South-South-East Ridge*** PD
[Approaching the snow arete on the Weissmies traverse, 1 kb]From Almageller hut, folllow path to Zwischbergenpass. Turn left and follow the ridge, or drop down on the right after the first top to follow a scree slope or neve patch to below the steeper part of the ridge. The ridge gives fun blocky scrambling on sound rock and leads to a snow dome at just under 4000m. From here a short snow arete leads to the summit of the mountain. 1,200m from Almageller hut.

Photo: Approaching the snow arete on the Weissmies traverse © alastairbegley
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This climb is in 197 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Stayed night before in Almagellerhutte. Start at 6am, summit before 12am. Us and three other groups were the first groups up after 30cm+ of new snow (down to the hut). Got onto rock ridge before snow field. Long and enjoyable scramble. (Francis took lead.) Final snow ridge was just stunning. Returned same way. (I took *lead*.) I was altitude sick on the way down, which slowed us quite a bit. Probably got to Zwischenbergpass around 2-3am.
s.tietz - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Francis Hardy, Heather Rumble

Risked a break in the weather to do this route, so only about 10 people on the mountain. Left Almagellerhutte at 6am just after three other parties. First day up since 30cm new snow. Guided groups kicked steps (thank you!) but joined the ridge early as it was hard work. So, lots more scrambling than usual with snow between rock steps. FH led rock sections on way up. ST got altitude sick on way down. Also snowed a bit. Finished a little over guidebook time (8.5 hours), not far behind guided teams. Came down the same way due to large seracs on the normal route.
heathergotrumbled - 2nd - 17/Aug/15 with FH, ST

Hidden - 13/Aug/15

We took gear but never needed to rope up or assist each other. Quite a long day there and back from Saas-Almagell. Beautiful snowy ridge at the top. Easy scrambling throughout.
OTB - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/15

si_green99 - 12/Aug/15

Good scramble. Came back down normal route
RuthW - 06/Aug/15

Hidden - 03/Aug/15

Hidden - 16/Jul/15

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/15

Robertgiddy - 15/Jul/15

lovely scrambling 4 hours from hut
GOS - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/15 with Elaine Mullan

Hidden - 14/Jul/15

NickBrown - Lead - 13/Jul/15 with Susan

with Adrian Nelhams (ISM)
ian.ross.bnc - Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/15

django - 2015 with John Rowe

Stopped at the Almageller hut, 7hrs to the summit, Elinor's first 4000m peak!
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14 with Elinor Young

FlamehairedFrodo - 2nd - 29/Sep/14 with Kyle Wood

Fresh snow on the ridge made it seem really out-there, but no harder than last time when it was dry. Awesome!
Mr Fuller - AltLd rpt - 16/Sep/14 with Liz Smith

Ewanski - 11/Sep/14 with Barry Speed

Day 1: walk from Saas-Fee to Allmageller hut. Day 2: Summit; descent via the Normal route. We slept at the Weissmies hut. Day 3: walk down to Saas-grund. It was cool to avoid cable cars completely.
Marco Plebani - 29/Aug/14 with Glauco Camenisch

adam clarke - 17/Aug/14 with James Hulme

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/14

Binder - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Toby

Wonderful route. We moved quickly and kept below guidebook time. The final snow arete was superb.
gravity - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with George

Luis SD - 01/Aug/14

SAF - 18/Jul/14

MatthewH - 11/Jul/14

carl_123 - Solo rpt - 06/Jul/14

Hidden - Jul/14

Hidden - 21/Jun/14

Helen.Burgess - 21/Jun/14 with Hal Roberts

Mike Soulby - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with alimortazavi85, Scott Hill

Ali Mortazavi - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Scott, Mike

scott.hill - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Mike Soulby

Second alpine route. Conditions near ideal (some cloud on top). From Almageller hut followed ridge (to UK grade 2 except avoidable slab/notch around UK grade 3) rather than going right onto snow patch, then out and back across two snow aretes - one to a rocky top followed by another to a snowy top beyond that looked higher - then back down ridge to Almageller. Track on each arete switched sides so two sections were foot-width along the very top! Made guidebook time up but not down.
mysterion - 14/Sep/13

Jamiet297 - 05/Sep/13 with Sarah Welsh

Sarah Welsh - 05/Sep/13 with Jamie Trump

Failed due to what I can only put down to altitude. Got up on to the ridge and down the other side but was sick for the next half hour before binning it and returning to the hut.
Alex Parker - 2nd dnf - 04/Sep/13

A grand day out from the Almageller hut to Hoh Saas. Superb conditions.
Becky E - 03/Sep/13 with Graeme Ettle, Mum, Peter Ellis

Hidden - Sep/13

ndraper1 - Solo - Sep/13

Traverse of SSE and SW ridges.
Jon Ellis - AltLd - 20/Aug/13 with Chris Ellis Jr, Chris Ellis, James Ellis, David Ellis

Fantastic scramble, superb weather. A bit busy, but not too bad.
Vanessa Simmons - 16/Aug/13 with Ewen and Brian

Hidden - 13/Aug/13

r055y87 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/13

Hidden - 05/Aug/13

Easy but good.
Hoyes - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Rachel B

Batt - Solo - 01/Aug/13 with James Hoyes

Summit traverse, SSE Ridge ascent, normal route descent
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with Mel, Max

Ed carrigan - Aug/13

stanleynkk - 2nd - Aug/13 with Nicolas Pope, Peter Saunders

gfpowell - 31/Jul/13

hudav - 26/Jul/13

JHolland - 26/Jul/13

carl_123 - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/13

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13

Avinash Aujayeb - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with ales cesen

As part of the traverse. Easy angled snow field and easy scrambling to final snow crest. Had rope on but didn't place any real protection on ridge as not needed. Started from hut at 4am to beat the crowds. 5.5 hours from hut to lift at Hosaas
ralphio - Jul/13

Walked in to the Almagellan Hut the night before: enjoyable scramble to the summit ridge and almost got a view! Descended via the normal route to Hohsass through despicable wet snow: had a bit of a swim on the way down to the top station.
tinker - Jul/13

Simon4 - Solo - Jul/13

With ISM, 5hrs hut to summit, excellent day!
Cheese Monkey - 21/Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

superb route, first to the top from the hut hord 5hrs hut to hosass
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Matt Harris

Gav Parker - 10/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/12

With John Holiday and Jonny Logan
Malpractise - 04/Aug/12 with Jonny Logan

Great day
David Barratt - Solo O/S - Aug/12

cpforbes - Solo O/S - Aug/12

Michael - Aug/12

Hidden - Aug/12

MartinN - 24/Jul/12 with maherp

John HW - Lead - 23/Jul/12 with 2 x Students

wowbagger - 12/Jul/12

alastairbegley - Lead - 29/Jun/12

Alfuller18 - 2012 with Matthew Fuller

Stephen Halliday - AltLd β - 10/Sep/11 with Neil Halliday

cover09 - Sep/11

jwpil - Solo - 25/Aug/11 with Ben

benscarter - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Jack

jfmchivall - Solo - 24/Aug/11 with Andrew Thurston, Ole Kemi, Jamie Lawrence

olekemi - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/11 with John C, Andrew T, Jamie L

Erik_M - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Alistair Black, James Januszewski

omgedraait ivm blessure
ijsbeer - 07/Aug/11

robgixer - Aug/11

With Tim
AdamCB - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/11

James_L88 - 19/Jul/11 with Badger, James Moore

Stephen Halliday - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with John Wilshaw, Finn Curry

Finn Curry - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with Stephen Halliday

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Chris Griffiths, Colin Beechey

hedgehog77 - Jul/11

Adamski1986 - Jul/11 with Kev Murley, Eamon Hanlon, John Walker

moorsy88 - Jun/11 with Badger, James Long

nickhoward - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/10

GermanAlex - Sep/10

dscnly - 2nd - 24/Aug/10 with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide

sj87 - 13/Aug/10

dkd - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Al

Dirty Knees - 2nd - Aug/10

t8t9t8 - 22/Jul/10

As part of AML assessment. Tanya Noakes and Percy
John HW - AltLd - 21/Jul/10

Simon Baker - 20/Jul/10

Kirill - 16/Jul/10

Julian Prieto - 12/Jul/10 with Alan Turner, Tom Thorne, Ian Clifford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10

cliffy - 12/Jul/10 with Tom Thorne, Alan Turner, Julian Prieto

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10

Brilliant mountain day.
jonesieboy - Jul/10

Jon Pilling - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Jason Balman

JRSB1991 - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/10

monkey1 - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09

tractorbachcoch - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa

Great route.
Mr Fuller - 2nd - 07/Sep/09 with Ally, Joe Barker

riven - 07/Sep/09 with Matt Fuller

Lady T - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan

My first Alpine climb proper, and what a great start! Steady ascents on the snow slopes, moved well together on the rock, rewarded with an early and relatively uncrowded summit. Beautiful descent, across my first glacier and first experience of snow bridges. Fabulous!
kitkat78 - 13/Aug/09 with SteveM

SteveM - Lead - 13/Aug/09 with Kat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09

One of my favourite mountain days ever, must be the best PD route in the area? Picturesque hut climb to the Almageller Hut (no gondola). The climb to the Weissmies has a fun little snow slope then a ridge climb on excellent rock with short pitches of II+, followed by an airy snow ridge and glacier descent. I highly recommend finishing the day by riding a monster trotti scooter to Saas Grund from the mid gondola station, 11KM of downhill fun!
Poco Loco - Lead - 06/Aug/09 with Guy Pomeroy and Sonica Rua

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/09

Bex_M - 29/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/09

First Alpine Route
Matt Bennett - 27/Jul/09 with Andrew Moore, Keith Lambley

6.5 hrs from Almageller Hutte - summit 32 deg Walk to pass neve snow field Scramble up ridge - narrow snow arete to summit return same way
Warren Earle - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Nev and Nick

Set off from Almageller Hut at 3:50am, summitted at 9am and back at the Hohsaas lift by 11am. Cracking route and a great day (although VERY windy on the descent).
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 25/Jul/09

Brilliant views but scary descent under the seracs. Personally wouldn't have roped up until the final snow arete to the summit but done with a big group so rope used.
Fiona Reid - 21/Jul/09 with Anne, Mike, Tim, Martin

Mike-W-99 - 21/Jul/09 with EMC, Fiona

martinh13 - 21/Jul/09 with Fiona R

lauramfletcher - 11/Jul/09

WillCass - Lead - 10/Jul/09

Sianny - Lead - 10/Jul/09

ian2707 - 2nd - Jul/09

Hidden - Jul/09

good fun!
peterd - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/08

Set off from the Almageller hut about 5.45am, reached the summit around 10am. Good conditions on the rocky ridge which was climbed solo until the final snow crest to the summit. Roped up with John for the final snow crest climb to the summit and the glacial decent down the North-West flank and South-West ridge to the Hohsaas lift. Decent took a couple of hours. Fantastic day with perfect conditions.
markfairbank - Solo - 02/Sep/08 with John Birtill

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/08

Mountain Llama - AltLd - 02/Sep/08 with Paul S

Jimmy O - Aug/08 with Matt Down

Chris Plewa - 2nd - Aug/08

Great day, temperature inversions in the adjacent valley gave some very atmospheric climbing. Don't take the snow slope all the way up though, rock quality was loose and chossy until moving left on the true ridge.
rich_greeny - 28/Jul/08 with Phil Johnson, Paul Dewey

Graeme Hammond - 28/Jul/08 with LSMC members

Neilfrherts - 10/Jul/08 with Sean

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Jul/08

Hidden - 01/Jul/08

abbeywall - 01/Jul/08 with K

Dave Latimer - AltLd - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/07

turned into a mini epic!
blaza1 - AltLd - Aug/07 with lee sears, david baynes, mac

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

furry - 27/Jul/07 with Caz

Lovely day, start at 3.30, summit 11. Back down same route.
phez - AltLd β - 19/Jul/07 with Kade Spears

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/07

cearbhalld - AltLd - 12/Jul/07

keith hal - 2nd - 12/Jul/07 with Martin Moran

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07

with CAS.
milkyjoe - 08/Jul/07

Chris L Hill - Jul/07 with Mark Harrison, Stuart Shaw, Ed Cheadle, Simon Pearce

MoWalker3 - 11/Aug/06

Jim Brooke - Aug/06 with Juan

Hidden - 2nd β - 11/Jul/06

With ISM
FrJ - 07/Jul/06

rob k - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with C Amis

Hidden - 02/Sep/05

Simon Allcock - 06/Aug/05 with nick

The Ivanator - Aug/05

lberry - Aug/05

industrialiceman - AltLd - 25/Jul/05

DavPk - 18/Jul/05 with Catherine Pearks

Feeling bold - 2nd - 07/Jul/05 with Mike (UK), Jamie, John Bracey

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Done on Swiss National Day, so quite a party in progress in the sumnmit.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 01/Aug/04 with James

agagsgrot - Aug/04 with Chris, Thomas

Hidden - 28/Jul/04

in descent, great glissade!
Iain Thow - Solo - 08/Jul/04

Hidden - Aug/02

We had no glacier to cross so we roped up just before the summit ridge. 4 1/2 hrs to the summit 3 hrs in decent.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/02 with George Manley, Neil Champion, Steve (Magdalene)

Hidden - Solo - 12/Aug/00

James W - Aug/00 with john sanday

fizzy_elephant - Aug/99 with Roger

First 4000m peak and first real trip to the Alps climbed in 4 hrs from the hut.
Nigel Bond - Solo - 14/Aug/74 with Chas,Murry,Rodger & others, Dave Jolliffe

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Richard Alderton, Mayaculpa, punj, CM1992, alexanderjwatts, Steve33, menJop

Total votes cast 29
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