Rockfax Description
Climb the brown flowstone stain between One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest and Hanging Out with Halo Jones. The finishing hold is at the very top of the hanging groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the brown flowstone stain between One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest and Hanging Out with Halo Jones. The finishing hold is at the very top of the hanging groove.

FA. Adam Perrett 24/Dec/2010

Ticklists: Tea On The Veranda.

katiep 20/Oct Lead β

Just about got it clean, struggled to get the left hand jug at the top

with Adal Mirza, Joe Premier
Hidden 20/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct TR
hannesD 10/Oct Lead dnf

lead gave up mid bad technique, toprope gave up top due to exhaustion and powermove needed, was 30cm from top QQ

with adam, martin
twill 04/Oct Lead O/S
with Lucy Harold
Hidden ?/Oct Lead dog
HazelMacLean 16/Aug Lead O/S

The bottom part is where you dream of being big and the top is where you are BIG. All the stars!! Such fun moves, first the mono and sidepull and really balancing footwork while you're pulling hard then a fantastically committing finish.

with Heather Mungin
Hidden 16/Aug 2nd dog
BenG32 19/Jul TR dog
with Nat
BenG32 19/Jul TR rpt
with Nat
Paulus122 16/Jul TR β
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Ian Bell 04/Jul Lead dog

1 move wonder at the top. Bottom fine and avoided the mono.

with Tania T
jamespilgrim 27/Jun TR dog

A climb of two halves - one part technical and mono-packed, the other bold and reachy!

How easy 27/Jun Lead
joshchalke 14/Jun Lead dnf
with bradfry
charlielow 08/Jun Lead RP

1st RP.

Remyveness 07/Jun Lead G/U

2nd red point attempt

Doug.Johnson 06/Jun TR O/S
SteveHowie1 06/Jun Lead RP
James12389 05/Jun Lead RP
ChristyCole 25/May Lead O/S
afrosam 23/May Lead O/S
Chickenking 03/May Lead dog
alexspurling 19/Apr Lead dog

Committing crux final moves. Save some bouldering power for it.

Nick_Merriman 16/Apr Lead O/S

Taken 3 years, but I finally did it!

rachelvlc 12/Apr 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr TR
Hidden 04/Apr Lead rpt
kathrynr.bell 01/Apr Lead dnf
Alex Bryant 20/Mar Lead O/S
dantheoptimist 08/Mar Lead dog
Whipinator 08/Mar Lead O/S
bsparky 08/Mar 2nd
Hidden 24/Jan Lead dnf
Jack Wallace ??/2015 Lead dog
twill 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Matt Powell
drifterjoe ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
sam_craddock 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 TR
timjamesmedley ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
netgull 24/Aug/14 TR dnf

Interesting and fingery vertical climb for the first bit. Committing move to reach for the top from a lay back on good jug. Did not get that one. Nice technical climb though.

Patu 24/Aug/14 TR β
DavidRobertson 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Nice fingery low section, fun mono but felt like feet were key. Solid move at the top!

Jlewis01 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
dereke12000 06/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Feeling weak

with Aidan
JUSTADUDE 01/Jul/14 Lead β

That mono-pocket is painful! Awesome dyno finish if you fancy it.

Richard Horn 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 07/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Slipped off first try due to excessive mud. Nailed it the second time. Hardest move is the top

with Marc Perkins
meltdown34 01/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Nice climb, struggled at start till I found another hand hold, then good going from there, could not complete the last move to the top edge, powerful with little for feet

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Robnort 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with ellie Bromage
pc1983 04/May/14 Lead rpt

Once you have the sequence of moves this climb is fine. The first move and the last are the hardest. The last one is made easier by getting the top jugs and putting the right foot high

steve taylor 21/Apr/14 Lead
with Barry Clarke
richy85 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf
pete_naylor 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Trippinjester 16/Mar/14 TR dog
with J.P, Jensoir
mike.rigby 16/Mar/14 -
with Rob Edwards
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Steph
Steph Roberts 16/Feb/14 Lead RP

Quick toprope practise then 1st red point

with Sam
Jenben 11/Jan/14 -
joshchalke 24/Nov/13 Lead dnf
with bradfry
mattc 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Julesthe1st 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Guy
Marcin78 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
dereke12000 29/Jun/13 TR dog

Not ready yet...

patrickc 16/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Sue
Jack93 10/Jun/13 Lead RP
cpt_crunch 10/Jun/13 Lead β
Chris Redding 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Fell first attempt moving from the mono. Missed an undercling hold. Should have gone OS.

Graham Booth 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Mono action! Steady for the grade though,nice top move

spidermonkey09 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Seriously good beta from Lally.

with Matt Lally
rustyfishhook 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf

great pumpy ish route shame about the gash top move to lower off. Si reckons a hold is missing?

Tom Brierley Gore 27/May/13 Lead O/S

One arm lock offs anyone ? :P

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dnf
Robnort 06/May/13 TR dog

2nd attempt at the top got it, finger pull needs work.

with andy burns, paul clauston
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead RP
Anastasia 02/May/13 TR dnf
kingborris 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
ali macphee 06/Apr/13 Lead
Gavdee1 06/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/13 2nd
Eddie Shelbourne 27/Mar/13 Lead
Nick205228 26/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 26/Mar/13 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 26/Mar/13 Lead
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead O/S

Short and sweet, fairly easy for the grade!

with James "The Machine" Salisbury
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
rustaldo 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S

the top needs thuggery. the first part up to the ledge is good though. monotastic!

with Aimee
dobby 200 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
torsok 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
Matt Groom 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Cheet 08/Sep/12 TR dnf

Cedric did very well leading, until the top boulder. I was scared and had to top rope. Small footholds, fun 1.5 finger pocket halfway. We can't get through the top boulder!!!

with Cedric
Twisty 08/Sep/12 -
with Greg Slee
JenDurden 19/Aug/12 TR dog
with Phil Davis
Jobbo 19/Aug/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 10/Aug/12 Lead dnf
David Staples ?/Aug/12 Lead β
spragglerocks 23/Jun/12 TR dnf

Got to the ledge. Top out was evil.

Lumbering Oaf 23/Jun/12 TR dnf

worked out the lower moves ok, but the top moves are nails!

Mr Tumness 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Rob Judd
bradfry 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Last move is the crux. Big haul but there are good holds when you get your right foot up.

philhaigh 24/May/12 Lead RP

Bit fluttery at the top!

Hidden 24/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 TR dog
The Ivanator 12/Apr/12 Lead

Painful move on a mono and a rubbish flowstone crimp on the lower wall and a tricky finish.

with Sean
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
ianjfsutcliffe 02/Apr/12 Lead
with Dave
SamStokes 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 01/Apr/12 TR dog
Nathanie1 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

cheeky one-arm lock off at the top

Stefan_Morris 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jenny
el_monty 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Adshead 18/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Mike Rich
Semtex 18/Mar/12 TR RP
Hidden 18/Mar/12 TR
thelizard 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dorset Climbing Group
samparsons 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
KDhruev 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Tom G
Tom Gale 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt

The lumpy jug left above the mono broke, route still same difficulty (doesn't make the move to the good jug above any harder) Top still the crux IMO.

with Joe, Keiha
pete_naylor ??/2012 TR dog
Ducks Rock 24/Nov/11 -

left 2 quickies in the top if anyone finds them and feels kind enough to return them?

mlg678 08/Oct/11 Lead
pymn nice but dim ?/Oct/11 Lead

First 6b+?

AlexD 25/Sep/11 Lead dog

painful mono on bottom section, awkward to clip lower off.

with Darren
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
GREERISH 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with darryl
gibsond 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Got the bottom section no problem. Made numerous attempts to get the top move done till too tired to pull up!!! Next time.

tscoobydoo 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sparky!!!3 25/Jul/11 Lead β
with Kyle F
Kyle F 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Alex More 24/Jul/11 Lead
with Kyle Fayers
Hidden 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
trevor macalonan 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Craig
drewclimber 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with paul
Ducks Rock 20/Mar/11 TR dog
with Gemma
Dandan82 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 20/Mar/11 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with mike pinney
Marti999 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Ducks Rock ??/2011 -
kateg2009 ??/2011 TR O/S

Hard move at top. Difficult for short people to clip the 2nd last bolt so I top roped.

with Chris Greer
Adam Perrett 24/Dec/10 Lead RP


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WilliamD, dereke12000, Retro Rowan, Hidden
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set