Carlo* E1 5b
[Al Leary on Pitch 1 Carlo, 3 kb]36m, 2 pitches. Start. As for the Brothers. Scramble up easily rightward to belay below the arete of Emily Street.
P1 Up the slabby corner and a short wall to gain and struggle through the obvious bottomless chimney.
The bottomless chimney can be avoided by climbing the wide flake crack on the right. 4c/5a? (FA 30.7.2012 Mike Lewis, Kevin Davies)
P2 From the right hand side of the ledge/block pull up right onto the wall. Continue up past an oak sapling onto a small ledge. Pull across rightward and boldly using an obvious undercut spike gain the corner forming the left hand side of the large overhang. This leads steeply to a large ledge and belay.
*The photo diagram in the Tremadog guide incorrectly shows pitch 1 pulling out left onto the Emily Street arete instead of climbing the bottomless chimney.
Cleaned and re-climbed Oct 2012.

Ticklists: Stared Tremadog E1's.

Photo: Al Leary on Pitch 1 Carlo © Pencarth
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This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

My last stared route at Bwlch y Moch and worth it. The trees in the route are a little annoying though cud do with being cut down. Also the first pitch is no way a scramble going up the chimney looks horrible it is full of brambles. A better variation goes round to the right and up the flake a much cleaner line about hard 4c easy 5a and that's only the first pitch. The second pitch is described fine fun 5b climbing. We did the route in one pitch from the top of the scramble slab which I would highly recommend.
Dale - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with john

Dirty looking line and, aesthetically, more cleaning would help but apart from the moves past a small tree on a ledge the holds eventually used were pretty clean. Interesting climbing. Not clearly described in the new guide but think I did it right.
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Mark Hounslea

pete johnson - Mar/15 with monsieur hibbert, dai

this superb route is now clean, and gives surprisingly steep exposed climbing up the top corner line
kev davies - 30/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DubyaJamesDubya, Katex
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