1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+ © Rockfax
FA. Thomas Michailides, Aris Theodoropoulos Nov/2001
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|dobby 200||13/Oct||Lead dog||
Will, Joe Doherty
Multiple rests. Gave up before next to last bolt.
|Colin Edwards||18/Sep||Lead dog||
Great fun, whatever anyone else says! Third 7-grade route in the Grotta that day so I was a sweaty mess by the time I got to the top! There's a nice back jam on the last stalactite...
clean after a few attempts... work out the rests and it's pretty straight forward
|Kipper-Phil Smith||21/Apr||Lead dog||
dogged the draws then top roped with 2 rests. all a bit too steep
|Will Mortimer||09/Apr||Lead dog|
So stoked to send!! Milk the rests and it's a fun jug haul!
|Ian MK||07/Apr||Lead RP|
2nd session. Not enough beans! Maybe another trip after some serious stamina training!
|Kev Little||04/Apr||Lead rpt|
|Richard Kendrick||?/Apr||Lead dog||
dogged to 7th bolt
|Nick Sherring||16/Mar||Lead RP||
Mega fun but mega pumpy crazy tufa madness. You don't get that sort of hting in the peaks! Did about 2/3rds on the onsight, worked the rest then got next go - think it would be fairly easy if you were good at finding all the knee bars etc as there are jugs everywhere. Briliant fun.
|Juliette Edwards||16/Mar||Lead dnf|
go pro mounted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bbVWw0X3ZQ
|Julie Carroll||10/Nov/14||Lead RP||
|Pete Dangerous||24/Oct/14||Lead RP||
Onsighted, very chuffed.
Tried it once 3 years ago but got a retro onsight (of sorts) today boxed by the end even though I found lots of rests.
2nd go. First 7a.
|Liam Ingram||02/May/14||Lead O/S||
First 7a onsight. Quite a fight!
Donald Slater, Nick Bryan
|Oliver Tilbury||30/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
Repeat for warm up
Done as a warm up before the crowds arrived as we could see them coming up the hill. As a consequence, I got rather pumped.
ecstatic to get this, seemed so unattainable 2 years ago but the climbing felt easy and i got 4 hands off rests, perfect route to finish the trip on
Skipped the awkward last clip. More like a series of boulder problems if you take all the rests.
|Qisheng Xie||12/Apr/14||Lead β||
Easy if you are used to the angle.
Jugs, glorious jugs.
Had tried previous year. got a bit scared at the top and missed a clip for a long banter run-out. good incentive not to stack it.
Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
Although I'd seen someone on the route the day before I didn't really study the moves. The route feels a lot longer than 20m. There are rests but I didn't seem to have the energy to use them! Brilliant route.
got to 6th bolt
|Adam Matthews||07/Apr/14||Lead RP|
|tom russell||?/Apr/14||Lead β|
Lead the first pitch with draws already placed. Incredible route!
One to come back to. Enjoyable route, easier moves than it's neighbouring Aphrodite but much longer so requiring more stamina. Ran out of time for a retry. Guidebook says 7a
Holds couldn't be bigger, it's just a matter of how many no-hands tests you can find.
|Leiko Miura||24/Sep/13||Lead dog||
Second go - fun! I never thought I would actually enjoy this route....
Very pumpy. Don't have the stamina... Yet
|Frances Bensley||15/Sep/13||Lead O/S|
|Ali Burns||?/Jun/13||Lead dnf||
|claudia Hesleden||04/May/13||Lead RP|
|yan hawkins||03/May/13||Lead O/S||
Placing the clips. Perfect end to a great trip.
|Sam Simpson||20/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Had it for Breakfast
|Mike Owen||10/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
|Tom Smart||09/Apr/13||Lead dnf|
|Tom Livingstone||08/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Rob Richardson, Alex Hallam
Cruised till the 7th bolt, messed up the sequence. Definitely would go as an RP. Skip the last bolt and head straight for the rock "branches" by the lower-off. Spectacular route!!!
One attempt, dropped the last move after 'dithering' on nonrests.
|Mat Welsh||?/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Good climb on massive tufa. Don't understand the hype though, Trella is longer, pumpier & better climbing.
Well we gave it a go, Tim even placed the first four qd's, sterling effort. Maybe I'd have got further if it hadn't been the first thing after a long lunch, but then maybe not. Inspired by Em's near completeted on site. She came back later and did it in a one'er, magnificent display!
Tess Lyons, Tom Murrell
awesome..good holds all the way up and tons of kneebars
|Laurence Everitt||27/Oct/12||Lead RP|
Flash due to finding approx 4 no-hands rests.
|Si dH||26/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
First indisputable 7a onsight. Bonza. Awesome route too. Had to skip the last clip as bolt was way out of reach.
|3 Names||14/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Nice warm up, Doh!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||29/Sep/12||Lead O/S|
|Derek Ryden||22/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
First 7a onsight. Suits my style of climbing - knee bar rest every other move. Didn't clip final bolt, moved left instead - its the natural line.
Babsi, Phil Kaiser, Ben Davison
Worked on the 12th and 14th, done 4th go. Found ALL the no hand rests. First redpoint. Great climb.
|dan ely||11/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
|Jack J Keogan||04/Sep/12||Lead β||
Surprised to get the flash - first 7a lead ever. Felt soft - no hard moves, just sustained. Creative resting makes things easier.
Where do I start. An experience to remember! Climbed 1.5 times, dogged my way up bolt to bolt, didn't find any moves particularly hard but the last clip is very awkward. Need the stamina of 1,000 stallions to climb this clean. Will probably come back before the holiday is over. Had to climb again on top rope to recover the draws. Finished on the route about 8.30 and walked back down in the pitch black, epic adventure!
|Fredrik Nyberg||27/Apr/12||Lead O/S|
Got the redpoint after falling off the crux going for the on sight. Should have been more aggressive!
|Jake Young||17/Apr/12||Lead RP||
Nearly Onsighted fell off faffing at the last bolt before the anchors, got it first go once i put the clips in.
Brilliant! Got up to last bolt on 2nd attempt but had to rest before clipping it. Really, really want to go back to get it clean!
|Brian Rodgers||12/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
so close, one clip from the massive rest before the top got my fingers stuck, really really good though
got half way and was mega pumped. lots of rests if you are more creative than me :) stamina test
|Dan Jenkin||13/Nov/11||Lead O/S||
|Richard Hall||27/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
|Julie Carroll||20/Oct/11||Lead dog||
Ben Aspland, Mark Oz
|Adam Booth||15/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
|Liam FLeming||12/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Tufa lovin brilliance
So good. 3 sit down rests and 4 no hand knee bars on a 20m route. No harder than 7a
7a in new guide.
Upside down 5+. brilliant hands off rests whilst upside down. Looks short, feels long. Almost too many holds to choose from.
|david taylor||20/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
|Stuart trautS||24/Jul/11||Lead RP||
says 7a in the guide book. Got it second go.
1st pitch. One word...wow!! Never climber anything like it before. Absolutely over the moon for onsighting this monster genius pump, a real fight.
jug fest just really steep!!
|Claire S-J||11/Apr/11||2nd dnf||
had a few takes as pumped, fell from last QD
|Adam Clifford||?/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
Superb, on sight, clips.
|John Henry Wynn||12/Nov/10||Lead O/S|
|dan gibson||17/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
Very pumpy as there are few knee-bar rests. Massive holds though! (There was probably a lot more knee bars than I found!)
Got very lost at the crux. Moved too far left into a big tufa mess and couldnt return - massive lob though!
Took rather a lot of rests due to bizarre 'head pump' - all the blood went straight to my head with the exertion, maybe another way of saying I was too gripped. Never mind.
What a route! Not a good choice for warm-up though.
2nd or 3rd go? Fun
|James Marshall||?/Nov/09||Lead O/S|
2nd to clean it for Steve, lead it last year, brilliant climb.I am sure the last few bolts have been moved to better places,making it a much better route to lead.
Last day, put the clips in for a warm up and then got it first red point. Easy when you know how.
|Neil Adams||16/Oct/09||Lead RP||
Great assortment of hands-off rests
Too pummpy too hot and beezzzzz!
Tried this at the end of the day in the full on sunshine, mistake! Got totally wasted getting to the chain. One to go back for though, an excellent climb.
Tried once and got to the 7th draw on the flash attempt... didnt try again as it was rather draining for the first days climbing and i didnt want to nail myself!
fantastic route seek out the rests though!!
2nd go, one of the best sport climbs i have done.
Damian the Canadian
Got it first go, after fall on 20th May 09. Really thrilled with this, as felt comfortable and in control. Awesome route.
Fell at crux. A vastly better effort than 3 years ago!
2nd go, so close on on-sight, missed a no hands rest
Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin
|Sgt. Vest||03/Apr/09||Lead dog|
|Dangerous Dave||18/Oct/08||Lead RP||
Failed on the onsight. Got it 2nd go
Got it 1st go after putting the clips in. Really good climbing.
Mal, Monica and Jen
|Phill Mitch||?/Oct/08||Lead β||
o/.s lead after Dean placed clips.I was amazed to find no hands rests on a climb so steep.one of the best climbs in my memory. can't wait to go do it again next year.
peter and dean greenwood
|Jon Garside||?/Oct/08||Lead O/S|
Lots of resting on the way up this one. An amazing climb. I'll be back to redpoint some time soon.
great fun but never 7a+
|Dave Musgrove||01/Jun/08||Lead dog||
Too pumpy for me. Not my style at all. I doubt I'll be trying it again.
|Morgan Woods||20/Sep/07||Lead rpt||
Repeat ascent...still feels pumpy if you haven't warmed up.
|Ramon Marin||06/Apr/07||Lead β||
|Richard Horn||20/Oct/06||Lead O/S|
|Steve Crowe||06/Oct/06||Lead O/S||
Went wrong way and took some good swooping falls, getting very pumped in the process.
|Morgan Woods||26/Sep/06||Lead RP||
make a good kneebar at the reachy clip and/or extend it.....can also make a sitting clip at the next bolt.
|John Southworth||?/Oct/05||Lead O/S||
year a guess