|250m, 10 pitches. |
One of the most outrageous lines in the Dolomites, searching out a line of weakness through the huge roofs of Cima Ovest. It is possible to link pitches 1, 2 and 3 as well as 4 and 5 if protection is adequately extended although this is not recommended on first acquaintance. A belay seat is useful for the crux pitch and a spare 80m to 100m rope is necessary to return from the belay at the end of the crux pitch back to its beginning whilst working the crux. The route is almost entirely reliant on pegs up to where it joins the Cassin.
The route starts just left of centre below the main roof.
1) 7a+, 35m. Work your way up the straightforward but bold lower wall, past several spaced pegs, to the roof. Back the pegs up with good cams and make a wild move over the lip to reach good holds. Traverse left for 3m then straight up the following wall to the belay.
2) 6c, 25m. Head up and right of the first belay into a slim groove which is followed to a belay at its end.
3) 6a+, 15m. Go straight up on positive pockets to a belay ledge.
4) 7a, 30m. Head up the vague open groove on positive crimps which trend leftwards to the belay.
5) 7a+, 20m. A powerful pull out left from the belay leads into a steep hanging groove which is followed to the roof.
6) 8b+, 55m. Traverse underneath the roof for several metres then make a hard pull to get established above it. Follow a line of pockets out leftwards in a wild position to hopefully gain a double bolt belay.
7) 7c+, 15m. Pull over a roof above the belay and make a few technical moves left below the next roof to a short wall leading to the next double bolt belay.
8) 7a, 35m. Make a rising traverse leftwards, boldly at first, to join another older route - the Swiss Route.
9) 6c, 35m. Climb direct angling gently right towards the top.
10) 6b, 30m. Climb diagonally rightwards to join the mid-height ledge.
11) III, 25m. Traverse right to join the Cassin. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
A. Huber Mar/2000