UKC

Access Banned

Access to this site remains a contentious issue - despite repeated requests to the landowner for an access aggrement for climbers. Following a non-climbing fatality in 2003, the landowner remains concerned with insurance and liability issues and occasionally patrols the site - be prepared for being asked to leave.

Work has begun on the site development.  Gates are in place at both main entrances to Cooks Wood and Bector Wood Quarries.  Security guards prevent climbers, (and others) from entering either Quarry.  The police have been involved when local youth pressed for entry to the pool side.

Climbing therefore is no longer a practical possibility at Holcombe.

18m. New route at Bector Wood Quarry (OS 670478) aka Holcombe West

Grade: HVS 5b, 18m
Quality: 2 Stars
FA: Colin Knowles, Simon Fletcher 16/08/2011

This exciting climb will rapidly become a quarry classic. To the left of the Vicious Eyes/Often Overlooked slab is a wall with, from left to right, two hanging corners and a chimney. This route climbs the middle line. Start behind trees under an overhang with a prominent right-trending flake crack. Climb this (strenuous) until a delicate move can be made onto a sloping ledge. Just left is a hanging groove; gain the groove by a baffling move (for the short), and climb to the base of the open-book corner. Enter the corner by challenging moves and climb excitingly to the top, exiting on the left. From here belay and abseil off the three trees on the left or continue readily to the top with caution.

Colin Knowles, Simon Fletcher 16/Aug/2011.

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