Gully 1* II
[Unknown climbers in Gully 1, 3 kb]90m.

Rockfax Description
90m. The gully left of Viking Buttress is fairly interesting. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Unknown climbers in Gully 1 © Simon Caldwell
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo - 18/Mar/15

Gav Parker - AltLd - 17/Mar/15

TomGB - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Adam Butler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15

Jonny Nick - Solo O/S - 14/Mar/15

Hidden - TR - 14/Mar/15

xusa - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/15 with John jones

Pete Rigby - Solo O/S - 27/Feb/15

macca69 - Lead - 21/Feb/15

Wesley Orvis - AltLd - 21/Feb/15

dashby - AltLd - 17/Feb/15 with Jonathan Hubbard

Hidden - Solo - 15/Feb/15

Hidden - Solo dnf - 14/Feb/15

Led p2
tsl42 - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Jack Hodgson, Matt Cook

Moved together - Good Condition
summerse - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Greg Richards

gladys - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead - 07/Feb/15

nevets1984 - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15

Good conditions.
Davp - Lead - 07/Feb/15

Hidden - Solo - 06/Feb/15

Ciimbed Alpine style tho had to wait friggin ages for 2 older chaps to clear the route, leader spent ages and ages on the last section shouting "I've got nothing" and "I'm in the middle of nowhere". As soon as the second left we headed up behind him then passed them after the crux, they were still messing about on the last snowfield as we headed bak into the cove some 25 mins later!!.. heyho a good route!
doughobbs - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/15 with Chris Cope (Cloggies)

Prof. Outdoors - Lead - 06/Feb/15 with Jeff

A busy day in the gully with many parties out in the superb weather, ground conditions were perfect, the ice pitch was nice and solid, lots of ice around V corner as well.
paulh.0776 - Lead - 06/Feb/15 with Jo HMC

bantamdave - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/15 with Rob Hunt

Hidden - Lead - 01/Feb/15

Pitched the middle section
sjbrook - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/15 with Tom R

Fantastic conditions and great weather. Would be an easy solo.
Tim Bevan - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/15 with James Lam

waiting for snow - 01/Feb/15

Middle and top sections in excellent condition.
net - Solo - 31/Jan/15 with George

Down Swirral then up this - very pleasant!
GPN - Solo - 31/Jan/15 with Annette

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jan/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/15

Tim Harper - Solo - 24/Jan/15 with NTU

Retro Rowan - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/15 with Jack Poyner, Dave Lea, climbingdrummer

ArranLaird - Lead - Jan/15 with Seamus, BRoe

Lee Sheard - Lead - 26/Mar/14 with Brett

henry.jeffreys - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Pete Jarrett, Ross Cooper

Ross.Cooper - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Henry Jeffreys, Pete Jarrett

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

petejarrett - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14

Snow soft but still climbable, the steps we kicked up were easily weight bearing. The cornice at the top is not too big and easily outflanked on a snow rib. There is a reasonable amount of snow in Red tarn at the moment so if it freezes the gullies will come in. The turf is however unfrozen so anything relying on turf will need a more prolonged freeze.
team fat belly - 22/Feb/14 with Jason, Toby

Lee Sheard - Solo rpt - 10/Apr/13

Timo Austino - Solo - 07/Apr/13

dakidunn - Solo - 06/Apr/13 with Ian Hope

IanHope - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13 with mark dunn

Ben lad - 03/Apr/13 with Paddy and Hugo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

good ice and nice hard snow on the upper section, very pleasant
Joby - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/13

RobEdwards - 2nd - 16/Mar/13

petegunn - AltLd - 12/Mar/13 with Will

peachos - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/13 with Graeme, Scott Stanley

scottidog - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/13 with Graeme, Carl Peachey

Goose4 - Solo O/S - 10/Mar/13

dakidunn - Lead - 04/Mar/13

Moved together
Simnel - AltLd - 04/Mar/13 with Mark

Hidden - Solo - 03/Mar/13

carlh - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with michaelb1

Only lead top easy pitch. Well stepped out middle pitches.
Andy27 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Simon Gee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

Martin Rowe - Solo rpt - 26/Feb/13

David Cowley - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/13

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Liz, Bex Leigh

Hidden - Solo - 21/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/13

Ideal conditions today. Lots of snow and ice. The Neve here better than in Gully two.With colder weather forcast this week should be good condition here all week. Enjoyable. Witnessed a mountain rescue as we climbed from Swirrel Edge by two helecopters. Just found out a ten year old boy fell 165 feet.
bantamdave - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Murray

danmoore88 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

Lee Sheard - Solo rpt - 14/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo - 12/Feb/13

NickNixon - Solo O/S - 11/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo - 09/Feb/13

Excellent conditions! Solid neve all the way up. Every axe placement was a delight. Felt secure enough to solo.
skirton - Solo O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Charlie Arnold

Martin Rowe - Solo rpt - 07/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/13

Simnel - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Mark

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Feb/13

dakidunn - AltLd - 02/Feb/13

CKegan - Solo - 02/Feb/13 with neil

Mark D - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Tommy B

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/13

r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/12 with james austrums

fulton333 - Solo - 11/Dec/12

Lead the top snowfield but seconded technical part.
Strachan - 2nd - 09/Dec/12

and down Swirral edge. Lots of snow meant gear was hard to find.
becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Beth Mc, davidclare

and down Striding, wall to wall sunshine and minus 6.5 from the car
Wesley Orvis - AltLd - 02/Dec/12

garbage conditions the crux was bare snow below was unstable
jmoore1111 - 02/Dec/12

Took righthand notch, conditions poor, felt like III
freemanTom - Solo - 02/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/12

Lee Sheard - Solo rpt - 19/Feb/12

themountaintamer - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/12

themountaintamer - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/12

Great conditions. Only led the steepest ice pitch and soloed the rest of the route.
philipstead - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

gaz_jones - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/12

Martin Rowe - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/12 with Paul Carroll

P Carroll - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/12 with Martin Rowe

petegunn - Solo - 02/Feb/12 with Davina

BikeClimbWalk - AltLd - 24/Jan/12 with John J

beth_may - 2nd - 2012 with David Clare, Will Pope

becoming-stranger - Lead - 2012 with Beth Mc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/11

Adamski1986 - AltLd - 18/Dec/11 with Richard Gage

Banked out with fairly soft deep snow. Luckily has a good inch thick layer of ice on the sides to help pull up on. Most of the turf appears to be frozen, although some muddy drainage lines appeared to be still flowing.
tech - Solo - 15/Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Dec/11

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - Dec/11

Very lean, took crampons off for mid section, cornice very small.
IanC - 2nd - 22/Jan/11

David Cowley - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11 with Stew Cowley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10

gordon henderson - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/10 with MRT

danredcar - 18/Dec/10

Rob Rocket - Solo - 15/Dec/10

Hidden - Solo - 13/Dec/10

1st winter climb, fantastic fun
Spidermunkie - AltLd O/S - 02/Dec/10

mbambi - Solo - 01/Dec/10 with brian kirkpatrick

Petarghh - Solo O/S - 29/Nov/10

Jack Loftus - Solo O/S - 29/Nov/10

Justin Tracey - Solo - 28/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Nov/10

petegunn - Lead - 28/Nov/10 with Davina,Matt&Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Nov/10

Lee Sheard - Solo - 27/Nov/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/10

End of the day solo, thin conditions with verglass and such, corner not nicely banked out. Also, turf starting to unfreeze, felt III today.
Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/10 with Conor, HuwGoodal

My first ice climb, from red tarn up to the summit, totally hooked, first time in my life i've been looking forward to winter again :D
tembomavi - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/10

_sllab_ - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/10 with natasha sharp

Hidden - Lead - 11/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/10

Andrew Wilson - Solo - 14/Feb/10

ollyroberts - Solo - 10/Feb/10 with Kyle

markfairbank - Solo O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Martin Kitson

nice route but not very long. only did it as unfortunately had to back off viking.
alan barnes - Lead - 02/Feb/10 with chris hig

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Feb/10

Nice ice pitch, smashing top out.
jimorothy - 2nd - 31/Jan/10 with Rachel Crolla

stimpey - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Pete, Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 31/Jan/10

Booey - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10

Easy conditions
Conan - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/10

petegunn - Solo - 31/Jan/10 with Davina & Steve

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo - 29/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/10

tjmillen - Solo - 23/Jan/10

Peter Sowerby - Solo - 23/Jan/10 with Tim Millen, David Rice, Dorine Tinnion

petegunn - Solo - 21/Jan/10

narrow gully to the left of Viking Butttress, roughly 60m of climbing leading to the summitt slope.
Shaun Spavin - Lead - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead - Jan/10

Shuttsie - 2nd - Jan/10 with Andrea Sales

Rick Ashton - 2010 with James King

Hidden - 2010

thin! Only 10 metres of climbing but just powder on rock and no ice.
Hardonicus - 28/Dec/09

Hidden - Solo - Dec/09

tech - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/09 with Tony

MDowson - AltLd - 14/Feb/09 with sam trefgarne

malc - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Joe Connah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/09

down via stiding edge
carl_123 - AltLd - 09/Feb/09 with andyako321

Andy led frst snowslope to steepening ice pitch. I lead this then Andy ran out top pitch of snowslope to summit where we moved together
snakebite - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/09 with Andy Knight

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/09

good fun ice pitch, with snow above and below
lithos - Solo - 04/Feb/09 with Peri

with guido keith and rob.
pebbles - Solo - 04/Feb/09

Good ice in groove about 2/3 way up
KeithW - Solo - 04/Feb/09 with Guido

Pete Graham - Solo - Feb/09

George Ormerod - Solo O/S - Feb/09

yellow - AltLd - Feb/09

Lee Sheard - Solo - 2009

Tom Phillips - Solo - 15/Dec/08

Trobbo - Solo - 11/Dec/08 with simon fenna

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/08

Hidden - Solo - Dec/08

Hidden - Lead - Dec/08

Dave Latimer - Solo - Dec/08

tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08 with luketheape

mickJ - Lead - 26/Mar/08 with paul r

Soloed in pretty good nick. Decent neve and even a little ice but also some unconsolidated stuff to be careful of. First 30ft or so seemed quite sustained for the grade.
alifin - Solo O/S - 24/Mar/08

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 23/Mar/08

Hidden - Mar/08

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08 with Pete

Did gully 1 again to give Kev an intro to crampons and axes. Descended Swirral then got a call about a fallen climber. Went to the cas site and assisted with treating cas.
Jon Wickham - 2nd β - 12/Jan/08 with Alan and Kev

Hidden - 12/Jan/08

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 11/Jan/08

Alan lead first two pitches, then Sarah and I moved together up the easy finishing slopes with Alan soloing. An avalanche warning the previous day appeared to be inaccurate for the conditions we found. Snow was reasonably bonded, with small cornices evident on the headwall only. A Great day out.
Jon Wickham - 2nd O/S - 06/Jan/08 with Alan and Sarah

Sean Kelly - 2008

last of winter... only ice in lakes i reckon!
Mattyk - Solo O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Tim Kavanagh

Felt hard for the grade. Quite thin conditions, but what ice there was was very solid. Managed to place my one screw and could've placed several.
Will Smith - 2nd O/S - 25/Jan/07 with Jonny

Not 100% sure on year.
MartF - 2nd - 2007 with Ash

Very dodgy thawing ice.
Will Smith - Solo dnf - 10/Apr/06

fhuaran - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Chris Larvin

Hidden - 18/Mar/06

jonnyboy - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/06 with Sharon R

Hidden - Solo - 02/Mar/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with val p

Hidden - 26/Feb/06

First winter route ever, chuffing cold.
ikl minx - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/06 with jonnyboy

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/06

petegunn - Solo - 2006

Hidden - Solo - 08/Mar/05

scott gibson - Solo - Dec/03

Mark A Humphries - Solo O/S - 07/Jan/03

Hidden - 2002

innesmac - 2002

Gman - Lead O/S - Feb/01 with Dave P, Helen

crowberry gully - Solo - 22/Feb/00

Neil Conway - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Solo - 2000

Hidden - Jul/99

BenTiffin - Lead - Dec/97 with Ellen Wolfenden

Hammy - Solo - 15/Jan/90

Mushy conditions.
Steve Crowe - Solo - 15/Jan/88

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/86

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
LJCooper, quarryman, MattHandley, Radioactiveman, crazycaver, mightybobbins, The Mountain Goat, Nicholas Livesey

Total votes cast 108
hard II/III0 of 57
II/III0 of 57
easy II/III23 of 57
hard II12 of 57
II19 of 57
easy II3 of 57
hard I/II0 of 57
I/II0 of 57
easy I/II0 of 57
3 Stars1 of 51
2 Stars19 of 51
1 Star29 of 51
0 Stars2 of 51
Bag of .....0 of 51
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat