DNA*** 7a
[Gilles Mauléon lowering off DNA in the Grande Grotta on Kalymnos, 1 kb]50m, 2 pitches. 1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+ © ROCKFAX
Some now say this is easier than Trella!

Photo: Gilles Mauléon lowering off DNA in the Grande Grotta on Kalymnos © Alan James - UKC and UKH
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 273 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Pete Dangerous - Lead RP - 24/Oct/14 with Marek

GLO - Lead RP - 03/Oct/14

mikedevcole - Lead dog - 30/Sep/14

hms - Lead β - 30/Sep/14

jakk - Lead RP - 18/Sep/14

Dan724 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Dan Ely

Onsighted, very chuffed.
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - Sep/14

Kyuzo - Sep/14

Tried it once 3 years ago but got a retro onsight (of sorts) today boxed by the end even though I found lots of rests.
J1_TOV - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/14

buzby78 - Lead rpt - 12/May/14 with Jess

derico - Lead β - 10/May/14 with Jonny

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/May/14

quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 08/May/14 with Kate

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/May/14

2nd go. First 7a.
Tru - Lead RP - 03/May/14 with Ian Fidderman

First 7a onsight. Quite a fight!
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with Donald Slater, Nick Bryan

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Apr/14

Oliver Tilbury - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14

Pathological_Climber - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14

TomJ - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/14 with Jonny_86

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/14

Laramadness - Lead RP - 24/Apr/14 with RF

Repeat for warm up
marky - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/14 with Sharon

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with jamie sparks

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/14

Laramadness - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14 with RF

Done as a warm up before the crowds arrived as we could see them coming up the hill. As a consequence, I got rather pumped.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Fergus Cuthill

ecstatic to get this, seemed so unattainable 2 years ago but the climbing felt easy and i got 4 hands off rests, perfect route to finish the trip on
pete1993 - Lead RP - 18/Apr/14

Skipped the awkward last clip. More like a series of boulder problems if you take all the rests.
annep11 - Lead β - 17/Apr/14 with Fergus, Jamie Sparkes

Easy if you are used to the angle.
Qisheng Xie - Lead β - 12/Apr/14 with Aaron Clifford

Jugs, glorious jugs.
Aaron.Clifford - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Qisheng Xie

shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with benkelsey

Had tried previous year. got a bit scared at the top and missed a clip for a long banter run-out. good incentive not to stack it.
benkelsey - Lead β - 12/Apr/14 with Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys

Although I'd seen someone on the route the day before I didn't really study the moves. The route feels a lot longer than 20m. There are rests but I didn't seem to have the energy to use them! Brilliant route.
migs493 - Lead β - 08/Apr/14 with RS

Ri - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/14

got to 6th bolt
alexrowe - Lead dnf - 07/Apr/14

Adam Matthews - Lead RP - 07/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Apr/14

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Apr/14

Ri - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/14

Ri - Lead - 04/Apr/14

seanwalsh - Lead - 04/Apr/14

nickb1 - Lead O/S - Apr/14

tom russell - Lead β - Apr/14

Lead the first pitch with draws already placed. Incredible route!
Will Mortimer - Lead - 06/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Oct/13

dave657 - Lead dog - 15/Oct/13 with Alys

tomB - Lead dog - 09/Oct/13 with Jody

One to come back to. Enjoyable route, easier moves than it's neighbouring Aphrodite but much longer so requiring more stamina. Ran out of time for a retry. Guidebook says 7a
rachhunt - Lead dnf - 03/Oct/13

Holds couldn't be bigger, it's just a matter of how many no-hands tests you can find.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Brian McAlinden

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Oct/13

Leiko Miura - Lead - 24/Sep/13 with Peter Dickinson

Peter Dickinson - Lead β - 24/Sep/13 with Leiko Miura

Second go - fun! I never thought I would actually enjoy this route....
Ali - Lead RP - 19/Sep/13 with Quiddity

Hamfunk - Lead RP - 15/Sep/13 with Colin McK, Keith, Stuart C, Andy

Very pumpy. Don't have the stamina... Yet
colinmckay8 - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/13 with Andy, stuc, kdlauder, Ruth Ironside, Hamish

Frances Bensley - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/13

alek - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Laurence Everett

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 04/May/13 with Claudia

claudia Hesleden - Lead RP - 04/May/13

yan hawkins - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with claude

Hidden - Lead RP - May/13

Placing the clips. Perfect end to a great trip.
Brendan - Lead RP - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

adamjeffs - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Had it for Breakfast
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Alan Barnes

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/13 with Elaine Owen

Tom Smart - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/13

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13 with Rob Richardson, Alex Hallam

Cruised till the 7th bolt, messed up the sequence. Definitely would go as an RP. Skip the last bolt and head straight for the rock "branches" by the lower-off. Spectacular route!!!
sarpedon - Lead dog - 06/Apr/13

matiamallia - Lead β - 05/Apr/13 with galerito, pawelgregorczyk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13

One attempt, dropped the last move after 'dithering' on nonrests.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/13 with Remus Knowles

Bargate_Champ - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Kirsty Kerr

tommurrell1 - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Tessa, Richard

miastacey - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Nick Warren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13

womblesi - Lead RP - 31/Mar/13

Well we gave it a go, Tim even placed the first four qd's, sterling effort. Maybe I'd have got further if it hadn't been the first thing after a long lunch, but then maybe not. Inspired by Em's near completeted on site. She came back later and did it in a one'er, magnificent display!
mikehenesy - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/13 with Tim Johns

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Mar/13

rxmac - Lead β - 28/Mar/13

Luxulyan - TR O/S - 27/Mar/13 with Tess Lyons, Tom Murrell

awesome..good holds all the way up and tons of kneebars
galerito - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13

DeanT - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 27/Oct/12 with Ruth Buckberry, Annie Rose Clarke

Flash due to finding approx 4 no-hands rests.
Ahab - Lead β - 27/Oct/12

First indisputable 7a onsight. Bonza. Awesome route too. Had to skip the last clip as bolt was way out of reach.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/12 with Richard Popp

chiverstom - Lead RP - 23/Oct/12 with Sam Keyne

mic_b - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Heidi

cayteye - TR dog - 18/Oct/12 with stephen pearson

cayteye - TR dog - 18/Oct/12 with stephen pearson

2nd go
tommytuffa - Lead RP - 17/Oct/12 with Libby, Felix

Nice warm up, Doh!
3 Names - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

Gus - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Gus Hudgins

First 7a onsight. Suits my style of climbing - knee bar rest every other move. Didn't clip final bolt, moved left instead - its the natural line.
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Dan Kalymnos

Worked on the 12th and 14th, done 4th go. Found ALL the no hand rests. First redpoint. Great climb.
GuitarGenius92 - Lead RP - 17/Sep/12 with Alistair Brash

dan ely - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with em

Surprised to get the flash - first 7a lead ever. Felt soft - no hard moves, just sustained. Creative resting makes things easier.
Jack J Keogan - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Tim Brown

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Lisa

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Jul/12

Where do I start. An experience to remember! Climbed 1.5 times, dogged my way up bolt to bolt, didn't find any moves particularly hard but the last clip is very awkward. Need the stamina of 1,000 stallions to climb this clean. Will probably come back before the holiday is over. Had to climb again on top rope to recover the draws. Finished on the route about 8.30 and walked back down in the pitch black, epic adventure!
R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 14/May/12 with Jay

davidliu - Lead O/S - 11/May/12 with Dave Rose

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/12

Alice.001 - Lead dnf - 04/May/12

innes - Lead O/S - May/12

Fredrik Nyberg - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/12

Got the redpoint after falling off the crux going for the on sight. Should have been more aggressive!
climbinmunkey - Lead RP - 25/Apr/12 with Helen

Bisset - Lead dog - 23/Apr/12 with Phil B

Jay81 - Lead β - 18/Apr/12 with tris

Nearly Onsighted fell off faffing at the last bolt before the anchors, got it first go once i put the clips in.
Jake Young - Lead RP - 17/Apr/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead β - 17/Apr/12 with Kalymnos 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Apr/12

TR to strip draws. retroflash, felt pretty steady this time! :-) but still just as awesome, if not more so.
Quiddity - TR rpt - 14/Apr/12 with Curious Yellow

Brilliant! Got up to last bolt on 2nd attempt but had to rest before clipping it. Really, really want to go back to get it clean!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

pete1993 - Lead - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/12 with Ken Tranter

Hidden - TR dog - 10/Apr/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 10/Apr/12

so close, one clip from the massive rest before the top got my fingers stuck, really really good though
CRiddiford - Lead dog - 08/Apr/12 with Jonny

mwatson - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

dctarrant2000 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/12 with Polly Tarrant

got half way and was mega pumped. lots of rests if you are more creative than me :) stamina test
charlietorrance - Lead dnf - Apr/12 with Meg93

Hidden - Apr/12

tom harrison - Lead - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dog - Apr/12

Aaron Lines - Lead - Apr/12 with jim, Dan

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Mar/12

mike reed - 2012

Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gordon Jenkin

JulesV - Lead O/S - Nov/11

Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/11 with Anais

sam_cox - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11

Julie Carroll - Lead dog - 20/Oct/11 with Ben Aspland, Mark Oz

Awesome
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with karen dalzell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/11

Tufa lovin brilliance
Tris.w - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11 with sash.c

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11

Liam FLeming - 04/Oct/11 with karen dalzell

So good. 3 sit down rests and 4 no hand knee bars on a 20m route. No harder than 7a
mark_wellin - Lead β - Oct/11

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

wilsonmackenzie - Lead β - 01/Sep/11

7a in new guide.
RdC - Lead RP - 01/Sep/11

ChrisCSC89 - Lead β - 01/Sep/11 with Nic, Ross, Wilson

phil.cheeseman - Lead dog - Sep/11 with Tim Emmett

Upside down 5+. brilliant hands off rests whilst upside down. Looks short, feels long. Almost too many holds to choose from.
Twisty - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Byron Buck

david taylor - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

says 7a in the guide book. Got it second go.
Stuart trautS - Lead RP - 24/Jul/11

1st pitch. One word...wow!! Never climber anything like it before. Absolutely over the moon for onsighting this monster genius pump, a real fight.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Kerstin

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Alan Sarhan

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/11

ewen - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Apr/11

jug fest just really steep!!
con321 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

steve.warrington - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with Ash Wolsey-Heard

Billg - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with Will Calvert

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Apr/11

had a few takes as pumped, fell from last QD
Claire S-J - 2nd dnf - 11/Apr/11 with rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Adam Clifford - Lead O/S - Apr/11

azachariades - Solo dnf - Apr/11

Superb, on sight, clips.
Clip gate - Lead - Apr/11

tom rookes - 2011

John Henry Wynn - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Nov/10

Robbie_Phillips - Nov/10

rhoslynfrugtniet - Lead β - 29/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Oct/10

aidanb - TR dog - 25/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Oct/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Amazing!
chris_j_s - Lead RP - 10/Oct/10 with James McCartan

AshWH - Lead β - Oct/10

Very pumpy as there are few knee-bar rests. Massive holds though! (There was probably a lot more knee bars than I found!)
martroberts - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10

Got very lost at the crux. Moved too far left into a big tufa mess and couldnt return - massive lob though!
lanky_bastard - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10

Took rather a lot of rests due to bizarre 'head pump' - all the blood went straight to my head with the exertion, maybe another way of saying I was too gripped. Never mind.
jonnybull - Lead dog - Sep/10 with Cheehan

JayNewfarm - Lead - Sep/10 with KM

MonkeyDawson - Lead - 22/Aug/10 with Liz Brooker

What a route! Not a good choice for warm-up though.
whistler - Lead dog - 13/Jun/10 with Anna

Anna_wells - Lead - Jun/10 with pete

Greenman28 - Lead O/S - May/10

2nd or 3rd go? Fun
jgustafsson - Lead RP - Mar/10 with Jen

second go
TonyB - Lead RP - 05/Nov/09

phil64 - Lead O/S - Nov/09

James Marshall - Lead O/S - Nov/09

Gus - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/09

2nd to clean it for Steve, lead it last year, brilliant climb.I am sure the last few bolts have been moved to better places,making it a much better route to lead.
Phill Mitch - 2nd - 20/Oct/09 with reapey

Last day, put the clips in for a warm up and then got it first red point. Easy when you know how.
ANC - Lead RP - 17/Oct/09 with Neil Adams

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Oct/09

Great assortment of hands-off rests
Neil Adams - Lead RP - 16/Oct/09 with Angus

Too pummpy too hot and beezzzzz!
llevick - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/09 with .

Tried this at the end of the day in the full on sunshine, mistake! Got totally wasted getting to the chain. One to go back for though, an excellent climb.
kevg - Lead dog - 12/Oct/09

Tried once and got to the 7th draw on the flash attempt... didnt try again as it was rather draining for the first days climbing and i didnt want to nail myself!
ANC - Lead dog - 11/Oct/09 with Neil Adams

fantastic route seek out the rests though!!
reapey - Lead - Oct/09 with phil

nealh - Oct/09

d_meacher - Lead RP - 15/Sep/09 with Milly Randall

2nd go, one of the best sport climbs i have done.
tweedcore - Lead RP - 15/Sep/09 with Heather Richardson

mux - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/09 with Damian the Canadian

Hidden - Lead RP - Sep/09

Got it first go, after fall on 20th May 09. Really thrilled with this, as felt comfortable and in control. Awesome route.
DavidR - Lead RP - 28/May/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/09

Fell at crux. A vastly better effort than 3 years ago!
DavidR - Lead dog - 20/May/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - Lead β - 20/May/09

2nd go, so close on on-sight, missed a no hands rest
steve_biczyk - Lead RP - May/09 with Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin

marcpontin - Lead RP - May/09 with steve

CharlotteGarden1 - Lead RP - May/09 with James Garden

Sgt. Vest - Lead dog - 03/Apr/09

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead β - 29/Mar/09 with Jon Freeman

La Mont - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/08

Failed on the onsight. Got it 2nd go
Dangerous Dave - Lead RP - 18/Oct/08 with Dan Richardson

draws in
IceBun - Lead β - 18/Oct/08 with Brian McCreadie

Got it 1st go after putting the clips in. Really good climbing.
andyinglis - Lead RP - 09/Oct/08 with Mal, Monica and Jen

o/.s lead after Dean placed clips.I was amazed to find no hands rests on a climb so steep.one of the best climbs in my memory. can't wait to go do it again next year.
Phill Mitch - Lead β - Oct/08 with peter and dean greenwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/08

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/08

Lots of resting on the way up this one. An amazing climb. I'll be back to redpoint some time soon.
givemetea - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/08 with Hannah Heywood

Accidental redpoint! Done over two days. Friday - one bolt-to-bolt pass and one on TR. Sunday - bolt-to-bolt warm up, then went for the lead to link sections - led as far as the first rest, and just felt really good about it, so went for the top half. Very pleased to pull it off :-) Pumpy as f*ck. Seconded by Nick Smith (with no warm up, after claiming to not be very fit at the moment!)
Quiddity - Lead RP - 28/Sep/08 with Nick Smith, Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

khawk - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/08

great fun but never 7a+
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/08 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/08

Too pumpy for me. Not my style at all. I doubt I'll be trying it again.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dog - 01/Jun/08 with Johnny Walker

mickersd - Lead RP - Jun/08

marky - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with Sharon

dala - 2008

elmihu - 06/Oct/07 with lucy

Hidden - Lead dnf - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Sep/07

Repeat ascent...still feels pumpy if you haven't warmed up.
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/07 with Tom

mrtom - Lead RP - Aug/07 with Steve Golley

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/07

Ramon Marin - Lead β - 06/Apr/07 with Kyle Nystad

Hidden - 2007

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/06

keefe - Lead - 10/Oct/06 with Tansy

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/06 with KM

Went wrong way and took some good swooping falls, getting very pumped in the process.
Chad123 - Lead dog - Oct/06 with Emily

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Sep/06

make a good kneebar at the reachy clip and/or extend it.....can also make a sitting clip at the next bolt.
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 26/Sep/06 with Ant

DavidR - Lead dog - 06/Jun/06 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/06

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Vicky Munn

Hidden - Lead β - Sep/05

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Will Barbour

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/03

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/02

skygodley - Lead O/S - 31/May/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phoebus, surfede, lewiz, Tru, ChrisBrooke, Sonya Mc, cjb1992, Pete Dangerous, adrian perera, whenry, JackMac, RFWilkie, RBonney, AlexBush, Ewano, azachariades, david.pearmain, Freak, makzimum, jackappleby, Dan_Carroll, Ade7, RockSteady, tweedcore

Voting
Total votes cast 177
hard 7b0 of 94
7b0 of 94
easy 7b8 of 94
hard 7a+3 of 94
7a+39 of 94
easy 7a+2 of 94
hard 7a28 of 94
7a10 of 94
easy 7a3 of 94
hard 6c+0 of 94
6c+0 of 94
easy 6c+1 of 94
3 Stars76 of 83
2 Stars7 of 83
1 Star0 of 83
0 Stars0 of 83
Bag of .....0 of 83
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Style of ascent

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Clean O/S
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dogged
dnf