45m, 2 pitches. An improved direct version of the original route to give a sustained climb of great character and an airy climax. It has 4 metres of new climbing on the arete.
P1 5c. Climb CCSD and step left onto the tree on CC Direct. Make tenuous moves up the arete ending at good holds and a small wire on the microgranite band. Continue to belay on the huge bollard.
P2 5b. Climb the arete and wall right of the chimney of CCD. Continue up the face with a reachy move onto the headwall in a magnificent position.
Pete Saunders 06/Jun/2011