245m, 7 pitches.
A fine mixed route taking the steep ground on the right flank of Diamond Buttress, before crossing Diamond Edge to an independent finish. Start in Diamond Diedre, 20m up from the foot of the buttress at an obvious ramp. The first ascent was made in conditions of frozen turf and powder snow.
1) 45m Climb the left slanting ramp. Just before reaching the buttress crest, climb a steep wall above the ramp. Move right, crossing an awkward step, and continue straight up to a large stance.
2) 25m Continue up and right by short chimneys, staying below the crest of the buttress to belay at the top of a snow field.
3) 25m Move left round the obvious rib. Continue straight up, then make a short traverse right to below an obvious chimney with a large flat chokestone. Climb steeply up to the foot of the chimney to a good belay on the left.
4) 25m From the foot of the chimney, traverse delicately right, then pull steeply upwards through a series of short corners to the buttress crest. Continue up to belay on the ramp of Diamond Edge.
5) 45m Cross the ramp of Diamond Edge and climb an obvious corner to gain the top of the rib on the left of Diamond Edge. Continue up the rib, easily at first, and then on steeper rock. Step left round a nose and then up to a small stance.
6) 40m Climb steeply up above the stance to gain an open corner line leading to easy ground.
7) 40m Climb the easy ground via a short wall to the plateau.
1) 45m Climb the left slanting ramp. Just before reaching the buttress crest, climb a steep wall above the ramp. Move right, crossing an awkward step, and continue straight up to a large stance.
2) 25m Continue up and right by short chimneys, staying below the crest of the buttress to belay at the top of a snow field.
3) 25m Move left round the obvious rib. Continue straight up, then make a short traverse right to below an obvious chimney with a large flat chokestone. Climb steeply up to the foot of the chimney to a good belay on the left.
4) 25m From the foot of the chimney, traverse delicately right, then pull steeply upwards through a series of short corners to the buttress crest. Continue up to belay on the ramp of Diamond Edge.
5) 45m Cross the ramp of Diamond Edge and climb an obvious corner to gain the top of the rib on the left of Diamond Edge. Continue up the rib, easily at first, and then on steeper rock. Step left round a nose and then up to a small stance.
6) 40m Climb steeply up above the stance to gain an open corner line leading to easy ground.
7) 40m Climb the easy ground via a short wall to the plateau.
Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 24/Jan/1998.
Ticklists
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
1 users have logged this
2 users have this on their wishlistPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Fenian Gully
Grade: IV 4 ***
(Beinn Dearg)