The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Mullan, C.Lindley 21/Apr/2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Steve Woollard | 31 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Difficult one to grade, a 4c boulder problem followed by easier well protected climbing so maybe VS overall | βeta? | |
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βeta: Difficult one to grade, a 4c boulder problem followed by easier well protected climbing so maybe VS overall |
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Felix Ottey | 9 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: This has got way easier, the first two pieces of gear never used to be there. The crack was filled with broken rock. Excessive cleaning has changed this route so much. Likely HS or VS now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This has got way easier, the first two pieces of gear never used to be there. The crack was filled with broken rock. Excessive cleaning has changed this route so much. Likely HS or VS now. |
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