North Couloir of the East col of the Pelvoux, 3610m.*** D
700m. Climb from the rock on the left onto the ice, the first 300m of ice and the Rimaye provide the main difficulties. Take the left hand branch after 400m, the last 300m is a 50/55 degree snow/ice slope. Often in condition. 4 hours is a good time. Can be combined with the Mettrier to reach the summit. Best approached from a bivvy high on the opposite bank of the glacier noir. Descend the sialouze glacier trending slightly left to meet the normal route of the pelvoux and descend to the Pelvoux hut.
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Bivvied up Glacier Noir. Pitched first 100m until beyond seracs, then moved together to top. Rimaye was short but steep with dinner-plating ice. 4 hours.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Chris Gooder

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