60m, 2 pitches.
This climb takes the line of the obvious corner crack on the left side of the arete with the prominently overhanging nose near the top. Start from the base of the chimney/gully, traverse left around the arete that forms the eastern wall of the gully. Start below the corner, just left of a square-cut overhang at 4 m.
1) 27 m. Climb the wall to the ledge at 5 m. (crux 1). Climb the corner until the crack in the back of it closes at approx. 15 m. With difficulty reach a large hold on the arete to the right. Swing out onto this and mantle-shelf it (crux 2). Continue up the arete to a ledge. Step back left into corner and up easy ground to belay at back of ledge. Avoid loose flake.
(2) 33 m. Climb the good crack past the nose to exit onto a ledge on the right, just below the top. Belay. Good protection though some large pieces are needed for the top pitch.
Variation [5c]: Stay in corner on first pitch. H Fogg, G Fogg 13/6/04
1) 27 m. Climb the wall to the ledge at 5 m. (crux 1). Climb the corner until the crack in the back of it closes at approx. 15 m. With difficulty reach a large hold on the arete to the right. Swing out onto this and mantle-shelf it (crux 2). Continue up the arete to a ledge. Step back left into corner and up easy ground to belay at back of ledge. Avoid loose flake.
(2) 33 m. Climb the good crack past the nose to exit onto a ledge on the right, just below the top. Belay. Good protection though some large pieces are needed for the top pitch.
Variation [5c]: Stay in corner on first pitch. H Fogg, G Fogg 13/6/04
S. Gallwey, W. Lee Aug/1980.
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