Dragonhead*** E6 6b
20m. A stunning route, amongst the best of its grade in the country! Sustained, well protected on superb rock. It links cracks up the wall left of the groove of 43. Abseil into a small triangular ledge down and left of the larger ledge of 43, below an overhanging arête (the right edge of an impressive sea cave - low tide or low swell required). Climb the steep arête to a break, gain the next break, step left and make hard moves up the crack to a good hidden hold on the right. Move hard left to gain the next crack and follow it with sustained interest to the top break. Finish out right into the notch (stake, block belay well back).
Tim Rankin & Neil Morrison 25/Jul/2006

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.

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Brill route. Good climbing all the way.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with George Ullrich

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