20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+ © Rockfax

FA. Thomas Michailides, Aris Theodoropoulos Nov/2001

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
dobby 200 13/Oct Lead dog
Gus 05/Oct Lead
Natalia Strelkova
bik 05/Oct Lead O/S
hellboundblr 05/Oct Lead dnf

Multiple rests. Gave up before next to last bolt.

Ian Wilkinson
kennythescot 01/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct Lead β
Colin Edwards 18/Sep Lead dog
Sara Edwards
Hidden 18/Sep Lead O/S
wilchivs 18/Sep Lead O/S

Great fun, whatever anyone else says! Third 7-grade route in the Grotta that day so I was a sweaty mess by the time I got to the top! There's a nice back jam on the last stalactite...

keithpeck ?/Sep Lead β
D.Russell 19/May Lead O/S
mshorter 17/May Lead O/S
Dougie, tom
kelliroberts3 12/May Lead β
Hidden 10/May Lead dog
Rgswarren 27/Apr Lead dog
chakrit 26/Apr Lead O/S
dbrooks 24/Apr Lead RP

clean after a few attempts... work out the rests and it's pretty straight forward

shaun, Gareth
Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Apr Lead dog

dogged the draws then top roped with 2 rests. all a bit too steep

shaunnorfolk 20/Apr Lead RP

2nd try

Hidden 15/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 09/Apr Lead dog
Will Mortimer 09/Apr Lead dog
M_Robinson 08/Apr Lead O/S
raymondlinklater 07/Apr Lead RP

So stoked to send!! Milk the rests and it's a fun jug haul!

Ian MK 07/Apr Lead RP
shazza65 04/Apr Lead dnf

2nd session. Not enough beans! Maybe another trip after some serious stamina training!

kev little
Kev Little 04/Apr Lead rpt
henry.jeffreys 01/Apr Lead dog
raymondlinklater 01/Apr Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr -
Richard Kendrick ?/Apr Lead dog
Josie McCann
shazza65 31/Mar Lead dnf

dogged to 7th bolt

kev little
Nick Sherring 16/Mar Lead RP

Mega fun but mega pumpy crazy tufa madness. You don't get that sort of hting in the peaks! Did about 2/3rds on the onsight, worked the rest then got next go - think it would be fairly easy if you were good at finding all the knee bars etc as there are jugs everywhere. Briliant fun.

Rich Stanford, Marc Lloyd, Paul Borland
Juliette Edwards 16/Mar Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Mar Lead dog
MartinPL 25/Dec/14 Lead O/S

go pro mounted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bbVWw0X3ZQ

LucasHarazin 20/Nov/14 Lead β
Julie Carroll 10/Nov/14 Lead RP
Dan Gibson
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
sharklet 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 24/Oct/14 Lead RP
GLO 03/Oct/14 Lead RP
mikedevcole 30/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Sep/14 Lead β
jakk 18/Sep/14 Lead RP
Dan724 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Onsighted, very chuffed.

Kyuzo ?/Sep/14 -
J1_TOV 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Tried it once 3 years ago but got a retro onsight (of sorts) today boxed by the end even though I found lots of rests.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
buzby78 12/May/14 Lead rpt
derico 10/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 09/May/14 2nd dnf
quiffhanger 08/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead rpt
Tru 03/May/14 Lead RP

2nd go. First 7a.

Liam Ingram 02/May/14 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight. Quite a fight!

Donald Slater, Nick Bryan
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead β
Oliver Tilbury 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Pathological_Climber 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
TomJ 30/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Apr/14 Lead dog
Laramadness 24/Apr/14 Lead RP
marky 23/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Repeat for warm up

jamiefoxen 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
jamie sparks
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Laramadness 19/Apr/14 Lead dog
JamieSparkes 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Done as a warm up before the crowds arrived as we could see them coming up the hill. As a consequence, I got rather pumped.

pete1993 18/Apr/14 Lead RP

ecstatic to get this, seemed so unattainable 2 years ago but the climbing felt easy and i got 4 hands off rests, perfect route to finish the trip on

annep11 17/Apr/14 Lead β

Skipped the awkward last clip. More like a series of boulder problems if you take all the rests.

Qisheng Xie 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Easy if you are used to the angle.

Aaron.Clifford 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Jugs, glorious jugs.

shaunhumphreys 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Had tried previous year. got a bit scared at the top and missed a clip for a long banter run-out. good incentive not to stack it.

Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
migs493 08/Apr/14 Lead β

Although I'd seen someone on the route the day before I didn't really study the moves. The route feels a lot longer than 20m. There are rests but I didn't seem to have the energy to use them! Brilliant route.

Ri 08/Apr/14 Lead rpt
alexrowe 07/Apr/14 Lead dnf

got to 6th bolt

Adam Matthews 07/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Apr/14 TR dog
Ri 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Ri 04/Apr/14 Lead
seanwalsh 04/Apr/14 Lead
nickb1 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tom russell ?/Apr/14 Lead β
Will Mortimer 06/Mar/14 Lead

Lead the first pitch with draws already placed. Incredible route!

Hidden 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/14 Lead β
emilyrobyn ?/Mar/14 TR
Hidden 06/Nov/13 Lead β
Hidden 16/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead dog
tomB 09/Oct/13 Lead dog
rachhunt 03/Oct/13 Lead dnf

One to come back to. Enjoyable route, easier moves than it's neighbouring Aphrodite but much longer so requiring more stamina. Ran out of time for a retry. Guidebook says 7a

PeteH 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Holds couldn't be bigger, it's just a matter of how many no-hands tests you can find.

Brian McAlinden
quiffhanger ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Leiko Miura 24/Sep/13 Lead dog
Peter Dickinson
Hidden 24/Sep/13 Lead β
Ali 19/Sep/13 Lead RP

Second go - fun! I never thought I would actually enjoy this route....

Hamfunk 15/Sep/13 Lead RP
colinmckay8 15/Sep/13 2nd dog

Very pumpy. Don't have the stamina... Yet

Frances Bensley 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali Burns ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Izzy Brinsden
alek 12/May/13 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 04/May/13 Lead rpt
claudia Hesleden 04/May/13 Lead RP
yan hawkins 03/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead RP
Brendan 29/Apr/13 Lead RP

Placing the clips. Perfect end to a great trip.

Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
adamjeffs 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Had it for Breakfast

Alan Barnes
Mike Owen 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Elaine Owen
Tom Smart 09/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Tom Livingstone 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rob Richardson, Alex Hallam
sarpedon 06/Apr/13 Lead dog

Cruised till the 7th bolt, messed up the sequence. Definitely would go as an RP. Skip the last bolt and head straight for the rock "branches" by the lower-off. Spectacular route!!!

matiamallia 05/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
benkelsey 03/Apr/13 Lead dnf

One attempt, dropped the last move after 'dithering' on nonrests.

Bargate_Champ 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Kirsty Kerr
tommurrell1 ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Tessa, Richard
miastacey ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Warren
Mat Welsh ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good climb on massive tufa. Don't understand the hype though, Trella is longer, pumpier & better climbing.

Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
womblesi 31/Mar/13 Lead RP
mikehenesy 29/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Well we gave it a go, Tim even placed the first four qd's, sterling effort. Maybe I'd have got further if it hadn't been the first thing after a long lunch, but then maybe not. Inspired by Em's near completeted on site. She came back later and did it in a one'er, magnificent display!

Tim Johns
Hidden 28/Mar/13 Lead β
rxmac 28/Mar/13 Lead β
Luxulyan 27/Mar/13 TR O/S
Tess Lyons, Tom Murrell
galerito 17/Feb/13 Lead RP

awesome..good holds all the way up and tons of kneebars

DeanT ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Laurence Everitt 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
Ahab 27/Oct/12 Lead β

Flash due to finding approx 4 no-hands rests.

Si dH 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S

First indisputable 7a onsight. Bonza. Awesome route too. Had to skip the last clip as bolt was way out of reach.

Richard Popp
chiverstom 23/Oct/12 Lead RP
mic_b 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
cayteye 18/Oct/12 TR dog
stephen pearson
cayteye 18/Oct/12 TR dog
stephen pearson
tommytuffa 17/Oct/12 Lead RP

2nd go

Libby, Felix
3 Names 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Nice warm up, Doh!

Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
Gus 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight. Suits my style of climbing - knee bar rest every other move. Didn't clip final bolt, moved left instead - its the natural line.

Dan Kalymnos
willsm11 21/Sep/12 Lead β
Babsi, Phil Kaiser, Ben Davison
GuitarGenius92 17/Sep/12 Lead RP

Worked on the 12th and 14th, done 4th go. Found ALL the no hand rests. First redpoint. Great climb.

dan ely 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jack J Keogan 04/Sep/12 Lead β

Surprised to get the flash - first 7a lead ever. Felt soft - no hard moves, just sustained. Creative resting makes things easier.

Tim Brown
AlistairB 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead β
R8JimBob88 14/May/12 Lead dog

Where do I start. An experience to remember! Climbed 1.5 times, dogged my way up bolt to bolt, didn't find any moves particularly hard but the last clip is very awkward. Need the stamina of 1,000 stallions to climb this clean. Will probably come back before the holiday is over. Had to climb again on top rope to recover the draws. Finished on the route about 8.30 and walked back down in the pitch black, epic adventure!

davidliu 11/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead O/S
Alice.001 04/May/12 Lead dnf
innes ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Fredrik Nyberg 27/Apr/12 Lead O/S
climbinmunkey 25/Apr/12 Lead RP

Got the redpoint after falling off the crux going for the on sight. Should have been more aggressive!

Hidden 23/Apr/12 Lead dog
Jay81 18/Apr/12 Lead β
Jake Young 17/Apr/12 Lead RP

Nearly Onsighted fell off faffing at the last bolt before the anchors, got it first go once i put the clips in.

Nick1812P 17/Apr/12 Lead β
Kalymnos 2012
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/12 TR rpt
BeccaSnowden 14/Apr/12 Lead dog

Brilliant! Got up to last bolt on 2nd attempt but had to rest before clipping it. Really, really want to go back to get it clean!

pete1993 14/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead dog
Brian Rodgers 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Ken Tranter
Hidden 10/Apr/12 TR dog
Hidden 10/Apr/12 TR dnf
CRiddiford 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

so close, one clip from the massive rest before the top got my fingers stuck, really really good though

mwatson 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
dctarrant2000 03/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Polly Tarrant
charlietorrance ?/Apr/12 Lead dnf

got half way and was mega pumped. lots of rests if you are more creative than me :) stamina test

Hidden ?/Apr/12 -
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead dog
Aaron Lines ?/Apr/12 Lead
jim, Dan
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead dog
mike reed ??/2012 -
Dan Jenkin 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Gordon Jenkin
DavidEvans 06/Nov/11 Lead β
Helen Garrett
JulesV ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
sam_cox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 20/Oct/11 Lead dog
Ben Aspland, Mark Oz
Adam Booth 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S


Liam FLeming 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S
karen dalzell
Hidden 12/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Tris.w 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Tufa lovin brilliance

Hidden 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 04/Oct/11 -
karen dalzell
mark_wellin ?/Oct/11 Lead β

So good. 3 sit down rests and 4 no hand knee bars on a 20m route. No harder than 7a

NDD 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
fildac 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
wilsonmackenzie 01/Sep/11 Lead β
RdC 01/Sep/11 Lead RP

7a in new guide.

ChrisCSC89 01/Sep/11 Lead β
phil.cheeseman ?/Sep/11 Lead dog
Tim Emmett
Twisty ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Upside down 5+. brilliant hands off rests whilst upside down. Looks short, feels long. Almost too many holds to choose from.

Byron Buck
david taylor 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Stuart trautS 24/Jul/11 Lead RP

says 7a in the guide book. Got it second go.

Tomar 27/May/11 Lead O/S

1st pitch. One word...wow!! Never climber anything like it before. Absolutely over the moon for onsighting this monster genius pump, a real fight.

westyb3 18/May/11 Lead O/S
Alan Sarhan
_m.cox_ 18/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead
ewen 28/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead β
con321 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

jug fest just really steep!!

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 20/Apr/11 Lead RP
Ash Wolsey-Heard
Billg 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Will Calvert
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead β
Claire S-J 11/Apr/11 2nd dnf

had a few takes as pumped, fell from last QD

Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Adam Clifford ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
azachariades ?/Apr/11 Solo dnf
Clip gate ?/Apr/11 Lead

Superb, on sight, clips.

tom rookes ??/2011 -
John Henry Wynn 12/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 02/Nov/10 Lead dnf
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
rhoslynfrugtniet 29/Oct/10 Lead β
cjsheps 28/Oct/10 Lead β
aidanb 25/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead RP
dan gibson 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
chris_j_s 10/Oct/10 Lead RP


James McCartan
jamesdyno 10/Oct/10 -
AshWH ?/Oct/10 Lead β
martroberts 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Very pumpy as there are few knee-bar rests. Massive holds though! (There was probably a lot more knee bars than I found!)

lanky_bastard 22/Sep/10 Lead dog

Got very lost at the crux. Moved too far left into a big tufa mess and couldnt return - massive lob though!

jonnybull ?/Sep/10 Lead dog

Took rather a lot of rests due to bizarre 'head pump' - all the blood went straight to my head with the exertion, maybe another way of saying I was too gripped. Never mind.

JayNewfarm ?/Sep/10 Lead
MonkeyDawson 22/Aug/10 Lead
whistler 13/Jun/10 Lead dog

What a route! Not a good choice for warm-up though.

Anna_wells ?/Jun/10 Lead
Greenman28 ?/May/10 Lead O/S
jgustafsson ?/Mar/10 Lead RP

2nd or 3rd go? Fun

TonyB 05/Nov/09 Lead RP

second go

phil64 ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
James Marshall ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Gus 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 20/Oct/09 2nd

2nd to clean it for Steve, lead it last year, brilliant climb.I am sure the last few bolts have been moved to better places,making it a much better route to lead.

ANC 17/Oct/09 Lead RP

Last day, put the clips in for a warm up and then got it first red point. Easy when you know how.

Hidden 16/Oct/09 Lead dog
Neil Adams 16/Oct/09 Lead RP

Great assortment of hands-off rests

llevick 14/Oct/09 2nd dog

Too pummpy too hot and beezzzzz!

kevg 12/Oct/09 Lead dog

Tried this at the end of the day in the full on sunshine, mistake! Got totally wasted getting to the chain. One to go back for though, an excellent climb.

ANC 11/Oct/09 Lead dog

Tried once and got to the 7th draw on the flash attempt... didnt try again as it was rather draining for the first days climbing and i didnt want to nail myself!

reapey ?/Oct/09 Lead

fantastic route seek out the rests though!!

nealh ?/Oct/09 -
d_meacher 15/Sep/09 Lead RP
Milly Randall
tweedcore 15/Sep/09 Lead RP

2nd go, one of the best sport climbs i have done.

Heather Richardson
mux 01/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Damian the Canadian
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
DavidR 28/May/09 Lead RP

Got it first go, after fall on 20th May 09. Really thrilled with this, as felt comfortable and in control. Awesome route.

Hidden 27/May/09 2nd
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
DavidR 20/May/09 Lead dog

Fell at crux. A vastly better effort than 3 years ago!

Hidden 20/May/09 Lead β
steve_biczyk ?/May/09 Lead RP

2nd go, so close on on-sight, missed a no hands rest

Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin
marcpontin ?/May/09 Lead RP
CharlotteGarden1 ?/May/09 Lead RP
James Garden
Sgt. Vest 03/Apr/09 Lead dog
jfreeman 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
simonr 29/Mar/09 Lead β
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 18/Oct/08 Lead RP

Failed on the onsight. Got it 2nd go

Dan Richardson
IceBun 18/Oct/08 Lead β

draws in

Brian McCreadie
andyinglis 09/Oct/08 Lead RP

Got it 1st go after putting the clips in. Really good climbing.

Mal, Monica and Jen
Phill Mitch ?/Oct/08 Lead β

o/.s lead after Dean placed clips.I was amazed to find no hands rests on a climb so steep.one of the best climbs in my memory. can't wait to go do it again next year.

peter and dean greenwood
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Jon Garside ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd dog
givemetea 28/Sep/08 2nd dog

Lots of resting on the way up this one. An amazing climb. I'll be back to redpoint some time soon.

Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
khawk 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

great fun but never 7a+

Hidden 01/Sep/08 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove 01/Jun/08 Lead dog

Too pumpy for me. Not my style at all. I doubt I'll be trying it again.

Johnny Walker
mickersd ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
marky 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead O/S
dala ??/2008 -
elmihu 06/Oct/07 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/07 Lead β
Morgan Woods 20/Sep/07 Lead rpt

Repeat ascent...still feels pumpy if you haven't warmed up.

mrtom ?/Aug/07 Lead RP
Steve Golley
Hidden 28/Jul/07 2nd
Ramon Marin 06/Apr/07 Lead β
Kyle Nystad
Hidden ??/2007 -
Richard Horn 20/Oct/06 Lead O/S
keefe 10/Oct/06 Lead
Steve Crowe 06/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Oct/06 Lead dog

Went wrong way and took some good swooping falls, getting very pumped in the process.

Hidden 26/Sep/06 Lead RP
Morgan Woods 26/Sep/06 Lead RP

make a good kneebar at the reachy clip and/or extend it.....can also make a sitting clip at the next bolt.

DavidR 06/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun/06 2nd
John Southworth ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Vicky Munn
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead β
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Will Barbour
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Sep/02 Lead RP
skygodley 31/May/02 Lead O/S
shark ??/2001 -

year a guess

High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 97
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set