lead - 22/Aug/10 with Liz Brooker

What a route! Not a good choice for warm-up though.
whistler - Lead dog - 13/Jun/10 with Anna

Anna_wells - Lead - Jun/10 with pete

Greenman28 - Lead O/S - May/10

2nd or 3rd go? Fun
jgustafsson - Lead RP - Mar/10 with Jen

second go
TonyB - Lead RP - 05/Nov/09

phil64 - Lead O/S - Nov/09 with rachie

James Marshall - Lead O/S - Nov/09

Gus - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/09

2nd to clean it for Steve, lead it last year, brilliant climb.I am sure the last few bolts have been moved to better places,making it a much better route to lead.
Phill Mitch - 2nd - 20/Oct/09 with reapey

Last day, put the clips in for a warm up and then got it first red point. Easy when you know how.
ANC - Lead RP - 17/Oct/09 with Neil Adams

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Oct/09

Great assortment of hands-off rests
Neil Adams - Lead RP - 16/Oct/09 with Angus

Too pummpy too hot and beezzzzz!
llevick - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/09 with .

Tried this at the end of the day in the full on sunshine, mistake! Got totally wasted getting to the chain. One to go back for though, an excellent climb.
kevg - Lead dog - 12/Oct/09

Tried once and got to the 7th draw on the flash attempt... didnt try again as it was rather draining for the first days climbing and i didnt want to nail myself!
ANC - Lead dog - 11/Oct/09 with Neil Adams

fantastic route seek out the rests though!!
reapey - Lead - Oct/09 with phil

nealh - Oct/09

d_meacher - Lead RP - 15/Sep/09 with Milly Randall

2nd go, one of the best sport climbs i have done.
tweedcore - Lead RP - 15/Sep/09 with Heather Richardson

mux - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/09 with Damian the Canadian

Hidden - Lead RP - Sep/09

Got it first go, after fall on 20th May 09. Really thrilled with this, as felt comfortable and in control. Awesome route.
DavidR - Lead RP - 28/May/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/09

Fell at crux. A vastly better effort than 3 years ago!
DavidR - Lead dog - 20/May/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - Lead β - 20/May/09

2nd go, so close on on-sight, missed a no hands rest
steve_biczyk - Lead RP - May/09 with Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin

marcpontin - Lead RP - May/09 with steve

CharlotteGarden1 - Lead RP - May/09 with James Garden

Sgt. Vest - Lead dog - 03/Apr/09

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead β - 29/Mar/09 with Jon Freeman

La Mont - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/08

Failed on the onsight. Got it 2nd go
Dangerous Dave - Lead RP - 18/Oct/08 with Dan Richardson

draws in
IceBun - Lead β - 18/Oct/08 with Brian McCreadie

Got it 1st go after putting the clips in. Really good climbing.
andyinglis - Lead RP - 09/Oct/08 with Mal, Monica and Jen

o/.s lead after Dean placed clips.I was amazed to find no hands rests on a climb so steep.one of the best climbs in my memory. can't wait to go do it again next year.
Phill Mitch - Lead β - Oct/08 with peter and dean greenwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/08

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Oct/08

Seconded route without a warm-up, but very satisfied to get up it! Made it clean to the tufa pipes, but then needed a few rests to unclip the bolt above the 'rail'. Superb route :) :)
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/08 with Nick & Hazel

Lots of resting on the way up this one. An amazing climb. I'll be back to redpoint some time soon.
givemetea - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/08 with Hannah Heywood

Accidental redpoint! Done over two days. Friday - one bolt-to-bolt pass and one on TR. Sunday - bolt-to-bolt warm up, then went for the lead to link sections - led as far as the first rest, and just felt really good about it, so went for the top half. Very pleased to pull it off :-) Pumpy as f*ck. Seconded by Nick Smith (with no warm up, after claiming to not be very fit at the moment!)
Quiddity - Lead RP - 28/Sep/08 with Nick Smith, Hazel

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

khawk - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/08

great fun but never 7a+
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/08 with goosebump

Craig McMahon - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/08 with Gav

Too pumpy for me. Not my style at all. I doubt I'll be trying it again.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dog - 01/Jun/08 with Johnny Walker

mickersd - Lead RP - Jun/08

marky - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with Sharon

dala - 2008

elmihu - 06/Oct/07 with lucy

Hidden - Lead dnf - Oct/07

Tim Broughtonshaw - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/07 with Gareth Parry

Tim Broughtonshaw - Lead β - 26/Sep/07 with Gareth Parry

Repeat ascent...still feels pumpy if you haven't warmed up.
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/07 with Tom

mrtom - Lead RP - Aug/07 with Steve Golley

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/07

Ramon Marin - Lead β - 06/Apr/07 with Kyle Nystad

Hidden - 2007

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/06

keefe - Lead - 10/Oct/06 with Tansy

Went wrong way and took some good swooping falls, getting very pumped in the process.
Chad123 - Lead dog - Oct/06 with Emily

Went on the right of the upper organ pipe formation. Found this much easier than I expected, got it on the 1st red-point :) Really milked 3 great rest positions.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead RP - 26/Sep/06 with Morgan Woods & Ant Walsham

make a good kneebar at the reachy clip and/or extend it.....can also make a sitting clip at the next bolt.
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 26/Sep/06 with Ant

DavidR - Lead dog - 06/Jun/06 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/06

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Vicky Munn

Lead with the clips in and with Beta from, Ste McClure, Neil Gresham, Ste Golley and Adrian Berry. However the beta wasnt as helpful as you would think. i.e. obvious rest points. comments such as sack the next clip off (which i didnt do :)). Although they probably did assist me by willing me up the route
Tim Broughtonshaw - Lead β - Sep/05 with Ste McClure

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Will Barbour

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/03

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Just my kind of climbing - huge jugs, pockets & tufas at an insane angle! :) Also my first real red-point - took 3 days of effort to get it clean on the Saturday morning, just in time to leave for the airport.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead RP - 14/Sep/02 with Neil Gresham

skygodley - Lead O/S - 31/May/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JackMac, RFWilkie, Hidden, RBonney, Hidden, Ali Burns, AlexBush, Hidden, Ewano, azachariades, david.pearmain, Freak, Hidden, makzimum, jackappleby, Dan_Carroll, Ade7, RockSteady, tweedcore, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 132
hard 7b0 of 70
7b0 of 70
easy 7b8 of 70
hard 7a+3 of 70
7a+33 of 70
easy 7a+2 of 70
hard 7a22 of 70
7a2 of 70
easy 7a0 of 70
3 Stars56 of 62
2 Stars6 of 62
1 Star0 of 62
0 Stars0 of 62
Bag of .....0 of 62
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 205 (0.5%)
Lead179 of 205 (87.3%)
Followed9 of 205 (4.4%)
Toproped6 of 205 (2.9%)
Unknown10 of 205 (4.9%)

'Climbed'28 of 205 (13.7%)
clean O/S70 of 205 (34.1%)
clean β23 of 205 (11.2%)
clean rpt5 of 205 (2.4%)
clean RP37 of 205 (18.0%)
dogged31 of 205 (15.1%)
dnf11 of 205 (5.4%)