80m. One of the most frequently climbed routes in the Lakes. Start about 60m. left of gully 2 below a prominent V Corner. 1) 20m. Climb ice or turfy ledges followed by a slabby groove to belay below the 'V Corner'. 2) 20m. Climb the V Corner. 3) 50m. Easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Very thin ice pitch into V Grove and unconsolodated turf
Lean conditions below the V Corner but a hearty grade III section
Nice icy slab
Pretty bare in places. Some interesting moves on thin ice and rock
|Andrew Lodge||15/Feb||AltLd O/S||
First pitch by far the best and Steve got to lead it but so much better conditions than we were expecting.
a bit warm but plenty of ice
Good Condition - Took the ice fall rather than the corner.
Loads of Ice and good route, but got very confused looking for the "hard second/third" pitch that is shown in many of the photos. Now believe the hard corner pitch is V-corner extended route. Would like to do again without the extended finish.
Dave Richards, PMC
|Dave Richards||07/Feb||Lead O/S||
Confused by some of the pictures on here and the route description. Ended up running out 60m looking for the V groove as it looks in some pictures. Had, I believe already lead through it to close to a harder continuation groove. Sam lead up the very tricky corner groove (not sure on grade but felt harder than III) in lean condition which I think is the extended finish and I lead us into the summit.
|scott quinn||07/Feb||AltLd O/S||
The pitch lengths seem wrong... took the ice fall rather than the corner on top pitch, corner looked thin
Good Ice low down, top corner was very thin and felt very hard and precarious.
Duncan Edgely, Ben Caley
Guide book said 70M left of gully 3 however I'd guess its more like 30 at most, after finding the start Chris lead the first section the at the base of the V I lead, the V was very thin and had had some traffic on previously making it somewhat tricky! bloody right crampon came off as I was setting up the belay, Belayed Chris up then he headed up the summit snow field and belayed my upto the top. Great little route marred only by a bunch of lads on a route to the right (as you look at the route) all giving it the "that was a solid move" and "my grade IV was way harder than Badgers III" bullshit!
Chris Cope (Cloggies)
|joe hallam||05/Feb||AltLd O/S||
good nick! good screws in places and frozen turf all round! brilliant route also.
|Rocket Ronnie||04/Feb||2nd O/S||
My first winter climb in the Lakes. The perfect introduction to grade 3. pitch 1 ideal ice with some bridging 10m. to and ice column belay and old piton. p2 was an 8ft traverse L to start the groove. p3 long top-out pitch with 2 pieces of pro to the cornice. Difficult top out due to unconsolidated snow giving brain freeze in the wind. Happy man. Thanks Diccon.
very enjoyable, thin in sections but turf well frozen
|Simon Bostock||31/Jan||AltLd O/S||
Good condition. 2 pairs. 2hrs
Christopher Lyness, Anthony Smith, Stephen Hull
|Samuel Wainwright||29/Dec/14||Solo O/S|
soloed up to the vcorner which Aaren then lead.
|Timo Austino||07/Apr/13||Solo O/S|
Steve Farndon, John Andrews
|Andrew will wilson||05/Mar/13||Lead|
With Ash Green
|Lee Sheard||27/Feb/13||Lead rpt||
Just completed the ice pitches then abbed off due to time. Ver worthwhile route
Nathan Maxwell, Mark Aymes
Just did ice pitches then abseiled off due to time
John Roe, Nathan Maxwell
Led the first two pitches, easy going beyond that
Rob Edwards, Eddy Tompkins
|Mr. K||17/Feb/13||AltLd O/S||
We climbed a line to the left of the main V corner as that was a bit too thin. Snow was in excellent condition, turf was well frozen and there was a bit of ice around. Quality day out under bluebird skies!
different line this time - up & left to the obvious ice fall and short mixed step. Great day out with blue skies and sunshine
|The Blue Bucket||09/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Good nick lots of ice, and neve
Good solid neve and thin ice
|Martin Rowe||24/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Deep powder snow in some places. Ice in the lower sections. Nothing in crux corner but turf was frozen. A bit of a battle getting up it. Still enjoyed it and weather was good.
|Double Knee Bar||19/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Crux corner was entertaining! Good proper solid turf but rotten ice.
lots of neve, the V groove was almost buried, good conditions
|David Cowley||05/Dec/12||AltLd O/S|
|chris smith||05/Dec/12||Lead O/S||
Snow was mostly windslab on top of powdery snow, but held, ice was ok and the turf was frozen. All in all, a good day in clear weather.
Serious avalanche condtitions and good ice but not much neve. Had to multi pitch abseil from just under the cornice due to it been unnegotiable.
Steve Dunning, Pete Chadwick
More like IV in current conditions, similar to "Two Grooves" but less sustained.
|Pete Rigby||?/Dec/11||Lead O/S||
1st winter climb, no ice on the v corner. felt bloody hard to me!!!!!!!!
Nice climb, pity about the weather!
|Jack Loftus||29/Nov/10||AltLd O/S|
|Mr. K||28/Nov/10||Lead O/S|
Not in brilliant nick but unusual to get a winter route done in November. The pitch lengths both in the guide and here seem way out: with a 60m rope the first two pitches had 5m left; the V-corner had a metre left and the last pitch was 75 metres! Hope the woman who got rescued from below Viking Buttress is OK, a broken leg apparently - http://www.mountainrescue.org.uk/news/2010_077.
|Dave Warburton||26/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
Nice lead from Conor - Weren't sure of line, but ended up in a V groove, with turf and thin verglass and such.
Good ice lower down, possibly bypassed the V corner higher up
matt b, blake
Initial fat ice pitch was quite tricky and very good, inadvertently led the crux as V-corner far too easy. Still, enjoyed route after finally found. It is clear that a lot of people are very confused about where this route is. I think the guidebook's 70m and the 60m here are confusing. It's about 30-40m left of gully 2.
Great conditions - topped out to a magnificent sunset. One of the best days out I've ever had in the hills!
|Lee Sheard||30/Jan/10||AltLd O/S||
line to the right of V corner
foggy and pete
The ever-elusive VC
John Wheeler, Foggy
Led the final snow slope but that dosent really count.
My best day out in the Lakes - conditions were awesome
Clearly, by reading the other user comments, we have gone wrong somwhere. The last corner pitch, although well used had very little ice, wasn't banked up and had bugger all gear after the first 2m. This felt like hard IV/V (not that i've done many!) but was way way harder than any other III i've done. Start 20m left of No. 2 Gully.1st pitch, ice ledges to a ledge under an ice column, 15m. 2 pitch, go up easy snow groove to large stance below a wall, 50m. 3rd pitch, traverse right under wall then up easy groove to below steep corner (crux) with sloping ledge on LH halfway up, stance above, 30m. 4th pitch, easy snow slope to finish. Does this sound like anything anyone else has done?
|Jon Wickham||07/Feb/09||Lead O/S||
Great route in great condition. Started late and topped out at 5pm.
fun and games, great ice, must remember to take the gear when running out 60m looking for a belay! Don't thnk we did the correct start but it was excellent.
Some confusion over exact line!
first proper winter climb!!!!woo hoo
|Mark A Humphries||03/Feb/09||Solo O/S|
Great route, went right, around a large boulder (at top of gully, about 50m from top) and climbed short frozen waterfall.
Great conditions, plenty of well packed snow and hard ice. Very enjoyable, will try to lead a pitch or two on next visit.
|Somerset swede basher||12/Jan/08||AltLd O/S||
|Simon Caldwell||12/Jan/08||AltLd O/S||
I led first 2 guidebook pitches in one. Nice steep ice leading to the first ledge, the next corner was fun too. The V Corner pitch was banked out with big bucket steps, so we moved on to the Extension instead for added interest.
Carmen and Will
|Will Smith||12/Jan/08||2nd rpt||
Greatly improved conditions from the last time I did it. More ice and plenty more snow meant it was banked out and most of the hard moves were covered over.
soloed 1st and last pitches.
Malcolm H-S and Pete
Malcolm and Freddy
|Will Smith||11/Dec/07||AltLd O/S||
Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 was all on ice giving some nice moves. Pitch 2 had a couple of harder mixed moves up a lean corner. 3rd and 4th pitches were really just snow plodding with variable quality of snow. Overall a great route and nice to get something done in the lakes in early december.
|joe larner||?/Jan/07||Lead O/S|
|Martin Haworth||?/Mar/06||Lead O/S||
Jim H & Nice Andy
Pete and Graham