Rockfax Description
8m. Smun indeed! Spring up the wall to a diagonal flake and follow this strenuously rightwards until the crack on the right can be reached for an easier finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List.

Hidden 10/Jun -
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 03/Jun Lead

I'm losing it. Didn't realise I'd done this in '96!

DanChad 03/Jun 2nd O/S
tom bre 03/Jun Lead G/U

Lead clean second go after falling on first attempt, nice moves, great holds.

with Lizzie, Paul Deane
rob 528 ?/Apr -
rob 528 ?/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar 2nd O/S
mdjb 15/Mar -
Paul Hy 13/Nov/14 2nd O/S


with Andy F
SAF 27/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Phil
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
friendzone1234 ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Lukem6 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Kev
yossarian714 05/Jun/14 2nd β
with Nigel Blandford, Carl Smethurst, Laura Johnson
Hidden 03/May/14 -
cem 03/May/14 2nd rpt
CrispsSmiths 03/May/14 Lead
with cem
PeteWilson 29/Apr/14 Solo O/S
with Dave
Joemanglerocks 19/Apr/14 Lead
with Satoshi Kimura
mapperley samurai 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Blake Williams, Michael H, Ben Moss
Blake ??/2014 Lead

I think 1 star is harsh for this - lovely crux, takes a bit of thought and effort, great gear but still got me thinking... there are a couple of bomber jams on the crux which will sort the trad from the sport.

Andrew Abraham 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Ceara
monsteratt 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Green top layback

with Dan Fairbank, Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
mattgrange 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Frozen fingers, just gave up in the end

Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cem 22/Sep/12 2nd rpt
woody8 05/Apr/12 Lead β
Matt Harle 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 26/Feb/12 Lead dog

Green and grim!

with ah
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 19/May/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
TM_Horton 11/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing little climb... like most of the routs pretty much boulder problem with gear

with ash
Laura-lou 02/May/11 Lead dog

Made an absolute hash of this one, beautiful route...just didn't have my head in enough to go for the layback off the flake and ended up trying to do some strange jamming/bridging/udging up and mostly just got pumped out and failed. Fell on a jam =( Bad times.

with chris prescott
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dizz 17/Apr/11 2nd
with David B
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
NB Pixel 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Climbed to crux placing much gear, got scared, downclimbed to ground, eventually finished. Siege style for an 8m route!?

with Mick
Rob Davies ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Solo
michael burrows 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
James B 18/Apr/09 Lead
with Nick
Marvino 24/May/08 Lead

The route is up flakes to the roof, bypassing it on the left into a groove and grassy ledges.

with Rach
rachelwheatcroft 24/May/08 2nd
with Marvino
andi turner 12/Feb/08 Solo O/S
with reg and pixie
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
cem 06/Oct/07 2nd
with David T, Rob Truckle
colin milton 21/Jul/06 Lead
with horace
Monk 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

In the rain

John Lisle ??/2006 -
Chesh 17/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with ScotsPaul
donkster ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with cookie and kev etc
jimshrimp 09/Jul/04 2nd
Gus 16/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
brady 04/May/96 2nd
with John Cameron
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/96 Lead
with Richard Bower
Gordon Stainforth 20/Sep/95 Lead
with John Stainforth, Chris Thorp
nai ??/1992 Lead
tapley 24/Sep/89 Lead
with Ian Avis
Roget ??/1989 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 11/May/77 Solo
Rog Wilko 15/Sep/71 2nd
with Debbie Wilkinson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 9
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set