Stayed night before in Almagellerhutte. Start at 6am, summit before 12am. Us and three other groups were the first groups up after 30cm+ of new snow (down to the hut). Got onto rock ridge before snow field. Long and enjoyable scramble. (Francis took lead.) Final snow ridge was just stunning. Returned same way. (I took *lead*.) I was altitude sick on the way down, which slowed us quite a bit. Probably got to Zwischenbergpass around 2-3am.
s.tietz - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Francis Hardy, Heather Rumble
Risked a break in the weather to do this route, so only about 10 people on the mountain.
Left Almagellerhutte at 6am just after three other parties. First day up since 30cm new snow. Guided groups kicked steps (thank you!) but joined the ridge early as it was hard work. So, lots more scrambling than usual with snow between rock steps.
FH led rock sections on way up. ST got altitude sick on way down. Also snowed a bit.
Finished a little over guidebook time (8.5 hours), not far behind guided teams. Came down the same way due to large seracs on the normal route.
heathergotrumbled - 2nd - 17/Aug/15 with FH, ST
Hidden - 13/Aug/15
We took gear but never needed to rope up or assist each other. Quite a long day there and back from Saas-Almagell. Beautiful snowy ridge at the top. Easy scrambling throughout.
OTB - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/15
si_green99 - 12/Aug/15
Good scramble. Came back down normal route
RuthW - 06/Aug/15
Hidden - 03/Aug/15
Hidden - 16/Jul/15
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/15
Robertgiddy - 15/Jul/15
lovely scrambling 4 hours from hut
GOS - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/15 with Elaine Mullan
Hidden - 14/Jul/15
NickBrown - Lead - 13/Jul/15 with Susan
with Adrian Nelhams (ISM)
ian.ross.bnc - Jul/15
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/15
django - 2015 with John Rowe
Stopped at the Almageller hut, 7hrs to the summit, Elinor's first 4000m peak!
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14 with Elinor Young
FlamehairedFrodo - 2nd - 29/Sep/14 with Kyle Wood
Fresh snow on the ridge made it seem really out-there, but no harder than last time when it was dry. Awesome!
Mr Fuller - AltLd rpt - 16/Sep/14 with Liz Smith
Ewanski - 11/Sep/14 with Barry Speed
Day 1: walk from Saas-Fee to Allmageller hut. Day 2: Summit; descent via the Normal route. We slept at the Weissmies hut. Day 3: walk down to Saas-grund. It was cool to avoid cable cars completely.
Marco Plebani - 29/Aug/14 with Glauco Camenisch
adam clarke - 17/Aug/14 with James Hulme
Hidden - Lead β - 17/Aug/14
Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/14
Binder - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Toby
Wonderful route. We moved quickly and kept below guidebook time. The final snow arete was superb.
gravity - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with George
Luis SD - 01/Aug/14
SAF - 18/Jul/14
MatthewH - 11/Jul/14
carl_123 - Solo rpt - 06/Jul/14
Hidden - Jul/14
Hidden - 21/Jun/14
Helen.Burgess - 21/Jun/14 with Hal Roberts
Mike Soulby - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with alimortazavi85, Scott Hill
Ali Mortazavi - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Scott, Mike
scott.hill - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Mike Soulby
Second alpine route. Conditions near ideal (some cloud on top). From Almageller hut followed ridge (to UK grade 2 except avoidable slab/notch around UK grade 3) rather than going right onto snow patch, then out and back across two snow aretes - one to a rocky top followed by another to a snowy top beyond that looked higher - then back down ridge to Almageller. Track on each arete switched sides so two sections were foot-width along the very top! Made guidebook time up but not down.
mysterion - 14/Sep/13
Jamiet297 - 05/Sep/13 with Sarah Welsh
Sarah Welsh - 05/Sep/13 with Jamie Trump
Failed due to what I can only put down to altitude. Got up on to the ridge and down the other side but was sick for the next half hour before binning it and returning to the hut.
Alex Parker - 2nd dnf - 04/Sep/13
A grand day out from the Almageller hut to Hoh Saas. Superb conditions.
Becky E - 03/Sep/13 with Graeme Ettle, Mum, Peter Ellis
Hidden - Sep/13
ndraper1 - Solo - Sep/13
Traverse of SSE and SW ridges.
Jon Ellis - AltLd - 20/Aug/13 with Chris Ellis Jr, Chris Ellis, James Ellis, David Ellis
Fantastic scramble, superb weather. A bit busy, but not too bad.
Vanessa Simmons - 16/Aug/13 with Ewen and Brian
Hidden - 13/Aug/13
r055y87 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13
Hidden - 12/Aug/13
Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/13
Hidden - 05/Aug/13
Easy but good.
Hoyes - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Rachel B
Batt - Solo - 01/Aug/13 with James Hoyes
Summit traverse, SSE Ridge ascent, normal route descent
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with Mel, Max
Ed carrigan - Aug/13
stanleynkk - 2nd - Aug/13 with Nicolas Pope, Peter Saunders
gfpowell - 31/Jul/13
hudav - 26/Jul/13
JHolland - 26/Jul/13
carl_123 - 16/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/13
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13
Avinash Aujayeb - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with ales cesen
As part of the traverse. Easy angled snow field and easy scrambling to final snow crest. Had rope on but didn't place any real protection on ridge as not needed. Started from hut at 4am to beat the crowds. 5.5 hours from hut to lift at Hosaas
ralphio - Jul/13
Walked in to the Almagellan Hut the night before: enjoyable scramble to the summit ridge and almost got a view! Descended via the normal route to Hohsass through despicable wet snow: had a bit of a swim on the way down to the top station.
tinker - Jul/13
Simon4 - Solo - Jul/13
With ISM, 5hrs hut to summit, excellent day!
Cheese Monkey - 21/Jun/13
Hidden - 2013
superb route, first to the top from the hut hord 5hrs hut to hosass
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Matt Harris
Gav Parker - 10/Sep/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/12
With John Holiday and Jonny Logan
Malpractise - 04/Aug/12 with Jonny Logan
David Barratt - Solo O/S - Aug/12
cpforbes - Solo O/S - Aug/12
Michael - Aug/12
Hidden - Aug/12
MartinN - 24/Jul/12 with maherp
John HW - Lead - 23/Jul/12 with 2 x Students
wowbagger - 12/Jul/12
alastairbegley - Lead - 29/Jun/12
Alfuller18 - 2012 with Matthew Fuller
Stephen Halliday - AltLd β - 10/Sep/11 with Neil Halliday
cover09 - Sep/11
jwpil - Solo - 25/Aug/11 with Ben
benscarter - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Jack
jfmchivall - Solo - 24/Aug/11 with Andrew Thurston, Ole Kemi, Jamie Lawrence
olekemi - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/11 with John C, Andrew T, Jamie L
Erik_M - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Alistair Black, James Januszewski
omgedraait ivm blessure
ijsbeer - 07/Aug/11
robgixer - Aug/11
AdamCB - Aug/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/11
James_L88 - 19/Jul/11 with Badger, James Moore
Stephen Halliday - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with John Wilshaw, Finn Curry
Finn Curry - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with Stephen Halliday
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Chris Griffiths, Colin Beechey
hedgehog77 - Jul/11
Adamski1986 - Jul/11 with Kev Murley, Eamon Hanlon, John Walker
moorsy88 - Jun/11 with Badger, James Long
nickhoward - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/10
GermanAlex - Sep/10
dscnly - 2nd - 24/Aug/10 with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide
sj87 - 13/Aug/10
dkd - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Al
Dirty Knees - 2nd - Aug/10
t8t9t8 - 22/Jul/10
As part of AML assessment. Tanya Noakes and Percy
John HW - AltLd - 21/Jul/10
Simon Baker - 20/Jul/10
Kirill - 16/Jul/10
Julian Prieto - 12/Jul/10 with Alan Turner, Tom Thorne, Ian Clifford
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10
cliffy - 12/Jul/10 with Tom Thorne, Alan Turner, Julian Prieto
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10
Brilliant mountain day.
jonesieboy - Jul/10
Jon Pilling - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Jason Balman
JRSB1991 - Lead O/S - Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/10
monkey1 - 19/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09
tractorbachcoch - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa
Mr Fuller - 2nd - 07/Sep/09 with Ally, Joe Barker
riven - 07/Sep/09 with Matt Fuller
Lady T - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan
My first Alpine climb proper, and what a great start! Steady ascents on the snow slopes, moved well together on the rock, rewarded with an early and relatively uncrowded summit. Beautiful descent, across my first glacier and first experience of snow bridges. Fabulous!
kitkat78 - 13/Aug/09 with SteveM
SteveM - Lead - 13/Aug/09 with Kat
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09
One of my favourite mountain days ever, must be the best PD route in the area? Picturesque hut climb to the Almageller Hut (no gondola). The climb to the Weissmies has a fun little snow slope then a ridge climb on excellent rock with short pitches of II+, followed by an airy snow ridge and glacier descent. I highly recommend finishing the day by riding a monster trotti scooter to Saas Grund from the mid gondola station, 11KM of downhill fun!
Poco Loco - Lead - 06/Aug/09 with Guy Pomeroy and Sonica Rua
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/09
Bex_M - 29/Jul/09
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/09
First Alpine Route
Matt Bennett - 27/Jul/09 with Andrew Moore, Keith Lambley
6.5 hrs from Almageller Hutte - summit 32 deg
Walk to pass neve snow field Scramble up ridge - narrow snow arete to summit return same way
Warren Earle - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Nev and Nick
Set off from Almageller Hut at 3:50am, summitted at 9am and back at the Hohsaas lift by 11am. Cracking route and a great day (although VERY windy on the descent).
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Holly Adamthwaite
Hidden - 25/Jul/09
Brilliant views but scary descent under the seracs. Personally wouldn't have roped up until the final snow arete to the summit but done with a big group so rope used.
Fiona Reid - 21/Jul/09 with Anne, Mike, Tim, Martin
Mike-W-99 - 21/Jul/09 with EMC, Fiona
martinh13 - 21/Jul/09 with Fiona R
lauramfletcher - 11/Jul/09
WillCass - Lead - 10/Jul/09
Sianny - Lead - 10/Jul/09
ian2707 - 2nd - Jul/09
Hidden - Jul/09
peterd - 2009
Hidden - 2009
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/08
Set off from the Almageller hut about 5.45am, reached the summit around 10am. Good conditions on the rocky ridge which was climbed solo until the final snow crest to the summit. Roped up with John for the final snow crest climb to the summit and the glacial decent down the North-West flank and South-West ridge to the Hohsaas lift. Decent took a couple of hours. Fantastic day with perfect conditions.
markfairbank - Solo - 02/Sep/08 with John Birtill
Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/08
Mountain Llama - AltLd - 02/Sep/08 with Paul S
Jimmy O - Aug/08 with Matt Down
Chris Plewa - 2nd - Aug/08
Great day, temperature inversions in the adjacent valley gave some very atmospheric climbing. Don't take the snow slope all the way up though, rock quality was loose and chossy until moving left on the true ridge.
rich_greeny - 28/Jul/08 with Phil Johnson, Paul Dewey
Graeme Hammond - 28/Jul/08 with LSMC members
Neilfrherts - 10/Jul/08 with Sean
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Jul/08
Hidden - 01/Jul/08
abbeywall - 01/Jul/08 with K
Dave Latimer - AltLd - Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/08
Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/07
turned into a mini epic!
blaza1 - AltLd - Aug/07 with lee sears, david baynes, mac
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07
furry - 27/Jul/07 with Caz
Lovely day, start at 3.30, summit 11. Back down same route.
phez - AltLd β - 19/Jul/07 with Kade Spears
Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/07
cearbhalld - AltLd - 12/Jul/07
keith hal - 2nd - 12/Jul/07 with Martin Moran
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07
milkyjoe - 08/Jul/07
Chris L Hill - Jul/07 with Mark Harrison, Stuart Shaw, Ed Cheadle, Simon Pearce
MoWalker3 - 11/Aug/06
Jim Brooke - Aug/06 with Juan
Hidden - 2nd β - 11/Jul/06
FrJ - 07/Jul/06
rob k - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with C Amis
Hidden - 02/Sep/05
Simon Allcock - 06/Aug/05 with nick
The Ivanator - Aug/05
lberry - Aug/05
industrialiceman - AltLd - 25/Jul/05
DavPk - 18/Jul/05 with Catherine Pearks
Feeling bold - 2nd - 07/Jul/05 with Mike (UK), Jamie, John Bracey
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/May/05
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005
Done on Swiss National Day, so quite a party in progress in the sumnmit.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 01/Aug/04 with James
agagsgrot - Aug/04 with Chris, Thomas
Hidden - 28/Jul/04
in descent, great glissade!
Iain Thow - Solo - 08/Jul/04
Hidden - Aug/02
We had no glacier to cross so we roped up just before the summit ridge. 4 1/2 hrs to the summit 3 hrs in decent.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/02 with George Manley, Neil Champion, Steve (Magdalene)
Hidden - Solo - 12/Aug/00
James W - Aug/00 with john sanday
fizzy_elephant - Aug/99 with Roger
First 4000m peak and first real trip to the Alps climbed in 4 hrs from the hut.
Nigel Bond - Solo - 14/Aug/74 with Chas,Murry,Rodger & others, Dave Jolliffe